Nachoooo
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Posts posted by Nachoooo
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If you want the Brembo name you can try price up a set from BNT, though these will be 'aftermarket'. I got a set of replacement Brembo branded front rotors on a standard non-Brembo caliper BP GT and they were comparative cost to other aftermarket options. I don't know what goes on behind the manufacturing scenes but they come in a Brembo box and all so...
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I personally don't have the equipment to quote logs and prove improvements with data, however; from reading this thread I believe I've rectified a fair few niggles I've found.
Mainly hesitations when accelerating, not smoothly pulling through the powerband and minor missfires. Fuel has exclusively been NPD 100+ or BP98 where 100 is unavailable
Firstly, I sealed the cracked intake box the day I picked up the car. With regular maintenance I've been cleaning the throttle plate for carbon build up.
After your suggestion, I checked all header/cat heat shields for security and found a couple brackets loose and vibrating. New bolts and/or nuts secured those. Small improvement to engine running seemingly felt.
More recently I replaced all spark plugs with NGK ILFR6B plugs. When doing this I came across 2 further issues. Removing the headers to jack up each side of the engine revealed a loose header nut causing an exhaust leak, couldn't hear it at all though. Cleaned up all surfaces and seems to be okay
Secondly, someone previously has broken some of the locking tabs off the coil wiring plugs. Their solution was to fill the surrounding area of the plug with RTV, now rendering the plug useless. This also seems to be causing the plug to not be seated 100% of the way home on the coil. Whether this is causing irregular coil performance I don't know...
After fixing the exhaust leak, new plugs and an ECU reset the engine performance feels like it is improving further. Again I don't have the data to prove it, though it certainly pulls harder and smoother, more consistently as well
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On 23/12/2020 at 4:28 PM, BMCracer said:
Was in Auckland, in Western Australia now ( same car, took it with me to Oz ) .... but wow 100 at the pump would be great, and yes interesting to see the affect. Don't think I can get 100 over here, but surely someone in NZ can run 100 in their 3.0 for a bit and see if it makes a difference? I know I'm not the only one with this problem in a 3.0
I have a 6MT 3.0 and run NPD 100
Working through various hesitations and following this thread with interest haha -
5 hours ago, Shibe said:
Suppose the difference being whether if its a Japanese import not. Unsure about newer model JDM imports if companies started tuning them for 91? I'm guessing 'NZ New' and market equivalents come factory tuned for 91 to accommodate for the s****y fuel 😁
NZDM cars predominately come as AUS spec models and when indicated, are tuned to run adequately on 91. Even current gen NZ New Mazda 2.5 Turbo engines are spec'd to run 91... 😕
Interestingly, their latest SkyActiv X engine requires minimum 95 octane or higher for the 'homogenous' or compression ignition petrol engine... -
2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Passenger side factory mount was about a third torn so figured that was the issue but still getting a decent clunk that now feels more clunky and less sloppy. Its most noticeable when bumping on/off throttle when cruising so next thought is diff bushes, if not those then I'm a little stumped.
Had a look at the pitch stop mount? -
Let's just say the engine wasn't too happy after the oil filler cap was mistaken for washer fluid cap...
She's seized solid now... 😬
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Any guesses for what happened here? (Not mine, ha)
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14 hours ago, gotasuby said:
These are avls solenoids not avcs solenoids. Just be careful
Yeah, got there in the end haha, see above post. I've edited the first post to make it clearer -
@Andy_Mac
My bad, I got confused between the AVLS and AVCS solenoids. The solenoids for AVCS (timing) appear to indeed be interchangeable. Partsouq only shows one part number with a quantity req'd of 2
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Same thing on Partsouq haha
EDIT: These are the AVLS solenoids, only applicable to the EZ30
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5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
BTSSM doesn't have the OCV parameters so need to test them against AVCS angles using RomRaider.
Or pull the solenoids out, swap sides and see if the issue stays on the same side or moves with the solenoid.
I haven't removed these valves myself but it might be worth noting the LH and RH valves have different part numbers possibly indicating they can't be swapped... -
Agree with Andy_Mac. I did this today to my car funnily enough. I only had a squeak when the clutch pedal was released. Being lazy I just carefully sprayed a lubricant on the push-rod going through the firewall. Is your noise from inside the car or outside in the engine bay? Should help isolate the culprit...
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As far as I am aware, for a simple plug and play deal you can use FreeSSM to check whether Cruise Control has been integrated into the PCM. I have an '05 BPE Manual, Import, without cruise buttons/switches fitted, though the computer indicates it has been pre-programmed (by the green tick) and would only need the necessary hardware to 'activate' the system
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Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day...
The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper-
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If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life
If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered.
Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different?
Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc.
If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)
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The bearings are a different size for a start, however the bolt in bearing carrier for the rear has a different (smaller on the 5x100 hub) bolt spacing. To swap to the larger bearing unit there's specialist marching required to the rear arms and an adapter plate fabricated.
Have a look at the 3rd from bottom post here
https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/conversion-5x100-5x114-3-05-lgt-129874p12.html?highlight=hub+swap -
After noticing some dead spots in the low beam lights on Mum's Outback, I was pretty keen to figure out what the hell was causing it
These are the bi-xenon HID projectors on a NZ New 08 Outback. Made a decent pattern on the beam-setter, but couldn't quite understand the patchy output. I pulled the bumper and grille off to remove the lights. Bulbs appeared fine if a little aged. Next, I pulled out the reflector bowl/bulb housing behind the projector lens, and found the reflective chrome had started to peel off the housing. Next step is finding someone who can re-paint these, or if they need vacuum metalizing or what...
