Technikhaus

Subscribed Member
  • Content Count

    719
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

Posts posted by Technikhaus


  1. 1 minute ago, Joker said:

    now you can carry 2x spare wheels hah :P

     

    I dont mind mine with the STI wings on the back, front 'brush bar' (as some call it) is enough for me :P

     

    I see the one on trade-me has the tyre carrier and the wings on the back as well, must be a tight fit!
    So happy to have both the brush bar and the tyre carrier, just need to find the front spats and the side-skirts and it's done!

    • Like 1

  2. Finally test fitted the rear tyre carrier, pretty happy with it, and it definitely gives it the distinctive Gravel Express look.
    Just need to work out how the it mounts permanently, setting the height etc, and also build a catch for it, as it's the only main part I don't have.

    And of course attempt to remove the advertising on it.

     

    Iy213Rn.jpg?1

    • Like 2

  3. On 4/11/2020 at 5:10 PM, Shibe said:

    Got a tune on the Forester today (bone stock)

    133.8kw > 162.5kw

    A nice increase in torque

    Car feels completely different 😁

     

     

    Nice result!

    Apet by the looks of it? Nik's always been a good yarn there, really need to get my WRX finished and over to him...

    Speaking of, I'm one step closer now, finally got a new up pipe for the WRX, the old one had a cut in it from removing the heat shield, found a stainless steel one brand new on trademe for $80. So that should get me a step closer to running.
     

    • Like 1

  4. Different I know, but just some random info. 
    My partner's Mazda 3 has this feature, and it's very hit and miss when it works, I think there's a ton of conditions around when it'll turn the engine off etc, sometimes under harder braking it'll turn off, sometimes not on hills etc. 


    But we always just disable it as soon as we get in the car. It's the most frustrating thing ever. Pull up to a stop sign, find a gap in traffic and go... wait no, engine has to start now! And now it's too late to pull into traffic and the gap has gone....


  5. 29 minutes ago, Loren said:

     

    I don't understand why they put all the timeattack style aero on for basically an autocross car.

     

    It wouldn't get as much e-fame if it was stock looking though. It's all about the publicity.


  6. I vote towards a dedicated solution. 
    I've played with the android dashes and windows dashes in the past, and it's always just that little bit frustrating, either dealing with battery charging, or it draining your car's battery, getting it to boot when the car starts etc, even with the likes of a Nexus 7 and Temur's ROM, it was just annoying. 
    I moved to a RaceTechnology Dash 2 (Old now), and just the guarantee that it would start when the car start etc, just made it so much nicer. And the CAN Integration means it's just power, and CAN and it's done.

    In my Rally Car I had it all wired up for indicators etc, but in the WRX I'm just going with power, CAN, backlighting. Keeping it simple.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  7. 8 minutes ago, Gripless said:

    Impressive. 
    have you thought about using heat shrink tube to cover the wires rather than split loom tubing?

    you could heat it only at the ends or lightly to keep some flexibility. Or there are soft versions. I sometimes put a drop of silicone sealer in the end so it’s water tight. 

    The other one I was going to try is phone cable. Basically 4 wire network cable. Cat 3 as it’s twisted for high speed data and you can group the other pair as power. Even normal cat 5 network cable you can use multiple pairs as power. 
    it has options to be heat resistant and self extinguishing for use in walls and roof spaces. 
    I had a bunch for old installs off a local company or end of rolls. Since they use it in long lengths a few metres is scrap. 

     

    I despise split loom tubing with a passion 🤣

    I prefer either a nice heatshrink (Raychem DR-25 if I can afford it), or what you can see on the 6 min connector, which is a fabric style heat shrink. 
    I like to do it as nicely as I can afford, which sadly isn't always the flashest!

