thewabbit1
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Posts posted by thewabbit1
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6 minutes ago, Subru said:
Got Hub assembly back in car with new bearing and took it back out for a drive. So good driving it after a week of driving a floppy kia people mover...
Although after the drive I came back and there was smoke coming out of the bonnet from under the rocker cover on driver side... no idea what it is, ill just keep an eye on it.
Have you had the rocker cover gaskets replaced? My legacy the same symptoms...
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Try imgur (thats what i use) then just paste the direct link in here (set the size to med or large thumbnail)
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I did sanding then clearcoat
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So I've had a trawl online for these ,but cant get a definitive answer.... What are the cluster bulbs for a rev d BH/BE legacy (blackout cluster)? I've read t5 for the rings but not sure for the others. I seem to recall someone on here changed all theirs. How many of each do you need? I've got one on the ring out, but seeing I'll be back there I might as well change them all
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Got a wof -phew-
I hate getting wofs. Always worried something obscure and expensive will cause it to fail
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damn, that turbo was rooted. Keep up the videos man! be cool to see progress in a vlog format
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I'm no guru on these matters, but talk to whoever built the engine? assuming that it was a performance shop, they should know all the right things to do and be able to do them correctly
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6 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Weird. Maybe they have a partial plate number from a car with a similar colour and shape to yours.
Surely they would actively go after people if they have clear proof of theft.
Yea, went in store and they said it was likely their plate reading software misread my plate
1 hour ago, les666 said:
Do you use the bpme app? I noticed one day that there wasn’t a charge on my card and emailed bp and they said my car was now on the list and I would have to go instore to pay. Apparently if your phone loses connection during the process the payment doesn’t go through and when you activate the pump then you have just 90 seconds to lift the pump or it cancels the process.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk ProConsidered that, however I track every fill and I went back and checked it with my CC bill and they all match. I'd be suprised if i didn't record my fill AND didn't pay.....
Thankfully, once this month is up and i've spent all my BP cents off, i'll be getting some nice juicy 100 octane from NPD
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Massive shout out to Aidan in the CHCH Toyota parts department. Ordered some TRD Brake fluid (Re-labeled Motul RBF 600) through them earlier this week, for $21(incl GST) for 500ml.
Super helpful guy, really friendly and quick, prompt service.
You should be able to get the brake fluid through any Toyota Parts Dept in the country
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Went to fill up my car yesterday at my local BP and got given a card saying my vehicles registration is on the BP Drive Off Hotlist..... They couldn't tell me why when in the store and told me to ring the number on the card. I rang the number and the guy on the phone said my registration wasn't in the system and that I need to go into the store.... I'm a mix of concerned, confused and F***ed off that I feel like I've essentially been labeled as a thief.
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1 hour ago, Individualities said:
Yup. Put an LED in the high stop, and ABS code. And can't read the code without a SubaruSelect scan tool, so I'm just gonna leave it incandescent.
If you know a way around it do tell
41 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:Not sure what the bulb type is for that one, but most have options out there with internal resistors that mimic the loading of a traditional bulb to prevent weird issues like that.
I'm pretty sure it is to do with the resistance. you can get thinfs like these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MCIGICM-50W-6ohm-8ohm-10ohm-8-Pack-Load-Resistors-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Hyper-Flash-Turn/32829835196.html
Not sure how well they'll work
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Do you really want to go for the cheapest parts for something like a cambelt... If it fails, you're gonna have a (not) fun time. Best to get OEM, make sure you do all the idlers, tensioner and the water pump as well
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No, not sure really. When i remove the last bold, the lower arm had heaps of free up and down play, 4-5cms. I don't really know how to judge that
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Spaced out my control arms for a bit more (i think) castor...
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On 5/24/2013 at 11:00 PM, evowrx said:
These are used to increase castor similar to an ALK or using forester bushes on a GC/GF chassis. Car feels flatter in the front end when cornering imo.
These shims are 40x40x10mm with a 14mm hole in the center and mine were knocked up for $20 by a local engineer. See footnote about 10mm+ shims. You need 4 total, 2 for each side.
All you need is:
Jack
Axle stands
1/2" Breaker bar or ratchet
19mm socket
1/2" extension
1) Jack the car up safely or however you like but dont blame me if it falls on your head and hurts.
2)These are the 2 bolts you are packing out.
3)Completely remove the outer bolt (closest to wheel) and loosen the inside one
(closest to gearbox) off so you have approx 15mm movement in the bush.
4)Slide the shim under the outer bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up. Tighten it up but leave about 5mm play so you have roughly 15mm on the inside bolt still.
5)Now remove the inside bolt completely.
6)Slide the shim under the inside bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up.
7)Now tighten up both bolts while making sure the shims stay roughly aligned.
8)Do the same the other side.
9)Note tighten wheel nuts to roughly 110nm.
I didnt have a lot of clearance between the caster bush and the gearbox crossmember mount shown in the pic below. You could make the shim so it would clear but mine worked fine at 10mm. Mine were a bit off centre as they were drilled to 13mm then out to 14mm from there so they were off centre. The mounting bolts are approx 50-60mm long so have more than enough thread to hold up to a 20mm shim I would think.
Seeing that those photos are toast, and I wanted to do it myself, here are some photos...
Also tried to flip this part, but those suckers were on ttiiiiggght. and they sit at an angle where i can only get a spanner on, not a proper socket with some tube....
I'd recommend taking them off the car, and putting in a vice and then removing.
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Also replace the 90d elbows under the TMIC - i noticed a difference with that
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I have a ecu def file for my revd - i'll try remember to share the link to it tonight
EDIT: here's the link to all the ecu stuff i have. there may well be copies of the above in the 'From CS' folder: https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=kZRd417Zn5iU6SKA1BkWDxfvzHs4Xk7s0jnV
'From FB' contains one def file I think
and 'ECU Dump' contains my ECU image, and two def files
It's been a while since I looked at them, but give em a go
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Be interested to see what effect, if any, this will have on BP 98 prices....
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On 6/14/2018 at 6:26 PM, Individualities said:
I'll be in Auckland this weekend, so I might do something to contribute. Was just wondering what the boundaries were (and how far I could stretch them).
I saw your car parked down Fort Lane(?) just near Giapo - i defiantly had a good oogle at it - so nice.... (i'm from CHCH)
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The high current only passess through the switched side of the relay
Edit: whereas if you were just using a switch you'd have that high current in the switch and burn it out.
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Hmmm... I think your way is more or less the same as above..... I'm no electronics guy so take what i'm saying with a pinch or two of salt.
The way your explaining (seems to me) is that your source to liven the switch for the bar is slightly different, by no means is it incorrect. Your solution (with a switch) would allow you to toggle the light bar when your lights are on (as you said). My implementation would only allow for the light bar to be toggled when highbeams are on (which is what OP asked).
All lights in a car will be on relays, t0o risky having a switch carry so much current, plus its easier to replace a broken relay than a whole stalk/switch. The only additional relay to include is the one for the bar, the other one is already in your car
I used this to make the diagram: https://www.circuitlab.com/editor/#
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I'd say that its likely enough has dripped onto something for you too see smoke. Its probably always been smoking and you've never noticed it