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Firenza last won the day on December 31 2019

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  1. I get yours is a STi RA, they don't have a catalogue for that, but the WRX RA should be the same dash, and the Type R would be the same as yours with seats that can fold forward. The page with the coupe on it shows a options matrix that has the STi RA with the same options available as the other similar cars, so I'd say you're safe to assume it should be black. I'm surprised yours has faded so badly though, i didnt think the v4+ dash was bad for that kinda thing
  2. This is what the OEM v5 brochure had in it. The interiors don't show much grey tbh. Is yours a V-limited or a different special edition?
  3. Sorry, but you put; The way you wrote that would mean you can use ANY filter that fits, which is wrong. If what you meant to say was that he could use whichever one out of the two options then yes, he can. There's a difference between the meanings of whichever (being whatever one or ones out of a group) and whatever (anything or everything) Either way, we're on the same page, OP needs to fit the right one specified for his car, but depending on specs can choose from a couple of options
  4. Yes and no, if you end up getting one with a pressure release valve rated wrong you'll end up doing some damage.
  5. Now, i'm not sure about the OEM numbers without having the vehicles details, but I can tell you what I have found with my WRX which is similar age. The older 90's subarus had a larger Tokyo Roki filter (Ryco p/n Z79x, Fram TG3593A). Some time early "00 they changed to the smaller black filter (Ryco Z436, Fram TG6607) which is what that 15208AA100 number crosses to. Now, I buy genuine filters for my cars via Partsouq, and both are now listing the same smaller body filter as IIRC they have stopped making the older style. I'd assume someone previously has used the newer size filter, however because the aftermarket still makes them, this time you have been given the older size. Now while there is a slight size difference is the seal size, it isn't much that should make an issue (as always however, it is up to you to make sure they filter will fit If you can get me the filter number that they gave you I can check it and see if I can cross it over.
  6. Just the Mothers California Gold 3 step stuff. Compound, polish then wax using a Maguires DA drill polisher addon. I was going to try sanding, if you look at the posts above you'll see that mine weren't that bad starting out. We'll see how long it lasts, hopefully the wax will make a difference. On other cars with worse hazing I've used Autosol metal polish to great effect, but you have to use a separate UV coating to stop it going bad again after a few months
  7. Merry Christmas to you too! My spoolie boy is quiet and easy to forget so I should be fine On a more "what I did to my car today" note; I noticed my headlights looked dull in the horn photos, so polished them to be clear. Didnt realise how bad they were til you've done the first one and you're standing there comparing them
  8. Does your car makes nasty scraping sound when you wind down the windows, or maybe you've got scratches down your windows already? The issue is caused by the buffers the window is secured by getting worn and full of ingrained dirt like so; You'll need; * a Subaru with frameless windows (any will work mostly the same way, but this guide is for BP/BL Legacies) * socket set (mainly a 10mm) * medium JIS/Philips screwdriver * small flat head * old toothbrush * graphite powder (i got mine from repco years ago, but you can also get it from Mitre10) Step 1; First start by putting the window down. Once you've removed the door card you wont be able to without having to replug it, and thats a pain you don't need to bother with. Remove the door card, you'll have 3 screws, one behind a panel behind the chrome door handle, and two behind the door pull trim. For the one behind the chrome door handle, first hold the handle open and insert the flat head in the small opening at the top of the panel behind the handle. Try to push down to flex the panel and it should pop out. The door pull trim is a pain to remove. It is probably the hardest part of this whole thing. You'll need to pull the top of the handle towards you and kinda twist it in the direction of the dashboard. (if looking down at the handle on the drives side twist Counter-clockwise, and for the passenger side twist Clockwise Then there are many clips, lift the card up and clear of the door, and disconnect a couple of connectors. To disconnect the chrome door handle, open the hatch, unclip the two actuator cables (the top one for the lock, the bottom for the handle) from the housing and rotate the cable so the ball at the end can be removed from the handle Step 2; You'll have two metal backed buffers (green) on the inside of the window that are held in by one 10mm bolt, and two plastic backed buffers (blue) clipped on the outside of the window that you remove by pulling both sides in to unclip it. If you have the Mcintosh headunit make sure you don't drop them as the door is covered in sound deadening and will be a pain to reattach neatly. Step 3; Restore the buffers. I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pull up the pile, being careful not to damage the pile or the backing material. Once there is nothing left flattened get a old toothbrush and carefully brush it to remove the dirt. You can try wetting it, but i've found that just causes it all to clump together. Before; After; Once it looks clean you should add some graphite powder to the buffer to aid as a lubricant (you don't want something wet like silicon as it'll leave a trail on the window, and also hold dirt and make it fail again all the sooner. Step 4; Reinstall!! When you removed the inner buffers it should of left some witness marks to where it was installed at the factory. Try and put them back where they were and it should hold the window nice and secure. Otherwise reassembly is the reverse as removal. Once its back together make sure the window will go up and down and the door will shut and you should be done.
  9. The way I looked at is that there are much higher strung cars then mine, in much warmer countries running them and they're fine. Also most modern cars take the bulk of their air flow through the vent below the numberplate. Also they are spaced about an inch away from the radiator, and that should allow air to flow around them rather then stopping flow completely. Having them out in the open does make a difference. Stock my car has shell horns which normally would be quite loud, but they're hidden down in the wheel well behind the bumper.
  10. Did the stereotypical Subaru mod and fitted the Hella supertones, but adult part of my brain made me make them stealthy Also replaced one of the front axle seals as its was leaking, but didnt bother taking photos of that!
  11. Got some new tyres. The Laufenns that came on the car were both quite worn, and very sh*t. Some Continental MaxContact 6s work much better. Bit over kill for an outback, but better too good then not good enough. Also I cleaned it, looks less homeless now
  12. West Harbour Marina - took a while to find a time where there wasn't people sitting in cars on the ramp New one
  13. On all they BPs ive had, if you roll the dimmer back to the last click itll lock the brightness into day brightness if the headlights are on :s all my 3 were facelift ones tho
  14. Drove up a mountain, found a snowy carpark and did some donuts (snonuts?)
  15. Did you sell these in the end?