Stoffa

all yellows are 440cc rated at 85% IDC @3bar, decapped they are 900cc and even a possum link wont control them properly. do yourself a favour and dont worry about injectors till last

no km for a 7 month period, that could be dodgy.

it wont have a spray pattern once decapped, I did it myself for free with a fine file. it really is that easy

maybe the car had much higher km\'s than it said and he thought you were onto him being dodgy so he kicked you out before you looked further into the car.

I got talked out of cheapies last time, they were trying to tell me the electrodes break down and come away form the plug, but I guess thats only if your not changing them at correct intervals. what have I done to my car today? Listed it on Trademe, time for silly trade offers

Your running an external arent you? Has the weld broken on your internal flap?

For 2.0 closed deck block you need 52mm big ends with #3 thrust(centre thrust) mains. get your crank measured first. i had a brand new crank and went with HX big ends and main cos im running much bigger clearances than factory

I\'ve got one in Welli too, its even been stripped down, checked, had all new seals and the breakaway pressure wound up from 15lbs to 55lbs, Macbuilt did the work. I pulled it out of my car cos I though it had a whine, replaced it with a low km one and the whine was still there, I think its coming from the gearbox

FIGJAM!!

this one was quick enough not to bother modifiying it, mind you a car always feels quicker when your drunk in the back seat ;D

sweet, mine were GSD3\'s great tyre but pretty noisey

no its not white ....what a s*** sounding factory stereo

the racks are mechanical so I doubt it\'ll be coming from there unless it was really rooted but then you\'d probably feel it all the time

if they run keeper springs they sometimes catch on the thread, mine do it every now and then

are they a asymetrical ones? or with the "V" pattern? I just swapped from the V pattern ones to RE001\'s and love them

+1 DD\'s are awesome, I\'m running a 10 and it cranks

He\'e gonna do a cambelt, he\'s a mechanic so he\'s got it covered

It is pretty smooth, I think I may try to find some dampner adjustable coilovers for the front, or maybe just get mine re-valved a bit softer and re-gassed

Got my wheel alignment yesterday after raising the car up 20mm and fitting higher profile tyres, I lost some negative camber but I now actually have some droop on the rear lateral links which definately helps the handling. Now sitting at -1.2* in the front which is the high end of factory settings. my camber is all screwy in the back even though it used to be dead even, but the alignment guys I used didn\'t even want to loosen the rear strut bolts, hell they only used one spanner to do the tie rod end nuts up which causes the settings to change while you tighten them up so he had about 3 goes to tighten themand get them sitting in the right spot. If you use one on the nut and one on the tie rod end itself it tightens without adjusting every time. I find it astounding how half assed people can be, most people would spot these things so I guess they get away with it. dont you hate it when you get to this point then realise the thread is rooted on the guard roller and you cant apply any pressure Oh well close enough so I wont chew my tyres out

Went for a drive in a mates 29,000km evo 7 last night, yes 29,000km, he bought it off a guy who had it from new and only used it a few weekends a year. I think I was the first person to use the rear seat belt. I think I maybe converted, or maybe its just cos it is so mint and still has that new car smell. although I think my arse maybe a bit big fo rthe front seats, they\'re tiny

the old sprongy sound aye? jack up the front end and wiggle your wheel side to side by hand, see if theres any play it may just be sometime spring related, is it running lowered springs? super lows are barely captive and the spring may have moved a little. If that is the problem you can fix it by lubing up some heater hose and slipping it on the first coil

the oil drain leaking runs along the bottom of the head and leaks onto the uppipe as well.

I had a seperator air box setup with my fmic and pod filter. I also have a 80mm flexible cold air pipe from my bumper vent to the engine bay. I had my car dynoed with the seperator and without and my tuner said it made no difference. I just left it out and removed the rubber strip under the headlight

Pics please, never heard of them sounds like a good idea. They must be quite short are they? I was thinking about running softer springs but they might be a better idea

to start with its the same size as the turbo, the air moves quicker through a smaller diameter pipe, so I guess it would have less time to heat soak from the hot pipe above the turbo.