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About Nachoooo

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  • Drives :
    BH5 TS-R
    BLE 3.0R Spec B - Sold
    BP5 GT Spec B - Sold
    BPE 3.0R Spec B
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  • Occupation
    Apprentice Mechanic

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  1. Let's just say the engine wasn't too happy after the oil filler cap was mistaken for washer fluid cap... She's seized solid now... 😬
  2. Any guesses for what happened here? (Not mine, ha)
  3. Yeah, got there in the end haha, see above post. I've edited the first post to make it clearer
  4. @Andy_Mac My bad, I got confused between the AVLS and AVCS solenoids. The solenoids for AVCS (timing) appear to indeed be interchangeable. Partsouq only shows one part number with a quantity req'd of 2
  5. Same thing on Partsouq haha EDIT: These are the AVLS solenoids, only applicable to the EZ30
  6. I haven't removed these valves myself but it might be worth noting the LH and RH valves have different part numbers possibly indicating they can't be swapped...
  7. Agree with Andy_Mac. I did this today to my car funnily enough. I only had a squeak when the clutch pedal was released. Being lazy I just carefully sprayed a lubricant on the push-rod going through the firewall. Is your noise from inside the car or outside in the engine bay? Should help isolate the culprit...
  8. As far as I am aware, for a simple plug and play deal you can use FreeSSM to check whether Cruise Control has been integrated into the PCM. I have an '05 BPE Manual, Import, without cruise buttons/switches fitted, though the computer indicates it has been pre-programmed (by the green tick) and would only need the necessary hardware to 'activate' the system
  9. Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day... The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper
  10. If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)
  11. The bearings are a different size for a start, however the bolt in bearing carrier for the rear has a different (smaller on the 5x100 hub) bolt spacing. To swap to the larger bearing unit there's specialist marching required to the rear arms and an adapter plate fabricated. Have a look at the 3rd from bottom post here
  12. After noticing some dead spots in the low beam lights on Mum's Outback, I was pretty keen to figure out what the hell was causing it These are the bi-xenon HID projectors on a NZ New 08 Outback. Made a decent pattern on the beam-setter, but couldn't quite understand the patchy output. I pulled the bumper and grille off to remove the lights. Bulbs appeared fine if a little aged. Next, I pulled out the reflector bowl/bulb housing behind the projector lens, and found the reflective chrome had started to peel off the housing. Next step is finding someone who can re-paint these, or if they need vacuum metalizing or what...
  13. Yeah, I probably should've mentioned that haha. @iludez Even delaying the claim, it boils down to insurance fraud, so make of that what you will... You'd be surprised how little the dealer will have to do with the whole replacement process, and in cases we've had, the glaziers say their hands get tied by the insurance company forcing aftermarket glass to be used. In our case anyway we can only advise genuine parts be used, then supply a genuine screen and fix/calibrate/aim when the inevitable c**k-up occurs With the HUD, I wouldn't be too concerned about the windscreen's role there, most commonly the HUD unit sits in the dash and is only projected/displayed onto the windscreen so no direct link there If you really want to think too hard about it I start worrying about the different refractivity of light through the lesser quality glass, and if that impacts all these super sensitive and closely calibrated safety systems...
  14. The best way to guarantee the right windscreen is to have one ordered through the dealer. Even then, calibrating the Eye-Sight comes down to the replacement method. They need to replace any gel pads or adhesives used between the cameras and any other sensors the system uses. Fingers crossed they don't hit or knock the cameras when removing & refitting. The number of cars we see for a windscreen recalibration with poor workmanship or cameras requiring re-aiming ($45k of equipment needs to be ordered in) is horrific unfortunately... Could an option be you add windscreen cover to your policy now and hold out on the claim until the next WOF? For my 2c, I had a rear windscreen replaced by Smith & Smith (forget the branch) they used second hand glass, snapped the aerial wires off left hanging and left a lot of glass in the car. They refused to ever use second hand glass, and said they were not qualified or equipped to remove all the glass from within the boot... Their tune changed I had my insurance company involved...