blitzd808
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Posts posted by blitzd808
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16 minutes ago, Inked said:
Yeah the Tomei M8265 is great! however has been discontinued - I have a mate here in welly who has about 280kw on 98 and 320ish with e85.
They have the smaller option available also which i am sure would be ok but you are rite the price is up there not much more for a EFR
To right! However, looking at stock locations and keeping a top mount (v7 sti). Just cant bring myself to hack up a bumper for the front mount. so hard to find parts for the BC5 these days.
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Main thing with Steve is the time and turnaround from what i understand. dont really want the car sitting there with no turbo for 6 months haha.
My mechanic has been recommending a tomei as his in house tuner got 300kw out of a similar setup on those turbos but the $$ is a bit off putting atm.
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12 hours ago, gotasuby said:
Bigger cams are a waste of time on a vf30. Then can cause slower spool
Cheers - so something more along the lines of a 20g would be a better fit?
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Hi guys,
Getting to the end of my RS build and im at the point that we've got a basic road tune to get a few k's on the new 207 block. Post run-in, the engine has some 268 franklins and a vf30 sitting at around 1 bar of boost.
Keeping in mind that its not a serious road tune that has been done (given she;ll be strapped to the dyno in the near future), i'm getting onto boost at around 4,000rpm. My understanding/expectations of the vf30 was that it would be coming on boost quite a bit faster - mechanic suggested that it might be the bigger cams - is this in the right ball park? I trust the guy's experience so i guess i also wanted to get a feel for what to expect (in terms of real life impact) that the bigger cams are going to have on the cars driveability.
Cheers for the input
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If you change to the version 3 manifold you'll have to re-wire TPS and idle control valve. If you're running a link you'd be able to get around it easily but on a factory ecu i imagine its not worth the hassle?
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11 hours ago, slystiguy said:
Won't your IACV hit the bov?
Will make up some sort of adapter i think, otherwise blank off completely. im running a link anyway
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Bumping an old post - i've got a v8 wrx clutch master cylinder but it has 3 ports for the hardlines. The RS only has one - do i need to/can i cap these off? Cheers
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/STi8IntercoolerOntoMY00Classic
Here is the link I went off. I researched it all and purchased all the parts but never got to fitting the set up in the car. This should give you pretty clear instructions.
Thanks!
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Awesome, cheers guys. My tuner has an intercooler off a v8 STI so good on that front. i think i saw a few cheap GG wrx v8 cylinders on trademe so will jump on one of those.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
I cant locate the link I used but from memory the things you need to do are.
Offset clutch cylinder or cut the stock reservoir down and clamp it back to cylinder.
Modified mounting brackets.
Longer turbo to intercooler hose.
You need to shorten the hose from intercooler, to intake manifold so tmic can fit in between fire wall.
Possibly need to run aftermarket bov, or make your own hose to recirc the stock v7 bov.
V7 intercooler splitter, you will need to drill new mounting holes to make this fit your bonnet.
May need to put some rubber on the gearbox pitch stop mount to stop intercooler from rubbing or rattling on it.
I think that's mostly it.
Awesome, thanks very much. Regarding the clutch cylinder, does it have to be V7 STI? or would any GD/GG one work?
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Hey guys,
have had a bit of a look through the forum but a lot of old links no longer accessible.
Has anyone got a good link or writeup for fitting a v7 STI top mount into a bc5/gc8? I've convered my RS manifold to v3/4 and am currently running an ARC top mount but looking to make the most out of my future tune (link G4, injectors etc) without going front mount.
I'm looking for instructions where it uses the later model clutch reservoir as i would rather replace with a new unit than take a grinder to the existing set up.
Cheers
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10 hours ago, boon said:
Is the uppipe itself leaking or the flange between it and the header?
If it's definitely the up-pipe, I'd probably just ring a wrecker and get another factory one. The Redline ones are fine; some people had issues with the flexis in them but I think my twisted one was built from a Redline one and it's been fine for years.
