Rosssub

That\'s a vacuum solenoids air filter. Do you mean you snapped the little plastic nipple on the solenoid that filter/hose goes onto?

Loose Front right wheel bearing? Tie rod end? Are the new tyres even pressure? Edit: Any of which could of already been bad, just less noticeable with your other wheels/tyres.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-43-Autoart-Subaru-Legacy-Gt-B-Station-Wagon-Gold-MIB-/190921736673?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item2c73d281e1

Here\'s another thread : in Subyclub.com with the member (Zanzarah) that originally had the mould made, also covers fitting after purchase from ebay with minor trims needed etc. Looks like they are a good fit to VF32/33 with little trimming and come with extra vac fittings and clamps. http://www.subyclub.com/topic/4531-b4-tt-intake-pipe-found/

From \'Pleasure Racing Service\' at $472usd LOL Through Negun: http://www.nengun.com/pleasure-racing-service/turbo-piping-kit-d2

Here\'s a link to a thread that has a full \'how to\' on the change by UKLegacy (thread started by a Kiwi). This has a link to the same Ebay seller and comments about one of their members commissioning these pipes getting made in china. http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/127871-replace-turbo-inlet-pipe-bg5-ej20tt-how/page__st__20

From Sti performance parts catalogue, courtesy of Forty One Auto: http://www.sti.jp/parts/catalogue/bebh_legacy/cat3.html

Full fitting instructions here: http://download.robson-brown.co.uk/uklegacy/zerosport/index.html

$219.18nzd delivered ($125+$55 shipping USD) The Ebay seller added NZ to his shipping list for me then changed it back. But said he would do it again and seems genuine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-liberty-legacy-B4-Rev-E-Twin-turbo-silicone-air-intake-pipe-induct-hose-/331044986222?vxp=mtr They\'re \'W S Racing\', which google\'s to a European racing outfit?

Just got a call from my only local Subaru shop, nothing available new in NZ OEM but possibly ex japan at $389 + GST + freight from japan. Strong\'s can do second hand OEM for $235 + GST + $50-$70 freight. Edit: And I just tried to buy the cheap ebay one but waiting/hoping for seller to add NZ shipping price, so can\'t as yet.

I wanted to cut the original and put a 90\' bend in but the BOV plumback hose hole is to close to the primary now, also I would be clamping onto corrogations. That Ebay silicone one would work but I was hoping someone like Perrin/tomie etc make one for the TT, as they have steel inserts in the vac and recirc hose holes

My inlet hose is knackered (BH5b), 200,000kms+ and the bend at the primary end is folding over in front of the turbo inlet and restricting about 1/3 causing an amusing boost whistle among other things. Looking at replacement options: do I need a specific \'Rev B\' inlet pipe to suit? Does my Rev B have a 50mm primary inlet compared to Rev D 60mm primary inlet? Are there other differences? I could go second hand that could be as old as mine: http://www.partsworld.co.nz/parts/subaru/legacy/2117-bh5/71-turbo-inlet-pipe/355579697 Or aftermarket silicone through ebay for rev E with 60mm primary: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-liberty-legacy-B4-Rev-E-Twin-turbo-silicone-air-intake-pipe-induct-hose-/331044986222?vxp=mtr Has anyone sourced one locally? Or priced new OEM? Or have any better options?

Aren\'t the ecu pinouts in different places between rev A/B & C/D?

Before: After:

AFAIK the ECU sends out a 1.7v switching signal to the fuel pump relay for on/off, but imagine the pump itself would see full battery voltage? But pretty much if you\'ve got full 14.6v at the battery but only 12.8 ish at the pump with no other load then your losing amps and need bigger wiring. Here\'s a good link on a pump re-wire/walbro upgrade: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2382384

+1, low speed high pitched pinging/clicking in straight line-inner cv, wind down both front windows and listen, you may be able to tell which side it is? Then the louder deeper knocking while turning tight from outer cv on the same side. What condition are your cv boots in? cracked/perished? If a noise is engine speed/wheel speed related it aint no bushy?

It might of spun out with a punch and small hammer? Find a replacement speedo cable sleeve, take it to an engineering outfit and get a thread tap to suit. Maybe run the vacuum against it while you re-tap the thread so you don\'t lose any slithers into the gearbox. tidy the top edge with a file.

Welcome, the jolt could be one of many things. Does it definitely only do it in forth? Good first step would be to get hold of a boost gauge so you can see what\'s going on when it jolts, holding boost, losing boost or boost spiking on initial acceleration etc. But... With your clutch starting to slip should you be boosting that much at all? The less you slip it the longer it will last. I would sort the clutch first then look at the hard acceleration issues, or at least be nice till the clutch is done. Also, being first TT legacy do you know what VOD is? at 4000 rpm ish you loose boost for a second as the secondary turbo pre spools then both kick in, maybe what your feeling?

Ripple testing with multi meter, starter current draw, voltage regulator etc: http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf

Also in that wiring diagram the AFM,MAP and TPS are all getting the same feed so a ripple (surge) would effect them all. With a new battery, maybe over charging (voltage regulator) killed the old one as well as over amped your AFM\'s, put a multi meter on the battery and give it a rev and make sure the volts don\'t go above 14.6 ish?

+1 For bad earth or electrical fault killing your AFM\'s. The ECU gets 12v then feeds out normally 5v to sensors (just variable resistors) which then feed a lower voltage signal back. I.E Subaru AFM\'s get 5v from the ECU then at idle give back 1-1.7v, at full rev\'s (air flow) 5v. Looking in the wiring diagrams below the AFM also has its own separate earth which could be worth finding. Maybe on the guard near AFM branching out of loom. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6444.0.html

Turbo to TMIC silicone pipes to replace OEM I've seen this covered twice, here by Marky: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,31651.0.html and here by nickmcgill: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6105.0.html The OEM pipes smallest internal diameter, primary and secondary is 28-30mm at the bend, The smallest internal diameter in the silicone is 36-38mm not to mention the ribs and corogations. Which is 7.065cm3 compared to 11.335cm3, with an air velocity of 10m/s charged to 14psi air flow rates are: OEM pipes - 0.37m3 (783cfm) Silicone - 0.61m3 (1292cfm) So almost double the amount of flow. I've just brought a pair for $58 delivered off trademe, only one with these sizes right now: 1 x 1.3/4" to 1.1/2" 45' reducer elbow 1 x 1.3/4" to 1.1/2" 90' reducer elbow http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-648188424.htm

Reflash/Retune so it\'s not running rich after changing the downpipe.

Cool, so with a new wof now, next one due mid April. I\'ll have 2 more 6 monthly wof\'s before it effects me, or maybe fall into a changeover bracket and get 12 months next wof (April). 2000 BH5

Sweet, thanks.