IZichard
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Posts posted by IZichard
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5 hours ago, Joker said:
Is that a legacy equivalent of the casa Blanca? Or is it just a random oddball factory option?
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4 hours ago, Jono24 said:
https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Willall-Stage-X-EJ25-Subaru-Billet-Short-Block-p/iag-eng-1610.htm
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Not the same block but similar and an interesting comparison none the less. There are a few more videos on the channel about the full build of this engine into a car.
Edit: Whoops it actually is the same block
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1 hour ago, evowrx said:
Pm you.
Cleaning it is pointless if you don't actually fix the issue.
Could you flick me that pm too please. I tried finding a Rick Wheeler but there are quite a few on Facebook.
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1 hour ago, boostin said:
I'd hate to drive on the predecessor then! Those V2s have put me off Hankook for a long time. Not sure why we have very different experiences of them.
Edit - ah Concept 2, not V2 Concept.....
Yeah it is a confusing name, the new tyre is a hankook ventus v2 concept 2. They stopped making the one you hate and started making the tyre I'm talking about to replace it. Much better.
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23 minutes ago, boostin said:
I had Hankook Ventus V2 Concepts on the 3.0R. Absolute S***. Scared myself more than once in the wet with them, and not much better dry. It could get all 4 spinning with little effort. Early this year I picked up a set of Zetums. Way better, both wet and dry. Apparently they're no longer made though.
The Concept 2s are much better than their predecessor. They are an all season so obviously not as good as a quality summer tyre when it comes to dry grip but they are a good all rounder. Good rain and cold weather performance, ok in the snow and the best all season i've driven in the dry.
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1 hour ago, GC8E2DD said:
Well I actually do need new wheel nuts if you're offering =]
Pm me your address and I'll send a set to you. As long as @chulozumo is fine with that. Otherwise I'll have to toss a coin
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On 24/11/2017 at 8:04 PM, evowrx said:
V7 sti shortblock?
On 25/11/2017 at 6:54 AM, chulozumo said:It's a giant dildo.
Shortblock
On 25/11/2017 at 10:34 AM, GC8E2DD said:^^this
Well a few of you were on the right track.
On 25/11/2017 at 0:28 PM, ADIKT said:Way to big. Mine is in a subaru box a third of the size
My guess is a carbon boot lid
But as ADIKT said the box was definitely too big.
In the box was a used v7 STI long engine with the intercooler, airbox and a few other bits stacked in layers on top hence why the box was so tall. The plan is for it to eventually make it into the gc8 once I have done a little maintenance to it.
@GC8E2DD @chulozumo @evowrx Since you three were the closest, do any of you not want the wheel nuts? Otherwise i'll use a random number generator to pick one of you at random.
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7 minutes ago, Berg said:
Lol 9GAG
9GAG? Is that the origin of the "banana for scale" thing?
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So a pretty big box arrived at my house today. I thought it would be fun to play guess what's in the box. Whoever is first to guess EXACTLY what is in the box will score themselves a free set of black acorn wheel nuts that I will ship to you within NZ (12*1.25 19mm 20 nuts). I may give a second set to a runner up if they were close.
One guess per person. (I will check back tomorrow and see if there is a winner)
Packing description is category "car parts"
Banana for scale.
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I would say that 18*8 +45 would work no problem. With a +35 I would say that it may poke beyond the rear guard could perhaps fit with some work. (24.4mm more poke than v7 STI wheel)
18*8 +45 vs 17*7.5 +53
When compared with v7 sti wheel which fits for me being 10mm wider on either side. As long as you are prepared to roll the rear guard I would say anything up to 8.5 wide with appropriate offset would be fine.
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17 minutes ago, Timmah said:
Crappppp. I am looking at going 18x8.5 on STi struts and Pink springs on my wagon and what I had been looking up it was looking I could get away with that, ah well.
I'd say you'll probably be good with maybe just a roll in the rear. My wheels are sitting wider with the sedan track width and I still think there is room for an 8 inch wide wheel in there with the rear guards rolled. It all depends on the offset.
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2 hours ago, gotasuby said:
Replace the top O ring. They are super common and I bet it will fix your issue
YES! I was trying to remember exactly what commonly leaked. I remembered that is was the top hose connection but I forgot that the o-ring was the problem.
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Yeah not sure on that one. Depends on the type of line and where it was leaking. Could have been leaking at a crimp join.
Most systems will bleed quickly on there own but it is still always best to manually bleed. As I said in the first post your vehicle has a finicky system that is more difficult than most.
There is an air gap at the top of the reservoir so many systems will bleed themselves.
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The P/S pump on the 3.0 engine is an absolute PITA to bleed. There is a lengthy procedure that you have to follow with the car turned off. If the engine is started before all of the air is bled then the the pump quickly foams all of the fluid and the system acts in the way you are currently experiencing, shudders and bad noises from the pump.
