A_J_T
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Posts posted by A_J_T
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On 9/2/2017 at 6:08 PM, JGM said:
Too low for the Turoa carpark...
I bent my exhaust up in that carpark
turns out lowered Outbacks are better at leveling the gravel than climbing over it.
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35 minutes ago, 1randomkiwi said:
Wonder if the thread is the same as my auto... I want to try my hand on a new knob but I don't know if any fit
Id rather not pass mine around the boys for cheeky test fits, Most knobs come with multi thread insert adapters
as seen here
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I alternated between that D1 Knob and a Cobb delrin knob in my old car. Both couldn't be more different, D1 is heavy as, Cobb feather light. lightweight knob you can feel every groove and notch in the box. Weighted less so, preferred the weighted knob for smashing gears through but the Cobb knob felt better, looked better and did not heat up in the sun.
I have that D1 knob in my auto Wago now actually haha, looks good on the auto shift stick with no booty
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IMHO
I like the Raised Standard - Silver Centre - With the Zerosports trim you have on yours it holds a certain level of class. IMO Carbon fiber is only cool when its used for its purpose. Sure it looks "cool" but on a small center cap it looks cheap and tacky even if it is actual carbon and not cheap, it still holds the appearance of something unnecessary.
That said, all options look clean, whatever you go for will look tidy, you always seem to tidy loose ends up
. most people would roll capless and call it a day
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25 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Sold the car to another member
Its about time you started another build isn't it?
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1 minute ago, JGM said:
By the time you remove the rear interior and get it all back together though...
Less hassle with the front as there ain't any obstructions.
Fair call I guess, on the BP its as simple as folding the rear seats down and popping the boot floor liner out though
the old BE was much more frustrating
Maybe the 04 is a little simpler?
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40 minutes ago, JGM said:
The rears are more involved in my opinion, fronts are straight forward - usually takes me approx. double the time to do rears.
Really! I find that fascinating haha literally 3 things to loosen for the rears
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BP coilover install is pretty strait forward, If you set aside a half day to do it that should be ample depending on your experience etc. Biggest thing is to expect hiccups like a stuck lower strut bolt or something that might take a little more time than expected.. just take your time and enjoy it.
Tools needed iirc
19mm socket
12 or 14mm? socket or ring spanner
A breaker bar and/or 19mm ring spanner and a mallet.
The way I would/did approach it was to start with the fronts as they are the most involved and move to the rear once you have sorted the front.
With the Fronts they have a camber bolt so you can mark things up to help you out but when reassembling just set both camber bolts the same left/right and try have the top hats set similar too. just eyeball it and get it as close as possible, saves embarrassment later on when you head around to the wheel alignment
As above; have a mate handy to help pull down or push up the control arms when removing and installing the strut. The rubber bushes due to having tension on them have a spring like characteristic and will want to neutral out at some point. so just take extra care when removing the lower strut bolts, especially the rears as they can jump up and slap you about real good if you are unfortunate enough to have your face in the way. loosen off the top 12mm bolts but dont take them all off until you are ready for the strut to fall out. Preferably hold it to stop it from dropping. Especially if you have forgotten to remove abs and brake line brackets
Read this for more details: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/isc-coilover-review-and-install-137467.html
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@willisnz Have you considered getting your current 3L tuned? Is it an import or NZ new?
My new import BPE is a dog on fuel, been talking with Tony at DTech to get it tuned for our fuel and altitude for efficient and health etc no number chasing "Yet". The thing to remember is the 3L 6 cylinder is a gorgeous engine to drive. don't sell it off just cause you want a turbo that will have arguably the same power. I have no knowledge on The S-gt but i assume it is like 140-150kw? similar to the 3L but the 3L has torque from the get go.
I'm not saying the 3L is better and all you need to do is tune it, there are advantages to both. Just coming in with another opinion from someone thats had both.
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Naturally we need more information. TMIC or FMIC? I can only assume said pipe is back on haha.
could be anything like MAF in backward or if its a pod adapter the pipe could be around the wrong way causing the MAF to be backwards
Crank position sensor?
Knock sensor? - I dont think this will cause a no start condition though.
Injectors?
Throttle body loom and associated plugs
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14 hours ago, Invisible said:
All of you make me sad...
