Durty-Sanchez

You keep replacing the sensors, yet it keeps coming up.. maybe it's a bad electrical connection between the sensors and the ECU (or as you mention, maybe the ECU itself)? Cam/crank sensors aren't really wear and tear parts, so from new they should last several years. The fact that it initially only happened on a hill has me backing bad wiring connection somewhere

Nah, it's inside the black box you can see there bottom left of the picture (the thing with all the hoses going in to it)

I'm fairly sure you'll find it in the black box (of doom) attached to your drivers side strut tower. From memory it's one of the larger solenoids located near the center-top

Thanks Glen, I think we have the same service manual! Looks like 1998-2003 Liberty ECU's were different from the JDM versions, which is fantastic.. Found them (i think)

Hi all, Am having trouble tracking down the ECU Pinouts for the 99 B4 Legacy. I have the 2003 service manual, but the ECU section doesn't seem to match the ECU I have here. The one I have is a 3-plug (4th plug hole has no pins). Anyone know the pins for this year ECU? Thanks! Edit: I would settle for WRX pinouts of the same vintage

They were just a limited run before subaru started using Denso ECU's, no one could be bothered going through the hassle of working out how to do it I guess. Although it's not that hard, it appears you use a similar technique to the Denso's. I've got one lying around at home that I keep meaning to fire up and try get a reflash working. Anyway, ECUTeks prices are crap for what they offer and the end result. Although a ECUTek tune is cheaper than having to buy aftermarket ECU/controller and then get that tuned, they are still shafting you royally compared to what some companies are starting to offer. SpeedTech here in Wellington offer reflash tunes cheaper than ECUTek. Also, ECUTek lock your ECU so only they can access it for re-flashing from then onwards. That just seems like shady business practice IMO. There's no doubt that tuning to suit physical mods is a great way to get the most out of them, but there are far better alternatives to doing so than signing your ECU and wallet away to this outfit.

1. Twin turbos are as reliable as any other turbo car, maybe even more so as they don't tend to attract buyers who will trash them. 2. They are tuned from factory to run on whatever fuel you put in to them. Obviously higher octane fuels are better for turbo engines, but your computer will adjust itself to operate on whatever you give it. Use 98 or 95 though, because even the computer cant compensate for crap 91 gas. 3. Your ECU can be remapped, but not currently in this country. Torque Performance purchased a ECUTek licence to re-flash your ECU but will make you pay royally for the privilege. Also, these re-flashes will lock your ECU so that only they can make adjustments to it in the future. You have been warned! Alternatively, there are many free re-flashing tools available for 2000+ vehicles that only require you to buy a cord for around $100. Some tune shops can do this for you also at a much lower cost than TP/ECUTek, and will not lock your ECU so you can have a go yourself or take it to someone else in the future. In summary: Nice car, lots of fun, definitely buy one, don't take it anywhere near TP/ECUTek unless yours grows on trees

Mines tuned to run on 95 and even then I could push it past factory for the timing, not even close to detonating at low-mid load points. Sure 95 isn't the ideal fuel, but I still think it gets a bad wrap IMO. Pumping your brake pedal will do SFA. The capacitor that stores the power to keep the volatile memory alive lives past the voltage regulator circuit, which is a bit of a one way street for electrons. Either short the capacitor or leave the ECU without power overnight, maybe longer, that'll do the trick!

Depends how old your car is.. I believe from 1998~2000 onwards the ECU's started trying to advance the timing again after a while. This was about the same time as the 'remove the ECU/battery to wipe the memory' stopped working as it stored most values in non-volatile memory. I had no idea 95 was thought of as such a scummy gas..

