pl0x
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Posts posted by pl0x
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2 hours ago, chulozumo said:
Could pay to let the Mancave post know it's a daily vote and you'll get even more.
I'll be there in the RS as the STI will be sold by then, so i'll keep voting for you guys.
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From what I understand there are a couple of different types of bar & plate FMIC internally. Not sure who supply's what but if i was buying in the future id be asking for an internal photo, not all the cheap ones are "bad".
dense core - slow the flow slightly but cooler charge:
low density core - good flow, less cooling:
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I was wondering if that was going to show up on here. Found another photo on facebook somehow and it had wide mags on the front too which looks better than with the skinny fronts.
It was a few cars ahead of me in the drags at chrome and did an alright burnout, didn't see it out on the track other than that but it could have been on the drift track/burnout pad.
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Replace one tyre, when/if it happens replace the center diff and housing with phase 1 parts from an old stuffed gearbox.
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I've got a V2 wrx with a wire in link G3 which i'm swapping to a BC5.
I've had a look at both pin outs which look the basically the same apart from the intercooler pump. But the wrx doesn't have the original plugs so the pin out doesn't help much.
Has anyone had any experience looking at BC5 vs V1/2 wrx ecu wiring? I'm wanting to know if the color for each wire on the wrx loom has the same use in the bc5 loom.
or does anyone have an ecu wiring diagram for a BC5?
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Oh if its for a kit car.
You will likely use custom intake, so ignore that comment. And i would mount a generic intercooler core somewhere as they are cheaper than the BP5 A/M top mounts
And then yes a link would be the best option.
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Out of curiosity, why wouldn't you just tune using factory ecu?
My thoughts about modding one of these using factory engine and gearbox is:
STI twin scroll turbo (and therefore STI exhaust mani and 3" wide mouth down pipe to suit)
2.5" catback exhaust system
Intake factory unless going to FMIC
A/M top mount intercooler
STI 550cc injectors
A/M fuel pump
Reflash/tune and i would think it would net around 230-240kw
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My RS had cruise control and has a clutch switch, looks exactly the same as the brake switch
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Whats everyones thoughts re fuel pump to net roughly 300kw? Bigger 700hp/400lph in tank rather than the standard 500hp/255lph walbro?
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no, not with modding anyway
you want something like:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-702917210.htm
Edit: by RS legacy I thought you meant BC5, get the right one to match your size
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blocked coolant overflow pipe for a start
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It will fit, just need to make sure the ratio is the same as the rear diff
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ITBs and definately convert to manual
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Got mine for $2
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Yep it sounds like the bolt.
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I wouldn\'t solid mount it. $600 seems a bit much.
It\'s a prick to change yourself, May be ok with a rattle gun & then get a shop to press in. Need to drop rear subframe depending on how your going to do it, which involves a lot of nuts and bolt that have never been undone from factory.
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Keeping old plots and discussion around plot would be good I think. I don\'t have time to maintain the list, hence been untouched by me for a long time.
Also my car is sold also so can come off.
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Cheap waste gate? spring could have gone "saggy". I\'ve had one do something similar before:
Was a 8psi spring with boost control via link, when I first had the car it was fine & no creep (15psi). After a while it would creep till boost cut of 19psi but only when boost control was plugged in, it was fine when only holding 8psi.
It was only a cheap style waste gate & I replaced the spring with a genuine one and it worked fine again.
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I\'ve changed 3 centre diffs and used kitchen knife/Stanley and then three bonded up and never had a leak. Was never overly carefully about getting all the gasket off either. Three bond is good stuff
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So with the price of premium fuel and constant maintenance to my car I\'m quickly learning how much attention my new STI demands... She may only have 90km but the 14 years of age is evident.
**If this is supposed to be under gearbox and drivetrain just let me know and I\'ll move it across. Car is an Impreza so it is relevant either way.**
Recently whilst on the motorway i noticed that my 5th gear was jumping back and forth and in some cases popping out of gear completely. When the gear is engaged it feels fine even when I release the clutch pedal. Only on acceleration does it jump back about an inch and sometimes completely out after i release the accelerator. If it does not jump completely out it just returns to the normal position only to jump back/pop out on acceleration. Last note the gear holds for the duration of the acceleration and then does what it likes on release.
I found this recently http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-transfer-case-removal-5th-6049.html?t=6049 which I have read a bit about and it seems to have worked for a few people so I think that this and some new fluid is a good step in the right direction.
As always any comments are appreciated specially if you have dealt with the issue in the past. If you would like a more thorough description please let me know what it is you would like described and ill do my best to clarify. Cheers.
Also if you have any recommendations on the right oil to use (yes I have read the "suitable oils" thread but other opinion is also good) and how much to use please leave a comment. As for getting the transfer case off It shouldn\'t be too hard. Should it???
I hope to solve this quickly as I have a track day in October. Will be my first time and I\'d just like everything to be right.
Simple fix if you get onto it now as per your link, don\'t leave it to long or it will start to cause other problems and then you will need a new gearbox.
Transfer case is pretty easy to get off, i find putting it back on the painful part. Don\'t use to much force pushing the bearings into place. When it lines up 100% it slides in easy.
Repco oil is made by redline or someone like that anyway so repco manual gearbox fluid will do the trick.
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yea the toyota & mazda do seem over priced compared to the rest.
Leaning towards a accord euro wagon at the mo, bit more power than the legacy and cheaper at lower kms.
price is around 8.5, but didn\'t really want a 3.0 due to fuel costs
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Looking at buying a new car, Station wagon is the only real requirement.
I would like it to be 03+, 2.0L ish, <150kms
Mrs wants auto, I wouldn\'t mind either way
Currently looking at mazda atenza or 6, toyota avensis, lancer es, honda accord, bp legacy. Any other you think are worth looking at?
So far lancer es, accord & legacy\'s are the best price for lower kms, but the lancer is ugly and the accord to a degree.
Anyone had an auto 2.0L n/a legacy? gutless?
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