Firenza

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Firenza last won the day on February 8

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About Firenza

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  1. Congratulations on the new car, Generally, on a turbo subaru, 98 octane minimum. They can usually cope with using 95 in pinch, but you risk pre-ignition/knock if you give it a boot full. The ecu can adjust, but only so much, and its harder to compensate under heavy load. There are ways you can tune the car the compensate beyond what the car itself can do, but I personally haven't played around with that, my GC8 is still running what it left Japan with 14 years ago. Might be good to ask about in the tuning sections, or have a talk to someone like PBMS and see what they can suggest, especially if you're wanting to increase power, as just wacking up the boost and fanging it is a good way of breaking something. 😛
  2. I'm rather interested to find out what they put it, as the 5eat is the BP/BL series at least doesn't use anything too special, instead just using something that meets the Subaru/Idemitsu ATF HP rating. I've checked on a few oil selectors, and so far Castrol, Fuchs and Penrite all have oils they recommend. Be interesting to see what Oil supplier they use to know to steer away from!
  3. Getting a replacement your best bets are either Strong For Subaru (https://strongforsubaru.com), Dodsons (https://dodsonautospares.co.nz). Subwrecks (http://www.subwrecks.co.nz/) There was one in hamilton, but I can't remember what they were called. I've only dealt with the first two, and both have been pretty good to deal with in the past. It might be worth putting in some research, as you might find it had to find a trans with the exact code you have, but you can sometimes use a similar one as long as the wiring, and gear ratios match. Have you thought about getting it rebuilt but an interdependent trans company instead? I know winger have sent tranmissions to Kaspa before to get rebuilt, and just added their mark up on top. Swapping the trans is fairly easy i'd assume (note - i'm basing this on the 4eat, and 5sp manual transmissions i've installed before), as the orientation of our engines mean the transmission is sitting there in the transmission tunnel as apposed to in the engine bay like a average car. You'd want to get it up high enough in the air, and I would assume the 5eat would be a fair bit heavier then the 4eat i've removed from cars before.
  4. Alas, i don't have space for a welder, but can just about fit a drill in the hovel I have as a garage! I did think about trying to get someone else to do it, but managed to fix it with stuff I had laying around. I'm just happy theres something for people to search, When I tried searching for symptoms, I found lots with the same issue, but not much about fixing it. Hopefully this will help people try themselves, rather then just leaving it as is and being uncomfortable
  5. Does the base of your seat feel loose on one side? Does the height adjustment only work on one side? Well, turns out subaru seat bases aren't as strong as they should be, and if you sit on them the wrong way, you'll bust the spot welds off the frame, leading to one side of the front of the seat squab flapping about. Hopefully it broke in a useful spot, otherwise I hope you enjoy being uncomfortable! 😛 Heres how to fix it, you will need; Socket Set 2x small bolts, washers, and nuts Drill + drill bits a bit bigger then the bolt threads Reaming tool Magnetic Pick-up tool Step one, look at this image, everything circled is important Step Two, Remove the seat There are 4x 14mm bolts holding the seat into the car (Circled in RED) you'll have to move the seat back and forward to get to all of them. Once thats done move the seat base as far forward as it can go, and the backrest to straight up to make it easier to remove the seat from the car disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal to disperse any latent power and you can then tilt the chair forward and disconnect the 2 connectors (circled in GREEN) Then carefully remove the seat from the car and place it on something soft. Step Three, Located your busted welds The two spot welds (location circled in ORANGE) that hold the front of the seat will have busted off on one side (or both if you're REALLY unlucky) Good Weld BAD WELD! Same from above, totally busted Step Four, Fix the weld. The bracket that has busted off, will be part of a assembly that hold the seat in place, and as its busted will be super loose. Every time i've seen it, the metal work holding the seat cushion is left with two nice round holes perfect for putting a bolt through, leaving you with the job of drilling holes in the bracket to match. Do your best to brace the bracket, and drill two new holes. Try to get them as central to the location of the welds as possible, but if you drill larger holes and use washers you can give yourself a bit of leeway Once thats done, use the reaming tool to clear out the left over material from inside the bracket, as if left you'll end up having to squash it when you tighten up the bolts, and as theres no easy access, you may not have enough torque to pull it flat. it'll still work, but you may have to go back and tighten it up again. Use the magnet tool to recover as much metal dust as you can that fell into the seat to save it getting into the mechanisms, and the carpet once you turn it back over. Step Five, Replace the seat You just removed it, do the reverse and you should have a seat in the car bolted down that doesn't flex, and you can now enjoy(?) the feeling of lifted thighs!! Make sure to test the seat through its full range of movement before you bolt it in, as if somethings gone wrong you'll both save having to unbolt it, but also if its loose you may get away with just making a noise rather then snapping something.
  6. There are multiple options, but your trans code will be found on the black sticker found at the bottom of the B-pillar when you open the passenger door. Alternatively you you know your chassis code I can tell you what Subaru reckon it should be
  7. Found some old stock at work, and so set about de-oranging the indicators. Also found on of the sidelights was out, so replaced it with some Narva Cool White LEDs to match the HID low beams. Also cleaned it, ran some Subaru Upper Engine cleaner though it, and gave it a service
  8. Those would be on the V3 onward, that one should have the 2 pot fronts with the 277mm front disc. Easy enough to upgrade if you wanted to
  9. The A/C is standard fit on STis, only optional on the RA. Theres a separate plastic cover for the ac compressor
  10. The applied model code for GF8-015083 is GF8C58D (build date 21/09/95) which comes up with this https://legacypic.uk/identification/index.php?appliedModel=gf8c58d So yea, seems to be legit. It has the correct seats and door cards, and the centre boss with with STI embossing is uncommon. I'd check the engine numbers to see if they match as who knows whats in it as it looks like its been modded a bit given it running the wrong expansion bottle and they've removed the A/C. Otherwise, looks pretty good
  11. Fitted a Cusco Brake Master brace today, again overkill for an outback, but I had to tutu with the at least a little bit over the long weekend Also got the WRX cleaned and WOF'd. Its been months since I drove it last, i'm just glad I remember how to drive a manual!
  12. The rubber part is available as a spare part, so if you feel capable taking off the trim, you could replace it. The part number is 91713AJ000
  13. Found a filthy Zerosports deflector cheap on Trade me on the weekend. Finished restoring it at work today and couldn't resist putting it on. Totally unneeded for an outback, but it looks cool and matches the intake pipe 😛 Just need to find the Radiator deflector and my both my turbo subarus will have matching engine bay mods 🤣
  14. For a 4th gen (BR) Outback/Legacy you should be okay with leaving it as is. Its a bit ugly, but it wont leak unless something else has gone very wrong! The panel your looking at that has the seal on it is actually a removable of trim. The rubber seal is just to stop it making noise when it touches the window. So the piece with the subaru badge on it and the chrome strip is what I'm on about (this one has an extra stick on spoiler, but its the same deal) This is the exact same boot lid minus the trim. As you can see there is a mark running along the window where the trim makes contact with the glass, meaning the window itself actually goes lower down behind it for a bit. So even if that seal was missing completely, worst that would happen is that the water would run down to the number plate, as the lights have a seal too. So unless waters starts to run upwards, you should be fine