Get a bucket or container (ie kitchen ones) that have litres/milli litres marked on them, you'll need this as an indication that the injector is flowing near it's rated value. You'll then need to rig the injector up to a fuel pump/regulator that matches that in your cars setup. Apply 12v (100% on) to the solenoid for a given period of time and compare how much gas ends up in the container to how much you would expect. i.e. 440cc injectors are supposed to flow 440cc (440mL) a minute. If you let it run for 2-3 minutes you'd then expect 1.32 litres of gas in your container (the longer you leave it running the more you can average out the flow over the time period to get a more accurate idea of the injectors actual flow rate). Some warn about placing an injector on at 100% (using DC 12v) though incase the injector sticks/shorts out, so it may be an idea to create a pulse circuit to drive the injectors at 90-95%, as your ECU would be unwise to push much past this anyway. If you can't be bothered rigging up the above test-setup with fuelpump, petrol supply, fuel line. regulator, pulse circuit, etc. then i'm sure there are folks around who flow-test injectors all the time who could do this no worries.

Yep, run a 2-2.5 inch off the secondary turbo past the firewall, then flange it. Then flange the secondary side of the y-join. That way you can run a removable piece of piping between the secondary downpipe and the y-join for WOF times, the rest of the time you can remove the pipe and blank the y-join flange - instant fun.

How about flagging an external on the secondary turbo - mostly because that turbo doesn't even run a wastegate currently on your model GTB. Instead, run your secondary turbo as the external wastegate. Leave the primary side stock and then run a downpipe off the secondary past the firewall, then vent it to atmosphere or whatever you want to do. You'd have normal, quiet primary operation, which is always nice. But once you hit the secondary the exhaust would vent to atmosphere and get stupidly loud, secondary spool would be about as fast as you could achieve, and the VOD would be well reduced. Not to mention you'll be getting just as many classy Waipukurau women as if you had a 'tang. It'd probably even improve performance, something that an external alone wouldn't do. Best bit is (if it passes a WOF), it'd only be audiable once you push it on to the secondary.

Sometimes the contacts on the stick can go crappy.. just incase this isn't related to the aircon. Otherwise one thing that I've noticed is the huge connector block under the dash (drivers side) that is held together with a big fcukoff bolt had come loose (in my car) over it's 15yr life time. I had lost several cabin items and reverse lights to boot until I got under there and tightened that bastard back up.. might be worth looking at

'50' SMD fuses are rated at 2A (Fusable current of 5A) .. +1 on the slow blow type Edit: I found the datasheet for this badboy (I think) .. might help in the search

At a guess it looks like it's a EMI supression diode. You usually need them to save the life of the rest of the circuitry after the solenoids magnetic field collapses and sends voltage surges through the system. Have a peek here http://www.suregripcontrols.com/install_suppress.htm .. a 1N4004 should do the trick, I can't imagine it'd go over 1A or 1000V

All the above + AFM. Check for error codes

Sure does - leave it off for 24hrs, and this will only work with pre-2000 cars fo'sho. After 2000 it may save it's junk in non-volatile memory

If the ECU's getting power but it's not putting anything out the ignition signal wires then it probably doesn't have the crank/cam sensor data it needs .. might be worth checking anyway.

If it only has 2x ignition wires then it probably runs a wasted spark setup (ie one ignition wire signals 2x coilpacks to fire - one on combustion stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke so spark does nothing). If you're putting a STI ecu in to a TT then you'll have to keep the STI's wasted spark setup and split each ignition signal wire from the ECU to go to the 2 appropriate coilpacks. Might be an idea to run V3/4 coilpacks just incase the TT coils aren't up to being fired so often.

Crikey.. I paid $630 for the last cambelt, idler, tensioner + water pump from the local mechanic.

So what was the problem, FTR?

You're a bit of a douche.

I usually put in 4.6-4.7L to take into account for oil getting stuck to the side of the funnel/container/etc. I've accidentally over filled it before and on both occassions it was followed by a leaking crank seal.. could be a coincidence, but I'm very carefull these days!

My hint is careful with the vac hoses - brittle bastards tend to shatter or bend the aluminium pipes

Previous owners hacked out my black connectors (why, I do not know). The official upper engine cleaner you can get from Subaru themselves, none of this oil/fuel additive rubbish