jpar196

Hi all, Im in the middle of a turbo swap, and run into a bit of an issue with the oil supply line. The turbo is a kinugawa td06 20g, and it came with a -4an banjo already fitted to the core of the turbo, and came with a braided -4an hose, which is perfect. What is not perfect is that the turbo supply/AVCS line is a 12mm flare. so essentially I need a 12mm flare female to -4an male like this, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Subaru-STI-Oil-feed-12MM-Female-Flare-4AN-/380099923370?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5294610411157160470#ht_643wt_1169 Yes I could take the -4an banjo and just go direct with the stock hardline, but frustratingly the turbo is bloody assembled in a way so that you cant back the banjo bolt out because the wastegate brackets bolt is directly above it (ridiculous) Anyone had a similar issue with this and know where I could get such an adapator locally? Thanks

could be dirty throttle body making it slightly stuck open, had it on my old car before, or if the throttle cable is too tight take the intercooler off and see if there is black sludge built around the tb plate, and clean with carby cleaner

Im in the same boat, upgrading injectors. Im thinking either http://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/INJSDWRX or http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/denso-1000cc-direct-fit-fuel-injector pretty much the same price, anyone had experiences with either? reading upon Fiveo feedback and it seems to be mixed, cant find any on the siemens.

So, couple of weeks ago I was bleeding my brakes after changing my brake pads, and by mistake I let the master cylinder run dry : I know,, So I just added more brake fluid and re bled, the calipers obviously started farting out the air while doing this, The pedal is pretty firm and no issues with stopping, but just wondering if this is fine as it is ?? Im pretty sure I did suck in a lot of air lol Or should I be taking it to a mechanical to get it properly bled from scratch ? thanks

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=425410090

yeah will probably just carefully grind it off from the nut end. hopefully once I remove the remaining thread and start grinding in to the stripped part it will hammer out.

nope the rear bolt and nut. the nut or the bolt is not rounded. I can turn them fine. It must be stripped within the bolt and it will not loosen nor tighten, even if I turn it a million times if that makes sense.

So I was on my last corner installing lowered springs this afternoon, on the 2nd to last 19mm nut and bolt of the rear suspension, while tightening to 145 foot pounds as per the manual, it decides to strip( not the bolt head or the nut, pretty sure its stripped in the middle of the bolt where the nut is) and keeps turning and turning but wont tighten nor loosen so Im a bit stuck here lol Anyone had a similar issue before? only option I can think of is carefully angle grind off the nut or bolt head, or drill through the bloody bolt until all the material is gone. Are subaru bolts normally this crap? or may be my torque wrench is out, but surely I thought this shouldnt happen, given I had to put in some serious force with the 600mm breaker bar to break it loose ? ? any help would be greatly appreciated,, *sigh* lol

I bought mine from here. http://www.kakumei-motorsports.com/ got them in like a week after the order.

Sl8r, they should come with all gaskets, down and up pipe, multi layered, and all studs to go into the up pipe as well, Mine definitely did. thanks

I dont have the SSI headers, but try looking up Kakumei headers etc, you will see they are actually identical, also identical to the genuine tomei headers. I have one myself, cant fault the quality. welds are beautiful, piping is nice and beefy, the joins are also very very well made, mating surfaces are 100% flat, fitment is good and so on. The only thing I had to do with my car was notch out a tiny bit from the chassis where the headers were rubbing under load.

definitely fits, I bought a genuine v6 lip for my v5, fit like a glove.

Thats Strange, Ive got a Rage system in my V7 and its surprisingly quiet, and thats a full 3" from downpipe with 1 resonator in the middle with ss muffler at the back, removable silencer. with the silencer it sounds almost stock

Aha, so might be worth finding from the fuse box which one doesnt cutout during cranking and pull the wire from there to the gauge. You might say Im picky but the gauges turning on , then turning off again, then turning on again bugs me lol. Ill tut the 12v tester to the various fuses and see which one will work for me. thanks guys

Yeah I thought so, my previous cars didnt do it I dont think,,,, Is there any way to keep the power ?

Does anyone know if there is a way to stop the radio turn off momentarily when you crank the car ? Everytime I turn my keys to ON, then crank the car the radio will shut off then switch back on again. And the gauges will annoyingly do the ceremony again,, Car is V7 STi. Is this suppose to do this, and is there any way of stopping it from going off during cranking ? Thanks

Im getting around 500kms per tank, which would be around 50L or just over, so Im getting 9.5km to every litre, Im not complaining, but does that sound unusually good mileage? car is V7 STi with full exhaust and walbro fuel pump. everything else is stock.

Has anyone used this ? looks very similar to the Subaru upper engine cleaner, just wondering if anyone has had experience with these and if they saw similar results to the subaru uec. thanks

I recently did this repair using Ricks sensors, they are great, and could see why the factory sensors were leaking and these were not going to leak. Pull the big plug by the drivers tower and if there is oil in there I sugguest checking the ECU plugs. the 2nd plug from bottom in my ECU had a very very thin film of oil in it, so hoping i have found it early. anyways its good to prevent it from tracking oil further into the ECU. the sensors were quite a task to get in, but after a lot of stressing and swearing I can say that its possible without removing the manifold,,, although I had my doubts during the swap,,lol for $180 I would say its worth the hassle,,

yeah, its just easier to see, youtube champagne test and you can see nice rotary champagnes which would mean you're buggered (if you have a rotary which means complete tear down)

in the interest of preventing leaks, anyone know the part number for the copper washers? or the correct size to use ? would be just handy to have then before the removal rather than rushing off to find one that fits

google or youtube champagne test, you stick a funnel tight in the radiator cap, fill it with water/coolant, and if continuous bubbles comeout like a fizzy drink, your headgasket would be leaking exhaust gases in to the cooling system, ie headgasket buggered.

Cant you do the old champagne test like the rotary engine to check you head gasket is blown ? I thought that would be the easiest and quickest way of telling ?

yeah for sure, so at the moment you don't know how to mod the sensors right ? gonna check for oil in the ECU connectors, crossing my fingers it hasnt gone that far,,

Sweet, will need to do that, do you know if removing the filter then will stop the oils travelling in to the ECU looms ?? not smart design for oil to allow to go to the ECU