I like the way all your cars look and I kinda want an Outback now...hmm buy a blown one and transfer all my S*** over...Manual conversion while you're at it
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17 minutes ago, willisnz said:
I like how @whitebait19 and @A_J_T cars look like different generations of the exact same car since they are both two tone.
We both clearly have impeccable taste, keen to get a shot together haha
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15 hours ago, whitebait19 said:
Got a couple of random snaps thisarvo while unloading goodies
On another note, what do we rekon about a meet up of some sort? Maybe Mangawhai? Somewhere nice in the middle?
Nice pics, also down for a Wago meet
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Loving all the Gen 3 B4 BE content
makes me miss mine.
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I've updated my first post cause it made no sense.
Pretty sure a 32 will bolt on but as I said in my other post its not worth worrying about. the performance difference between a 27 and 32 is not enough to worry about.
19 hours ago, FaceAche said:Thanks for the response. Secondary has been diagnosed as bad by two different independent mechanics (one a Subaru specialist).
I understand that with secondary turbo's pretty much any of them will bolt on except for a 14. Initially organised a 31 primary and 32 secondary from SubTech, but they weren't happy with the 32 so didn't want to supply it - have swapped it out for a 27.
Going to get both of them done, and keep the 31 that's currently on the vehicle as a spare, just in case. Putting aside the single-turbo conversion for the time-being; probably going to be too expensive and time-consuming for me.
12 hours ago, boostin said:So what's it doing? What are the symptoms?
+1 Whats it doing, I question how they diagnosed it. usually there are clear signs as to whats gone wrong when a turbo is on its way out.
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34 minutes ago, 1randomkiwi said:
But is it still a crime for me to prefer this look?
This is the wrong thread to be throwing pics like that around haha
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Put 900km on her and realized two things. Wagons are rather practical, and this car is next level awesome! I mean I'm sorry but trashing up an Icy hill fully loaded with people and gear past all the muppets in their RWD ute's etc etc while looking like this, was just so bloody righteous. Love the Outback, could not be happier.
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Ok no time to read all that ^ Sorry for the late reply and if i end up saying something someone has already stated.
Firstly, if you cant do the single conversion yourself Id suggest forgetting it. There is to much to iron out once its done which you can only really do over time imo.
Re- Turbos. Just replace the Primary with the VF33. Don't worry about the secondary unless it has been diagnosed as bad. A secondary rarely die in these, I have a VF32 sitting on my bench that has 175,000 and its as new in regards to shaft play and throw.
To my knowledge the only major difference between the VF32 secondary and 31 Primary Turbo is the exhaust housing the V32 has a slightly larger P18 and VF31 smaller P16. These housings are totally different, not only in size but also flange bolt pattern naturally because one is a primary one is a secondary so they are NOT swappable. But the CHRA is the same to my knowledge so you can make a frankenstein secondary with a 31 and an old 32. That being said, now that I have read what your needing that's all mostly useless information.
Pretty positive you will have VF31 Primary “As you have already identified” And a VF27 secondary.
I read somewhere that the vf27 is actually a better option for high power setups on the twins but as we are all well aware there is alot of conflicting information out there on the twins. Regardless the performance difference between the 32 and 27 are negligible so don't loose any sleep over it.
I’d stick with the vf31/vf27 combo and work towards being single turbo in the future as you have said.
To Summarize: Replace the Primary and keep driving.
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53 minutes ago, delta said:
@A_J_T Are you after look or performance ?
All good info, I already have Brembo's. Ample for street use.
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27 minutes ago, delta said:
I didn't know an Outback / Legacy could look nice !
I like the sleeper / sporty / nice-looking compromise you got here
It needs more low, but yea it came out looking alright
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16 hours ago, ADIKT said:
Are you putting the guard liner back in?
Yea, its not wide enough naturally so using zip ties to hold it up. better that than having exposed wires/loom etc.
16 hours ago, ADIKT said:Take plenty of pics - I want to see the clips on the back of fender too
Will upload today if i get time.
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turns out lowered Outbacks are better at leveling the gravel than climbing over it.
. most people would roll capless and call it a day
the old BE was much more frustrating
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Lowered outback thread
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
3L are all 5AT
If you want to take one for a spin that is not a boat let me know