Will need to confirm with the guy doing the tune - i'll get him to point it out on the hoist once i pick up the car. If the redlines are alright i might go with that option then - my understanding was the fitment of the redline gear was usually not worth the hassle.
Cheers for the response though.
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Hi guys,
Probably a FAQ but couldnt find anything directly useful - getting my RS back from the shop today with a run in tune but been advised that there is a leak by the uppipe (factory uppipe).
Been recommended that this is remedied prior to full tune - what are the affordable aftermarket recommendations? I know redline do one but have heard mixed thoughts - not keen to burn grimspeed etc type $$ on a factory location uppipe so wondering what my other options are and where to look? Google just keeps spitting out redline.
Cheers
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+1 just read it myself. Definitely backed up what my tuner was saying as well.
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Hi guys
In the process of installing a new ej207 into my RS and theres a few bolts im missing to get it all together - namely the bolts that go with the oil cooler as they block is slightly different from my old ej20g. alternatively if anyone is wrecking an ej207.....
Any advice on where to go about finding this sort of stock? Aware that Partsouq is an option but the sooner i can get this stuff the better.
Cheers
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Dropped RS in today to fix noisy tappets/lifters.
While engine is out, upgrading to vf30, hyperflow topmount, 850cc injectors and link install (after sitting in my room for 1 and a half years). When in Rome i guess...🙄
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1 hour ago, RaKid said:
Found my die set and measured up what I could
It's a 3mm banjo bolt with a 19mm shank in M10 but the pitch is likely to be 1mm. I only have 1.5 and 1.25 and they both didn't work. Pitch is super fine.
Awesome, thanks mate. will update my to-do list.
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Do you need brand new? Second hand sets show up on trade me and facebook etc all the time - https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing-1940788646.htm?rsqid=0fa015542855424290915ef1a7c15363 for example.
You just need phase 1 injectors (like the ones in the auction) as the phase2s wont fit. I *thnk* you can tell em apart quickly as phase 1s have single holes whereas phase 2s have 4 holes in the injector.
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1 hour ago, RaKid said:
Correct - Or if I have time and can find my die set I'll measure mine up tonight for you
Cheers!
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13 minutes ago, RaKid said:
Any decent bolt shop will have them - do you know the spec you need? Pitch, thread, length, hole size etc
Havent measured up yet - calipers arent actually on the car though as im respraying them etc - based on your advice, might be easiest to just take one in and ask then?
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Wheres the best place to get banjo bolts for 2 pot rears? Guessing Wingers is my best bet?
Cheers -
Hey guys,
Looking at removing/replacing the oil filters for the avcs units in the heads on my daily (n/a ej204 sh*tta).
Does anyone have any advice or a good guide on this? Also, if anyone knows what size copper o-rings that would be awesome as well.
Cheers
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1 hour ago, Dairusire said:
I think Yellow injectors are only phase 2?
Version 5/6 rails should bolt to v1/2 manifolds as far as i understand and that way you can run phase 2 yellows (provided tune to suit i guess)
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9 hours ago, Dairusire said:
Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?
For me, that is my RA. It's quickly become a project I don't want to do, and has landed squarely in the to hard basket. Think I'm going to put more money aside to give it to a proper workshop like@sas@gotasuby because I just cannot be bothered anymore.
Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
Feel your pain mate - i need to get the heads dialled in properly in my RS (just dont have the time not skill to pull the motor and re-set heads etc) so the plan is to send it in, sort out manifold and turbo conversion at the same time and straight in for a tune. Been saving all damn year for it though, but at least the car is still driveable.
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Cams and Performance
in Engine Related
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Definitely something do-able, but there's still the added cost involved, plus the piping, twisted turbo set up etc which im keen to stay away from. Probably shooting myself in the foot but at this point anyway i'm trying to draw some firm lines around where i want the car to end up.