mostrandomguyaround

Hey man, I can do it at half what the workshops quote. im in welly city. txt me 0272128024

Hey man could be keen, you have a new clutch or you want one supplied ? also recommend getting flywheel machined which is about $40.

So what happened. Did you never recieve the goods or were they not what was described ?

Lol people that was a while ago. FYI he has mended a couple problems, and the car goes really good now.

Does anyone know where to get a flywheel macined in Wellington? OR I will swap a lightened racing flywheel for a good condition standard one that is in good nick and doesnt need to be machined. 0272128024

I tried everything, I even grounded the ecu control wire(ecu earths the relay, not +, to control it) to make pump run. But it was no spark that was my issue. Im sure the immobiliser in these ethat have them controls the fuel pump ?

Also remembering that VF22 are known to have a slight 'leak' sound to them, and if your running a siamese downpipe you will hear a louder noise than normal when you get onto boost, expecially when the wastegate opens

Hi there eeney, I specialise in teaching 'special' people the art of communication on an equal level, this level being ENGLISH.... Haha nah just kidding. What size brass pill is inside the vacuum line to your turbo? If it wasnt the one specified for your turbo, it can cause your boost to come on late and not as strong. Can you describe your symptoms in more detail? (english too please). Chuur boiii

Oh and also, I reused my twin turbo intake manifold with coil over plug. So I had already rewired 1-8-15-20 into 1-8. I went over my wiring so many times I know it all off by heart now oh dear time for sleeep

Yeah I tried both in 1 and 21 as per the PossumLink diagram. In 1 the pump ran continuosly, and on 21 it didnt run at all and threw the code. But that wasnt the problem, the problem was no spark. I was also under the impression the immobiliser is in the key transponder reciever and the immobiliser ecm, which is seperate to the ECU. It also appears that in cars with immobilsers the crank and cam sensors are switched around for whatever reason. I traced the wires with the possum link diagrams to confirm that my car didnt have an immobiliser installed. PS, I had already bypassed the fuel pump controller successfully. Also something to note for ya Gazzy. The diagram you have for the fuel pump relay was wrong for my particular car. There are 2 relays, one above the other. Both have a black earth. In the diagram the bottom one is the fuel pump relay, but in my car it was the top relay. Either way, of the two, its the one with the green plug on the back. PPS, The ECU I bought was a version 6 STi jobby. Along with the STi engine and other bits, this car goes well wicked now

Looks like he posted in this thread just yesterday and he has been keeping constant contact atleast . Id say if he was trying to rip people off he would of just taken the money and dissapeared.. (hope I dont gotta eat my words lol)

Just an FYI. Im in Wellington and ive bought/dealt with this guy a couple of times. Had what I wanted, that no 1 else had, and pulled through every time. I see hes been suspended, seems a bit quick to be doing that dont it ?

did you get it fixed ? before unbolting anything, its best to diagnose the problem first. What are your symptoms ?

Judging by the plastic (non momo) steering wheel. Id say it was BC, BJ or BF. Non turbo.

Anyone got a 2000-2006 version 7 8 or 9 subframe ? Mine has a dent and cant get a wof 0272128024 thanks

Hey people ive been searching around but cant get a definate answer. I own a 2002 bugeye WRX sedan. Non STi. Will the ECU fit and fun in my car ? Thanks in advance http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=383093135&cc=602&pid=172765818&hbc=&ct=link

Im sorry but I have to thoroughly disagree with that opinion of aftermarket parts. Are you actually aware that subaru regularly change their supplier of OEM parts due to Supply and demand. They actually outsource OEM parts to other companies alot of the time if they cant get the parts themselves. Ive bought genuine parts and had aftermarket brands come out the box. They must have some sort of trust in them. Plus, ive regularly seen them survive just as long as OEM. Always keep it within Japan though. So, dont buy it if its from China.

Just wondering. Did you use ReubenH's How To for your wiring? We followed it to a T, but still no luck. The ECU did spit codes. At first it spat 24 and 44. Which are the Idle control, and wastegate control solenoid. (iirc). Then after we tryed to reset the ECU, (and took the cambelt off to check timing), it spat NO CEL. THen we reset the ECU again, and it spat so many codes we didnt care to write them down. Does this indicate maybe a problem with the ECU? (it was brought from trademe)

Hi there. Ive just done a Single Turbo conversion to a 1996 GTB wagon. 5 speed. It wont run properly and im sure ive followed 'The Single Turbo Conversion Thread 2.0' to a T It barely boosts and wont idle. Splutters etc. Cheers

I have a query on this thing. As thieves do, theyll first disable your alarm siren under the bonnet (woe to people who mount the siren and/or wiring in plain sight in the engine bay). They will have done this after munting your bonnet vents to get at the bonnet sensor/battery/siren. So, as of yet the alarm hasnt been triggered. Once the siren is disabled they are free to set the alarm off (wont be heard) while they make entry to the car to rip the ignition and rewire the immobiliser. So my point is.. When they eventually DO trigger this loud dB thing, the doors will most probably be shut. So how loud is it to the outside of the vehicle?? And also, how long does the battery last, as theyd probably just leave and come back once its dead?? Cheers

Hi all, have a question. I have a 2002 Bug Eye WRX sedan. Ive just had a cuple new panels put on which are blue and the rest of the car is Silver. Im not going to get them painted silver, im getting the whole car painted Satin Black this week, and I have Headlight Covers which will be painted either black, or what color should I have my headlights to make it look mean (i understand ill only be able to use them during the day, unless i just tint them) But my real question is: I am a fan of Subaru, AND a fan of RWD cars so im wanting to make it RWD. (bad timing coming into winter i know). Ive had a couple of OLDER WRX and legacy RWDs and i know how to do thhe conversion. But im wondering if its any different with the newer WRX? (remove half shafts, remove diff?) Whats involved or is it exactly the same??

Hi if anyone is still interested in the actual post I have been to see the car tonight, had all four wheels jacked up off the ground, all the wheels spin. The rears spin opposite dirrections, so that says to me that the rear diff is ok? The front wheels spin, with the opposite wheel spinning the opposite direction as it should, although the fronts feel a little stiffer to spin, but can still be done by hand. When the engine is running, and the wheels off the ground, the moment you start to release the clutch, the engine dies. Is it still possible that it is the centre diff ? Or a new idea is a collapsed clutch ?

Sorry dude Subaru dont use Transfer Cases, but itd be similar if that to the ViscousCoupler centre diff

Im sure the Centre Diff is in the back end of the gearbox, meaning you can get at it without removing the gearbox, this page seems to think so too? http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/

Hi there, no the car doesnt tow in neutral either. I AM hoping for a blown centre diff though, cause I THINK this can be removed from the car without removing the gearbox? AND it would also be a good time to get the centre diff welded up and capping the front CVs etc. (im not interested into getting into a debate that a Subaru HAS to be AWD, I LOVE Subaru, but for everything except the AWD, Id be VERY happy to have another Subaru that isnt AWD, ive had a couple of RWD subars and they were alot of fun. Cheers