Percy

Righto chaps and chapettes, interesting developments! I tried a tap thingy at various openings in the pressure line to the ECV, which I had plumbed up to line 12, as it was the closest line from the manifold to the ECV. Fail, made no change to anything apparently, so ripped that out. Then re-read the instructions on Subyclub, and he had it plumbed into line 22 from the secondary BOV/ SPV, derp! So I've stuck it in that one instead and hey presto, it works as per normal, as far as I can tell from a drive round the block dodging the potholes down by the river. Maybe a bit quicker to close the ECV after the usual weirdness from changing during VOD. Will see if it does anything particularly noticeable next time I get to take it for a blat somewhere that isn't a pothole infested 50k zone...

I'll give it a whirl then Trev!

I'm wondering if a restriction in the pressure line to the ECV would help to control how much the valve opens? Something like the ghetto irrigation tap I have in Line 1.

Interesting... So this morning after playing with stuff last night, it had basically no primary boost, and an explosion of boost at about 4500-5000rpm. Was exciting, but not terribly drivable, or practical. Either I have f*#ked up which hoses go where, or I've got the ECV adjusted way wrong.

After reading Marky's post, I tweaked the actuator rod on the ECV, and it was well toite, toiter than a Tiger even. It took 3 1/2 full turns to get it to rattle, which would explain why it was being a big goofy on transition, so we'll see if its better tomorrow morning. Also did the hose mod, to we'll see if that helps as well.

Pfffft! Who does that, its a Subaru, it should be driven like a nutjob... shouldn't it?

I cans shows youses hows its doneses!! As Marky said, the most PITA thing is getting the heatsheild off, as it so happens I have not put mine back on yet since putting the new motor in (slack I know), so that bits done already!

This is of interest to me, as I have just remembered I have not yet done this trickery to the new engine, which explains some things and stuff.

New engine oil and filter. Also replaced the power steering fluid, which is a bit of a PITA, took ages to get all the air out of the system. And it makes a mess.

From Dave, and the Tardeme seller from Straya for the ones he can't get.

Got the wheels pointed in the right direction now, after new Super-Pro bushes everywhere in the front, and new rack-ends and tie rod-ends. Drives like a new car! Now to start on the rear...

Yep! Car is back to being all Subaruey, can just steam over things, and not worry about bottoming out all over the place.

Tizz if you live in CHCH! Just put mine back to stock and its 1000000% better round here.

They're dreaming... offer them half!!

Swore at it, cos I found a pinhole leak in the top radiator hose, f#$k. Oh well, time to put the blue silicone hoses on then I guess!! As well as fix the worn steering bits I found while putting in the urethane bushes and changing the springs back to stock over the weekend. Car rides much better over the munted roads we have, no more bumpstop/ spine abuse! Lucky we have a spare vehukle what that I can drive, heyuck heyuck, even if it isn't a Subaru...

New bump stop and bushing in one of the struts for the GTB, almost ready to go in the car!

What he said, minus the house selling bit.

Mine has a manual boost controller, as well as the hose modes, and makes 1.1-1.2bar which is 16-18 psi no problemo.

What flavour power bleeder is it? I've been thinking of getting one.

Bought it some much newer/ lower k's Bilsteins. As I figure I should chuck some new grease in them before putting them in, does anyone know what sort of grease to use in them? I've found conflicting views on lithium vs molybdenum on teh interwebs.

Mine are almost identical to those, just one bit or 200x40ish as the ramp instead of 2 90x45's. Worked mint when I couldn't get my trolley jack under the front of the car cos its a bit low...

Ahh, that bit, shouldn't need to be super tight as its only a brace.

Ahh, which bit are we looking at exactly?

The emissions code is the letters before the model code, so on that sheet they are "GH" before the "GDB", which probably wont comply as its not a 3 letter code.

Interesting, because my partners RevD RSK does not really have a VOD as such, just boost then some more boost. And its bone stock as far as we know. You can trick it into being a slug if you change gear in the wrong spot, not sure if anything can fix that issue other than single churbro-ing things. Its certainly better than my RevC GTB with pretty much everything done to it bar the ZS controller and the downpipes, which are waiting on some funds for heat wrap and a muffler... stupid lack of funds!