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Nachoooo

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Nachoooo last won the day on August 26

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  • Drives :
    BH5 TS-R - RIP
    BLE 3.0R Spec B - Sold
    BP5 GT Spec B - Sold
    BPE 3.0R Spec B
    BP9 Outback
  • Location
    Nelson
  • Occupation
    Automotive Technician

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  1. If you want the Brembo name you can try price up a set from BNT, though these will be 'aftermarket'. I got a set of replacement Brembo branded front rotors on a standard non-Brembo caliper BP GT and they were comparative cost to other aftermarket options. I don't know what goes on behind the manufacturing scenes but they come in a Brembo box and all so...
  2. I personally don't have the equipment to quote logs and prove improvements with data, however; from reading this thread I believe I've rectified a fair few niggles I've found. Mainly hesitations when accelerating, not smoothly pulling through the powerband and minor missfires. Fuel has exclusively been NPD 100+ or BP98 where 100 is unavailable Firstly, I sealed the cracked intake box the day I picked up the car. With regular maintenance I've been cleaning the throttle plate for carbon build up. After your suggestion, I checked all header/cat heat shields for security and found a couple brackets loose and vibrating. New bolts and/or nuts secured those. Small improvement to engine running seemingly felt. More recently I replaced all spark plugs with NGK ILFR6B plugs. When doing this I came across 2 further issues. Removing the headers to jack up each side of the engine revealed a loose header nut causing an exhaust leak, couldn't hear it at all though. Cleaned up all surfaces and seems to be okay Secondly, someone previously has broken some of the locking tabs off the coil wiring plugs. Their solution was to fill the surrounding area of the plug with RTV, now rendering the plug useless. This also seems to be causing the plug to not be seated 100% of the way home on the coil. Whether this is causing irregular coil performance I don't know... After fixing the exhaust leak, new plugs and an ECU reset the engine performance feels like it is improving further. Again I don't have the data to prove it, though it certainly pulls harder and smoother, more consistently as well
  3. I have a 6MT 3.0 and run NPD 100 Working through various hesitations and following this thread with interest haha
  4. NZDM cars predominately come as AUS spec models and when indicated, are tuned to run adequately on 91. Even current gen NZ New Mazda 2.5 Turbo engines are spec'd to run 91... 😕 Interestingly, their latest SkyActiv X engine requires minimum 95 octane or higher for the 'homogenous' or compression ignition petrol engine...
  5. Let's just say the engine wasn't too happy after the oil filler cap was mistaken for washer fluid cap... She's seized solid now... 😬
  6. Any guesses for what happened here? (Not mine, ha)
  7. Yeah, got there in the end haha, see above post. I've edited the first post to make it clearer
  8. @Andy_Mac My bad, I got confused between the AVLS and AVCS solenoids. The solenoids for AVCS (timing) appear to indeed be interchangeable. Partsouq only shows one part number with a quantity req'd of 2
  9. Same thing on Partsouq haha EDIT: These are the AVLS solenoids, only applicable to the EZ30
  10. I haven't removed these valves myself but it might be worth noting the LH and RH valves have different part numbers possibly indicating they can't be swapped...
  11. Agree with Andy_Mac. I did this today to my car funnily enough. I only had a squeak when the clutch pedal was released. Being lazy I just carefully sprayed a lubricant on the push-rod going through the firewall. Is your noise from inside the car or outside in the engine bay? Should help isolate the culprit...
  12. As far as I am aware, for a simple plug and play deal you can use FreeSSM to check whether Cruise Control has been integrated into the PCM. I have an '05 BPE Manual, Import, without cruise buttons/switches fitted, though the computer indicates it has been pre-programmed (by the green tick) and would only need the necessary hardware to 'activate' the system
  13. Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day... The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper
  14. If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)
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