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Firenza last won the day on July 4

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  1. Firenza


    The fully synthetic one, you wouldn't want to use a mineral oil on something like this. Hpr5 would be fine, as it uses what penrite call "extra 10" so it should behave like a 5w30. And it's on sale at the moment at repco iirc.
  2. Firenza


    I would, i've had two BP legacies, one N/A one that had 270k and my current turbo one has 240k, and both are run on 5w30 (Fuchs Flex 23 to be precise). However my WRX which has only 220k on it runs 10w40 (Penrite HPR10) HOWEVER this is a general recommendation. Thats because it depends on how worn certain parts of your particular engine are that were caused by many factors from before you even owned it. Thats why i've ended up using two different grades for essentially the same engine on my cars. If you do try the recommended 5w30 it would be worth checking the oil level regularly (say every fuel fill for a few weeks, and then maybe once a week if everything seems fine). If you notice the engine consuming oil, then it would probably be better going back to the thicker grade next oil change, but if you see no change after 5000k or so then you should be fine to continue checking the oil as you would normally, And then you can continue on using a oil that would allow your engine to work more efficiently.
  3. Finally found the cause of my burnt oil smell, after replacing the rocker cover gasket to no improvement dug in further and found... a leak from the Cam Cap. So a bit more difficult then the rocker cover then Got it finished, and put a new Timing Kit and Water Pump I had as I was in there (taking the AVCS cam pulleys were a c*nt even with the proper subaru tool don't believe the videos on youtube!) Then drove it to Whangarei as a test. So far so good it seems, no more leak onto the exhaust manifold. Also finally managed to complete my Genome gauge install, as the supplied sandwich plate wouldn't fit. So went to pick a part to grab an adaptor to install it into the engine block. Then had to steal the pressure off my WRX as it turned out the supplied pressure sensor didn't work Still, theyre up and running now, and they look good and allow me to track how the car is going which is what I want.
  4. Its tidier, and a lot more accurate. IIRC cyl 3 is the one that gets the hottest, so thats the one you want to track anyway. If you don't have the threaded bung, you can grab one off any subaru pretty much from pick a part, as the same one is used for the oil pressure sensor under the alternator on every EJ motor.
  5. On my black face set of Lamco gauges, mine is oil temp. I can't say I have ever seen one measuring air temp before. What range of tempratures does yours read? If its the same range as wabbits ones that seems very low for oil I should have the guide i used to install mine somewhere on my other pc. What kind of wiring are you missing? Usually theyre like this.. And that installs in between the radio harness. Then just a hose into the engine bay off a tee from boost line for the boost gauge, and then a sensor for oil temp. Either the Lamco style ones which replaces the sump plug (which isnt the best as it can get easily damaged and also can be cooled by air flowing over it at speed) or using a defi sensor and using the bung off the back of the engine block under the intercooler.
  6. As far as I'm aware Defi is what you're looking for. I got mine from North Shore Toyota (which is the Defi agent near me) but dpending on what sensor you're missing you can get aftermarket made Defi Sensors off eBay, and sometimes they appear on trademe. Which Lamco set did you get? I'm after another set to match the ones in my WRX
  7. Holy crap, i'm sitting on a goldmine! !
  8. Pretty sure the fronts will fit, but I'd assume the rears wouldn't as the back end would be heavier in a wagon. Also make sure they're in good nick. Bilsteins can get knocky after about 10 years
  9. Looks very nice, the bodykit can't be too common either! I was going to go for one of those, but had to go outback for the tow rating (....but then I never fitted a tow bar ) Must have been cared for when it came into NZ given its got a set of michelins on it. Unfortunately I can't decode your applied code at the moment, id be interested to see what its spec'd like.
  10. What happens if you shut the turbo timer off early with the remote?
  11. Remembered that I had several sets of STi pedals sitting in the garage, so mashed together an Auto GC/GF and a manual BP/BL set to make a set up for the wagon, and now have a set for the WRX too if i decide to get rid of the V7 pedals i have fitted at the mo. Weirdly I have a cover that looks like it fits the foot rest, but the instructions make no mention of it, so can't figure out how to fit it. So if anyone knows let me know
  12. More superfluous mods for an Outback. Managed to find a Prova Eifel carbon intake duct ( Dunno if it gives any more power, but it looks flash as fk XD
  13. I think anything 90s and enthusiast focused is going up. People who wanted one when they young are now older and have a bit of money, and the supply is less and so prices go up. Same happened with older cars like 60's Falcons and Commodores, and will always happen pretty much. Thats also mixed with the fact that 90s stuff is the last era of analog cars, that are every day usable. You can still have bluetooth and aircon and a bit of safety without everything being tied into the ECU.
  14. The bendix ultimates are a track capalble pad, so a tad over what you need, and why they will be dusty. Would be worth checking out the rest of bendix range I have their General CT pads in my turbo outback and they're quite good daily driving and for the odd blat. Otherwise I've used TRW pads and they were very good, even coping with a track day at Hampton Downs (though they were pretty shagged by the end, but that was over what they were ment for !) If you want something more specialist EBC pads work quite well. Ive got the EBC Yellows in the WRX now, and i've know people use them and the greens to great effect, but they can be a little costly.
  15. I have a spare facelift unit in Auckland if you want to give it a try after the lock downs finished. Its out of a NZ new legacy, but should still work fine, at least to try. Otherwise, for now, all you can do is check the fuses if its died completely, otherwise its multimeter out time 😛