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13 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:
If you're planning an insurance fraud might as well just delete this post. Insurance companies are not as dumb as some might think.
If bimmers glass gets farked I'd be going straight to the dealer and let them talk to my insurance company. Way too many sensors, cameras as well as a HUD set-up.
Yeah, I probably should've mentioned that haha. @iludez
Even delaying the claim, it boils down to insurance fraud, so make of that what you will...
You'd be surprised how little the dealer will have to do with the whole replacement process, and in cases we've had, the glaziers say their hands get tied by the insurance company forcing aftermarket glass to be used. In our case anyway we can only advise genuine parts be used, then supply a genuine screen and fix/calibrate/aim when the inevitable c**k-up occurs
With the HUD, I wouldn't be too concerned about the windscreen's role there, most commonly the HUD unit sits in the dash and is only projected/displayed onto the windscreen so no direct link there
If you really want to think too hard about it I start worrying about the different refractivity of light through the lesser quality glass, and if that impacts all these super sensitive and closely calibrated safety systems... -
The best way to guarantee the right windscreen is to have one ordered through the dealer. Even then, calibrating the Eye-Sight comes down to the replacement method. They need to replace any gel pads or adhesives used between the cameras and any other sensors the system uses. Fingers crossed they don't hit or knock the cameras when removing & refitting. The number of cars we see for a windscreen recalibration with poor workmanship or cameras requiring re-aiming ($45k of equipment needs to be ordered in) is horrific unfortunately...
Could an option be you add windscreen cover to your policy now and hold out on the claim until the next WOF?
For my 2c, I had a rear windscreen replaced by Smith & Smith (forget the branch) they used second hand glass, snapped the aerial wires off left hanging and left a lot of glass in the car. They refused to ever use second hand glass, and said they were not qualified or equipped to remove all the glass from within the boot... Their tune changed I had my insurance company involved...-
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I would strongly suggest having your ballast checked (auto sparky), or swapping bulbs side to side to confirm you have a bulb issue.
Also in case you didn't know, the HID system runs off around 24,000V so care is required when messing with the system at all
Oh, and you wanna be careful with replacing bulbs individually. Each bulb has a different colour/temperature rating, in Kelvin. Most stock bulbs hover around the 4300K, closest to 'white light'. If you replace one bulb you may notice a colour difference between left/right lights -
Could one guard have been rolled and one not? Previous owner or part of the panel repair you mentioned previously?
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On 3/24/2019 at 9:49 PM, sobanoodle said:
I had a ”pleasure” of driving a 2016 or 17 Mazda 6 wagon for two weeks as an insurance loaner. Fuel consumption wasn't anything spectacular at all. Noisy engine that you have to push hard. Very basic multimedia etc.
In all honesty I'd rather drive a 4th or 5th gen Legacy than that Mazda.
Sounds like the pov-spec 2.0L, mainly used for company/fleet/rental use unfortunately. Sure, they're no Legacy, but the higher trim diesel and incoming 2.5 turbo aren't a bad combo at all. The kit & safety features the new Mazda's come with, considering the price point is impressive. They definitely lack the refinement you get out of similar era BMW/Audi/Merc, but at half the price its unfair to compare
Sorry, just read the 2.5L comment
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4 hours ago, Individualities said:
That is incredibly vague. The LEDs I have bought are designed to diffuse light in a similar, or even better manner compared to a incandescent.
Asked my old boss, from when I was mechanic. Turns out that retrofitted LEDs aren't allowed at all anymore.
Despite that, ultimately it's at the inspectors discretion... The practical concern I see is a flooded market of cheaper LED's that don't have a discernible brightness difference between tail light and brake light functions. Whilst OSRAM and Philips are quality brands and make these claims, it's all how the bulb performs in the lamp itself in the real word day and night
Save yourself the hassle, if the bulbs are safe take it for an inspection an see if they fail before doing all that work
17 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:Do not really understand what you really gain by swapping standard bulbs with LED in case of brake lights.
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Finally switched to non-runflat tyres. What a change, transformed the car significantly!
One argument is no 'warm-up' time compared to traditional filament bulbs where LED are instant on. We're talking miliseconds here but...
Re runflats; That's gotta be one of the best mods you'll make for handling and road noise! What tyres have you gone with as replacement?-
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4 hours ago, mtbtimr said:
Yep, I'm going to print off a copy of the wording from the NZTA website to keep in the glove box.
Yeah what DRFVDR explained is true. Unfortunately it's all up to interpretation, no specific legislation for LED bars..
I had a chat with one of the NZTA WOF auditors about them, and he was not a fan at all. Rather annoying considering they're (LED bars) are a modern part, readily available and are being fitted more and more. It didn't sound like there were any long term plans to introduce some new specific ruling around them either... Frustrating really
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Why can I not get a front tow hitch fitted? pls help.
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
It depends largely on the class and weight of the vehicle.
Have a read over this, mainly condition 2
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact
In short, I suspect it will be difficult to fit a front tow bar to an Outback without modifying the front structure of the vehicle therefore failing a WOF and/or requiring LVV Cert
A quick google reveals this as an idea?
https://themarket.com/nz/p/gen2-12v-550w-electric-motorised-jockey-wheel-mini-mover-black/4409-nt04020-bk?skuid=4140358&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqKuKBhCxARIsACf4XuHTXj2xARo-GVZM9WYh_H8SvmYwz9hFssrdc4bHETHigoZ9bgxFlQkaAoqPEALw_wcB