McDoof

Could that be a repeat of the 9th of September possibly.

Installed a new 265lph fuel pump, filter and strainer. Took the car for a good fang out to Huna Falls. Now to get a steady supply of Ethanol.

Sorry. That pic was the first thing that I thought of when I saw the E46 with the Cessna wing

My guess would be AFM too. Had that on my rev A. Although it would fire up a CEL at the same time. The other possibility is bad fuel.

I think you are mistaken What you really like is this.

A bit of googling and the claimed reasons are "Dual Layout: Dual tube design instead of expanding main pipe diameter, avoids torque loss, increases throttle response, and provide enough muffler height clearance from the ground." Apparently it also has a nice deep sound.

That's just weird

Where did the tubes go to?

I always found that searching through the Repco clearance section on the website was good for finding a decent HU at a discount price. Normally about half of retail. But anyway, def go with separate channels for each. I had the same amp about 12 years ago powering 2 6x9s and a sub. It got the job done.

http://kir016268.kir.jp/App_photo/manual/PRXSU-001.pdf

Local support too, so that would be a good option too.

That is weird. Looks like an X pipe after the twin resonators. So 1->2->X->2->1

If you are after an e-tune you will need to get hold of a Tactrix cable. Either buy one from http://www.tactrix.com or see if anyone on the forum in Christchurch is willing to lend you one. I'm happy to help with that if you are in Auckland. Then you need to pick a tuner. I have only dealt with 2 of them. One is Matt Mcleod who is, in my opinion a bit of a Subaru genius, he is one of the few than can actually still write ECU definitions if your ECU definition has not been published. BUT he can be a bit hard to get hold of at times. Either message throttlehappy on this forum or KiDo_Tuning on the Aus Liberty forum. He is based out of Coffs Harbour in Aus. $400 for the tune. The bonus is free re-tunes for the life of the car if you make any mods etc. The other is Dave from Cryotune, he seems to be pretty good for the turbo cars, he tuned a 2007 auto GT for a mate of mine and it's pretty bloody fast. Not so great with NA cars though. He's got a bit of a website http://www.cryotuneperformance.com/ETuning.php and he is a bit cheaper but I think he charges for updates if you mod your car. I'm sure there are a lot more of these around. I think if you get a Subaru, you NEED to do this. I am so much happier with my car because if having it tuned.

I'm just stirring the pot. :-)

Lets say that the diff will survive. The next question is. How is the handling and driving experience affected by having a centre diff that is always partially engaged (assuming a pair was replaced) or if you are replacing only one would you do it at the front or rear. Personally, if I had to do only one I'd put it at the back. I imagine hitting standing water with different tread depths on the front could be interesting.

Very cost effective..... If you have the tools, knowledge and time to do it yourself. Otherwise maybe not so much.....

A flat tyre reduces the diameter of the wheel so this means a smaller rolling circumference.

That's actually a very good question. Especially on those with a bigger tyre profile. I think the difference is less marked on a low profile tyre because the side walls are generally quite stiff.

Not scaremongering, just sharing the experience that I have had. I did mention in my original post that it was on VW and that I have a pet hate for different tyres, so my bias goes towards having the same rubber on all 4 corners.

My failure was not on a Subaru to be fair. It was a VW where it runs in FWD until it detects a speed differential and then engages the rears. I am guessing that this has something to do with why it started to make funny grinding noises. You can probably get away with some degree of different rolling circumference though without it going bang.

Not really a flaw, it just comes with the territory on an AWD car. I made the mistake on my old MK2 Golf Syncro which also has a viscous centre diff. Blew the diff within about 2 weeks. Some of the later Automatic Subarus may be able to handle it better due to having a trickery electronic centre diff. Personally I would only ever do all 4 ,but that is because I have some amount of OCD and really hate having tyres that are different. If money really is tight then you can probably get away with just doing 2, but I think over time you may have issues. If it comes down to it, then pick up a set of ATR Sports for next to no money for new tyres (go with a 225 45 18 rather than the stock 215 45 18 they fit the stock rim, are heaps cheaper and also make your speedo almost accurate) and sell the 3 good ones you have on TM if they are worth selling.

Depends on budget to some extent. Start with a tune and 3rd cat delete. Both will change the tone for the better without making it much louder. If you have a bit of budget then look at some mufflers and/or headers. Don't go crazy on big flowing mufflers though. They will most likely drone. If you just want some tone then look into something like STI quad tips. The come up used once in a while but are stupidly expensive new. Headers will give you a more Porsche esque sound and a bit of a power boot too. A good tuner should be able to reduce cruising drone in most cases anyway. The stock mid section is actually very good at keeping drone down too. If you take that out its very difficult to shut it up again.

I know where that is. Just haven't had a chance to head up there with the car.

Nah but they look pretty good Pretty sure the are the same inside as the 3.0R

Pretty sure you can get different boost maps per setting on SI drive. Not really something you can retrofit though.