spark_38

I'm staying out west so Pakuranga is sorta on the way thru. Pending donut stop in Botany Flick me a txt or PM

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/speakers/other/auction-424772762.htm Get those. Support a local NZ company. I just bought two sets, currently running them in. Nice sounding speakers. Not too high pitched 'harsh' treble. Nice sound. Get two sets. Just use the woofers in the rear - leave the tweeters out. You won't find better speakers for $150!

since the car is already at the olds; it's not a bad idea

I've got some I was going to get skimmed, but they are below their minimum thickness of 16mm. I know Viv would have a few sets about. Maybe even new ones.

That's a good price. It's probably worth it for scrap metal.

Where is a good place to go to for panelbeating and paint? Anyone do perkies? While the motor is out - I may as well tidy up some previous dodgy repairs from the frontal (by last owners). The drivers guard doesn't fit properly.. and rust near battery tray, and a few minor dings/bad spots in body

Try a proper (non Jap 76-90MHz) radio, and since you're in Aucks - look for one with RDS. The new Pioneer ones like DEH-6350SD or 8350SD are good options. I've found the newer cars with amplified windscreen aerials to be a lot better than the older automatic up/down ones or the A-pillar pull-up types.

Cool. I'm sure a few of us locals will also turn up for this.

Closest Pick a Part is in Takanini, and the best one up there. They have another 2 smaller ones. http://www.pickapart.co.nz/locations.asp

Well the most gas I've been able to put in the coupe was 56L, and it was sitting right on the E mark. So technically that last 4 or so litres would have been in the reserve tank. Generally on long trips I like to fill it near the 1/4 mark, I work out how much I've used on the whole trip and average it. From Wellington to Te Kuiti it would be near 1/4 and I fill it. It sucks it's not a Wild Bean in T.K. though - no coffee & pie.

I'm sure this has been covered a few times already, but I'll get my 2c in: 2500km to 286L during Targa timing week in the Legacy GT wagon. So thats roughly 525km to 60L. With a full car and three persons. Factory motor of 316,xxxkm's, TD04 turbo.

Yeah having two sets of tweeters (esp down low) does sound a bit strange, I think I've done it before in the past - I prefered the factory ones as they didn't sound as harsh as the sony speakers. They were factory fujitsu ten ones in a Toyota.

The factory specified Impreza/WRX/STI battery is a 500CCA, Century part no: 55D23LMF . Although I normally fit the 58MF which is slightly bigger at 530CCA (and cheaper). The bigger CCA (cold cranking amps) is not for bigger sound systems, etc... it's to provide plenty of starting power to the starter motor, esp in colder (winter) conditions. Once the car has started, everything, including the sound system runs from the alternator. Trade price on the 58MF has gone from $100 to $120. So I suggest a Exide orbital redtop if you can find one for ~$100.

we're going to go with option B on that one If you're gonna leave the factory tweeters in, atttenuate the co-axials, some duct tape over the tweeter is the quickest method. This will result in a much smoother sound - removing that harsh treble. Even with the loudness on low/off and EQ on flat; I often have to set the high bands on -1 when using co-axial speakers. I once had Sony Xplod speakers - never again. They hurt my ears.

Having spent some time in a car stereo shop... you do some crazy sh!t sometimes to make them fit nicely. Especially Honda pockets. I refuse to do Honda's, the aftermarket stereos are almost an impossible fit when you pull out the factory units with the pockets that clip to the factory headunit. It's a stupid system. And having to pull half the dash out. [quote name='dmanww said: So I got around to installing all the stuff this weekend and have some observations - Stock Subaru speakers can get shockingly bad. The rubber on mine would flake off every time I touched them - Cheap tools suck big time. I managed to snap off the tip of a screwdriver trying to take off the main centre console. Luckily I was able to get everything done without removing it - The console I got from TM was really s***. I had to down to StreetSounds and get a proper one. - Butted connectors are a bitch to crimp. Hopefully they hold up. I have some questions though - Is there a way to get the HU to dim with the dashboard lights? I have a Pioneer DEH-1350 - What would be the downside of leaving the stock A pillar tweeters hooked up? The entry level Pioneer stereo's: 1-5 series do not have the dimmer function. Only series 6 and above have the auto-dimmer (orange wire) and the OEL display. i.e. DEH-P6050UB Take the tweeters out when replacing the stock ones with component speakers, or have you been lazy and just bought co-axial's?

Well, gotta be cleaner than that black filter bag - in any case.

Not necessarily. I got the pump assembly out of the Version 5 STI wagon that had been completely stripped. Joe got the suspension and he helped the guy get the motor and box out. The fuel pump was $25, and it looked near new. It's in the Legacy wagon now. The filter bag was as clean as a babies bum; compared to the dark one I pulled out.

Those that have done a few installs know that toyota and subaru aren't the same - the toyota ones do not sit flush, they sit behind the plastic surround and the holes have to be redrilled to suit the bracket. And they look ugly. The subaru pockets have a lip around them that protrude through to the plastic surround piece enabling it to sit flush. You wouldn't fit a toyota gear knob to your subaru, the same should apply to stereo pockets.

240,000k's - it's just been run-in My wagon has clicked over 316,050k's on the near stock drivetrain

I got mine cheap from pick a part, $8 complete with mounting brackets too. The 1.5 DIN ones aren't that common... I rang Ed's. $27.50 + P&P for the SUBP2 pocket. Genuine Subaru pockets can go for as much as $50. I usually recommend wreckers, common as so about $10-15. The aftermarket ones don't fit as well. Those repco ones are nasty as the frame piece keeps popping off, and the side brackets are held by flimsy screws into plastic.

Here's a couple of pics for those that couldn't make it today:

Wasn't the one in Auckland just as bad? Yeah, agree about the plates; hence we normally leave them off. Steve found out about those too.

I guess it went ok, 5-6 hours out and back in; if only it wasn't for that bottom plate thingy that sits under the motor to catch the dust from the clutch... The GDB motors offer a few surprises, in comparison to the older GC8 ones - it's good to get used to it. Esp with my anticipated setup in the coupe. Photo taken from phone, so excuse the poor quality.

Loosen engine mount nuts (14mm) x2, jack motor up slightly so that it clears the subframe - this will allow greater clearance between sump and pickup.... Alternatively extract motor from car, 45 min job, which results in hours saved later when you're trying to fit the sump (blindly), line it up, ensure a good seal of rtv, and get all the M6 screws back in without stripping the threads... also being a bigger sump with side baffles makes fitting from under the car a bit more cumbersome. For rtv/gasket glue; the grey Wurth stuff seems to be excellent - I think I used it to seal some rocker cover gaskets

The Hella ones I'm using are the plus 90, 55W/60 - standard wattage. About $16 each +gst. I generally don't use the 90W/100 ones anymore as the heat/excessive current drain tends to melt the factory connectors...actually I haven't used them in over 5 years.