The aerated fluid also causes wear to the pump as it does not lubricate it properly.
Once the fluid has foamed you have to wait an hour or more for the fluid to return to normal before you can attempt to bleed it again.
Also it is quite common for the hose on top of the P/S pump to draw air into the system if not fitted correctly which can be hard to detect other than the P/S being impossible to bleed.
Course of action, either take it back to the service station and tell them to check all their connections and bleed it following the proper procedure. If you fancy you could try bleeding it yourself. Or you could take it to a Subaru dealer who have probably done this before but who will obviously charge you more.
I can't remember the specific procedure but it goes something like this.
Engine must be off and fluid must not be aerated (i.e. been off for a while ~1hour).
- Turn the wheel lock to lock 30 times.
- Let it sit for a little while.
- Check fluid level.
- Lock to lock 30 times again.
- Check fluid level.
- Then start it and really hope it doesn't foam again, if it does let it sit for another hour and repeat the process.
That isn't the actual procedure but it is something close to that.
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13 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:
Ruptured radiator on the way to work. Dumped coolant all over the waipuna bridge.
Leaky head gasket. Very small slow leak. But, as the car got a bit warm, the heads need softness check, crack test and checked for straightness.
Planning next steps. Watch this space.
Oh no! Did you get the diff sorted?
I'm interested to see what you plan. You should update your garage thread since it's hard to follow updates in here.
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When the key is in the "on" position but the engine has not been started all of the lights are illuminated to test their function. That is the case in the picture you linked. When the engine is running the lights 'should' go out.
I highly recommend if you are wanting to buy this modified car and you know very little about it, that you get a pre-purchase inspection done by a mechanic familiar with modified Subarus. If you don't know what you are buying it could cost you a lot more money in the future.
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41 minutes ago, Berg said:
It's not how we identify the turbo, it's what the turbo identifies as. I think it might be a trans or bi turbo who identifies as a twin scroll. Or maybe even turbo-fluid. Not all turbo who identify as fluid have a turbo fluid resevoir, it's just how they feel at a particular part of the rev range.
Don't judge.
Edit: some of my best friends are turbos.
I never thought about it that way. Maybe I should have just asked it. 🤔
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1 hour ago, Subru said:
Yeah
I wanna get rid of the amber lights on the fenders, whats the options for that?
Also wanna sort out my Sti light covers...
I just painted the diamond reflector bits gloss black and picked up some oem clear indicators to replace the orange ones.
Looks ok. Better than orange anyway.
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They sell them but usually for stuff like that the price will be like $1500 or something stupid and it will be out of stock lol. Probably best to get pannels locally.
Use google chrome and when it automatically translates change the language from Chinese(simplified) to Japanese. The translations make much more sense then.
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2 hours ago, evowrx said:
Earlier? It's still a vf. Similar or slightly later.
Perhaps I was misinformed but I thought the vf28/29 spooled a little earlier than the vf30 since they have roller bearings vs journal bearing on the vf30
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38 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Being such a small turbo clipping doesnt tend to affect them much. Yes it is done to aid turbine flow which is the limiting factor on the vf stuff.
So it should still spool up earlier than a vf30?
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2 minutes ago, telemekas said:
The VF23-24-28-29 are BB turbos use the the same size compressor wheel and 11 blade turbine wheel. The VF23 has a P20 exhaust housing A/R while the rest have P18.
The code on your exhaust housing is H4 for P18. H3 for P20.
The turbine wheel has been cut back at the exducer which improves exhaust flow and improves top end power but reduces efficiency and consequently spool up.
Cheers for the info!
So that means it is either a vf28 or vf29 (which are basically the same) that has been tinkered with for better top end. I wonder how this compares to a vf30 on the bottom end now.
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12 minutes ago, ADIKT said:
This thread may help
Yeah I had seen that info around in a couple places, very helpful.
It actually rules out vf24, leave only vf23,vf28,vf29 left as possiblities.
9 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:Could have been fettled by merch? He often takes off the original markings on the compressor housing, but then again he normally attached his own Id on it too
Hmmmm... maybe I have to just run it and find out.
I did some brief reading about clipped turbine wheels and supposedly you lose a bit of spool but it gives a slight improvement in holding boost to redline by helping the exhaust housing flow better. Very mixed opinions on whether it is a good idea or not.
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7 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:
Yeah, that whole angle shouldn't be there
I'm basing this off an assumption that these turbos have more or less the same turbine wheels and my old 24 didn't have the blades clipped like that.I guess it could have been done professionally, but to what end?
Interesting.... The turbine looks different to my vf29 also.
Here is a really close up picture I used flash so the lighting is weird. The cuts look so perfect and symmetrical. What would cutting it even gain you?
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Anyone selling A STi?
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You can setup a trademe search to just email with all the new listings that meet your criteria. I have a couple set to email me each day, nice way to keep an eye on the market. It saves having to search each time.