     

    Here's an old photo from when I was building the loom:
     

    6xccc44.jpg

    • Like 1

  8. A little more progress on Sunday, but not a lot. 

    Test fitted the intercooler and air box to start, seeming pretty good:
    UPnr6fx.jpg?1

     

    Pulled out the bracket that hold the sensors on the driver's strut tower, and wired in the Link 4 Bar MAP sensor, and started on the wiring for the Can-Lambda module, this is only terminated on one end, and open on the other until I get some loom tubing. I impressed myself here, when I made the original expansion loom for the RS Legacy, I included a spare connector in the engine bay that has 12V, Ground, Can H +L, and a spare analogue sensor input, so I used that here to power this sensor. so no extra work for me, just a loom to from that connector to the module.

     

    8byIi3A.jpg?1

     

    Here's the additional 6 pin connector I pre-wired, and where I've mounted the FPR for the time being. The amp wire is also to be tidied up and loom-tubed.

     

    IWUwlZ3.jpg?1

     

    How the afternoon finished, need to work out a joiner for the airbox (V7 WRX) to the intake pipe, and the correct routing for the Power Steering lines. 

     

    V3LWV3J.jpg?2


  9. No progress over the last month, sold my house and moved, so all my time had been focused on that. 
    Yesterday was my first time back in the workshop. 
    Fixed a stripped thread for intake-mani > Heads.

    Installed the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, and finally the engine into the car. 

    I do need a new up pipe if anyone knows of one? It appears I must've nicked the flexi with the grinder when removing the loose heat shield 🤦‍♂️

     

    rutVz6R.jpg?1

    • Like 3

  10. Mate has a Outlander PHEV with similar features. 

    It helped him avoid a crash on an off ramp when there was sunstrike, and a car directly in front of him slowed down very very quickly. 
    It's definitely a feature where if I had the choice, I'd definitely go for it.

    • Like 2

  11. Lost the windshield washer cover on the STI a wee while ago, found a part number online for a replacement, but wasn't sure whether it'd come unpainted, or painted. Received it today, and thankfully it's painted, and even the correct colour!

     

    The car goes in for paint in a few weeks, a brand new front bumper going on, a few scratches/dents repaired, and some paint fade being sorted.

     

    WqCaMKJ.jpg

    • Like 2

  12. For noise, here's a few sound clips from our 2011 STI, it's a 2L, but the noise volume should be about the same for a 2.5L. 

    We started with just an R400, cat-back. Then later on went with a cat-less down pipe, we never did get a CEL from that. 

    We had it tuned, as we also did an after-market intake system.

    Tuned at SAS as recommended by PBMS and CroweSport, think it was around $700 for the tune.

     

    Just the R400 exhaust:

     

    R400 + cat-less downpipe:

     

     

     


  13. On 7/09/2020 at 8:59 AM, BmxBandiT said:

    Hi everyone. Can I please get some advice on putting a catted down pipe vs a catless downpipe on my 2.5litre  09 STI hatch. Benefits . Advantages. PBMS suggest catless. What s your thoughts 

     

    We just put a catless on the STI recently. 
    Definitely changes the tone, and quite a bit louder in our case.

     


  14. 13 hours ago, Icy said:

    Thanks for all the replies guys most helpful.

     

    On further inspection bottom end seems to be flat. Turns out one of the points i was checking from was slightly raised so gave it a little sanding (shouldnt effect gasket seal area so i think im fine to sand it)

     

    A_J_T i was seriously considering the single turbo route but seems like a lot of effort and cost so for now ill keep it twins.... however im fairly sure the rev ds are supposed to be running vf 33/32 combo but checking both mine i got 26/27... now i know the inlet size for the 33 and 26 are different so went to check the inlet pipe and what do you know

     

    Its clamped so tight its severed the pipe on both sides, and it was taped over one side in the past by the looks of things.

     

    Anyone know if the only difference between the rev a-c and rev d intake y pipe is the inlet to primary? I might just have to get one of those.

     

    Oooooor am i better off going back to a 33/32 combo?

     

    Also theres an cdb ej20g shorty for sale currently, can they be paired with any heads or is it not that easy?

     

    Slowly accumulating tools as they come up on TM or go on sale but im sure theres plenty i still must have!

     

    If you can, I'd try go back to the correct turbos, as it's most likely still on the original tune, so best to run the original turbos etc. 

    And yup, you can swap to the 20G CDB no problems at all.