Stoffa

+1 for Fujitsubo Mine came in the country with one on, I've got 2 1/2 inch down pipe then 3 inch after that, its not too loud probably right on the legal limit once the cat was removed from downpipe

sorry man, it keeps timing out, I'm heading out for the night. if you google hard enough you'll find one

it doesn't really say to much anyway other than "connect oil outlet hose to the oil pipe"

have you got somewhere I can just upload it too, damn gmails taking for ever, its 20meg

its on its way.....very slowly on my computer though sorry. I think the trick is to do the hose up with the turbo on an angle before you bolt it to the uppipe

just checked a copy of a workshop manual i've got, you should be able to reach it from the top with a long pair of long nose pilers. if you PM me your email address i'll send you the engine section of the manual if you like

This is probably no help but when I did mine the inlet manifold was off so it was easy to get too. What if you unclamp the hose completly?, attach it to the turbo then once all bolted back in reattch the other end last? if you can reach it from underneath

also a side note, when tightening up the 8mm bolts, dont over tighten them, they snap very easily then you have to replace the fuel tank!!!

pressure exchange solenoid, on my V5 one end connects to vaccuum source (inlet manifold) the other to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. If its not connected your ECU wont know how much boost your engine is running (this is bad) I'm assuming the ECU adjusts your fuel and/or timing according to how much boost your MAP sensor runs. hopefully some technical guru can confirm this. Mine got blown off and I'm sure its part of the reason I ran a bearing, I was hitting 17psi and ECU thought I didn't have any boost, causing it to lean out.

holy crap, I think you may have got a little of my curse too. dont forget i've got the vf28 there, price negotable. I'm about to pull my engine out of the car, I've already ordered a new HD clutch, i'll let you know if my old one is in good condition

sorted, all 2.0 cranks are 52mm

Factory Yellow 440cc injectors will max out around the 200-210kw mark, you'll definatly need a fuel pump just to be safe (careful about buying a fake walbro from trade me). You should maybe research parallel fuel rail mods, some people say its a must, others say factory setup is fine for 200kw.

Can anyone tell me what sized BEB's on a ej207 V7 sti? just looking at a few options for my engine build

For anyone who doesn't know what im talking about, some people get extra dowels drilled into your block between your bearing journals where the two halves of the block meet. Does anyone have any photo's of a dowelled block? I'm thinking about getting it done, some people I've talked to dont think its necessary unless your looking for crazy power, but others are convinced it stops flex in the block which closes the oil clearances. What are peoples thoughts? If a block did get that much flex would it just run a main bearing (which i've never heard of) or would it stop oil getting into the crank starve oil to the big end bearings?

mine did that for a while I thought it may be a bearing, took it to get checked out at sublab, it turned out to be a waterpump. if it was a brearing it would go pretty quickly then overheat

I gave murry a call at possum borne motorsport today, he said the baffle they add to a factory one is all they ever recommend, he said they've never had one of their engine die from lack of oil. at only $200 they're a whole lot cheaper than $1400 at trade for a moroso one, stupid exchange rate!

am I allowed to have 2 guesses? I saw a decent puss of purple smoke twice after you'd been on the track and restarted the car after it had cooled down a bit. 1. Turbo about to die, maybe seals starting to leak 2. Too much oil in your intercooler and intake. Might be an easy option just to degrease the intercooler, it cant hurt!

Damn, i run the same oil and got nowhere near the same oil temp, i hit 90 max all day. Topping up wiht about 1/2 a litre extra in the morning. Just a thought, my oil temp sensor is in the block above number 3 cylinder, if yours is still in the sump then mine will always read hotter than yours. I'll get heat soak and you'll have the rest of the oil in the sump that will show a lower temp reading I would imagine

On the street it runs between 90-100, I've never really thrashed it for long enough to see if it got any higher, before I put the oil cooler in it used to get up to about 110. When I went past the start/finish it was on about 110 by the time I got to the far side of the track it hit 120 then and oil pressure had dropped to about 30psi. It may have gone before it got to 110 but I couldn't hear it with my helmet on. my engine had done 138000kms so maybe just old age

ok, seeing how I ran a bearing at taupo after 4 1/2 laps I'll share my list of mods that I did hoping to make it safe for the track. Parallel Fuel Rail Setup (aftermarket rails with bigger internal diameter) Sard fuel pressure regulator, set to 45psi (forcing more fuel in) Oil Cooler with -8 Lines 5L of castrol edge 10w60 I was driving quite hard in straight lines changing about 7.5k, not pushing it too hard around the corners as still getting used to my suspension setup. I was running RE01R tyres which are ment to be quite sticky but certinaly not as good as semi slicks. Lost pressure at the same time oil temp started going above 120, I headed back to the pits and as shale says nunganunganunga. I was running a bigger turbo, a VF36 P20, which flows about the same as a VF22, on a factory computer (V5 sti) using an EBC boost wasn't spiking just hold steady at about 16.5-17 psi. ***modified*** I forgot to mention 138000kms So when my new engine goes in its getting a Moroso sump, no messing about!

BNT have a HD clutch and matched 4.5kg chromeolly(sp?) flywheel package for under $1000 this month

I just did mine a few weeks back, easily done without unbolting the engine mounts, I just used a mirror on a stick to make sure I got the old gasket goo off properly. Parts were about $130 from subaru, good luck if you try buying aftermarket as there are about 16 different types of gasket. Make sure you replace ALL of the seals that go on the bolts, they shrink over time and this is what causes the covers to wander and break the seal.

http://www.geocities.com/sincocustoms/

yep, your supposed to seal the sharp corners where the gasket curves over the camshaft, so 4 points on each side, I used the subaru recommended sealer which is "three bond 1215" which is about $40 a tube

I would have, but couldn't find the right size at home so I just put a piece of hose on the end and clamped a bolt inside it