willisnz

Did some TCU logging of real/front wheel speed on my drives too and from work. The logs round wheel speed sensor readings to zero dp, which is annoying. Had the live graph while driving which doesn't round and could see tiny fluctuations on the rear speed while the front looked flatter, but not sure if it was enough to indicate this was definitely the problem. Plotted the difference between front and rear and it fluctuates pretty evenly between +1 and -1 with the rare +2 (rear 2kmh slower). Then I saw this on my log home and read the codes and P1706 had been re-triggered, haha, think we have a winner!

Related note, RockAuto sell Sachs for BP legacies...if I replace my shocks in the future might go that route if you enjoy yours:)

Herding kittens is a thankless task, so thanks for taking this on:)

Any update on your shocks?

Turns our @funkytown has had a similar issue and @Subirex Automotive has dealt with the issue before.

Being a photography nerd I'm finding it really hard to not just vote for all of @sobanoodle's entries, haha. Maybe we should cap the entries per person next time:P

Yeah,didn't think they would be related,scared the S*** out of me though... Glad it happened in my driveway and not on the motorway!

Read this yet? Consensus seems to be delete 3rd cat but leave the other two.

Anyone ever thrown this code on a BP/BL legacy before? Have always had a hard shift between 1st and 2nd and low speeds/throttle. Out of interest pulled the TCU error codes using Romraider yesterday and it had this code. I had the sport, ABS and traction control lights flashing as I pulled into my driveway on Sat, which is what prompted me to pull the codes yesterday. I had left my tactrix plugged in but not hooked up to my laptop and it didn't happen after I turned the car off, unplugged tactrix and started the car again. So didn't think anything of it until I hooked the tactrix back up yesterday. Found this discussion on LGT where people report similar weird shifting issues, particularly between 1st/2nd, when they threw that code http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sport-light-blinking-84513.html So may be off to see @Subirex Automotive for some diagnosis.... This has also reminded me that I pulled cruise control code ages ago in FreeSSM, which may be related...

Yeah, I just chucked the link up in case anyone else wants to upgrade/replace so they know the one to get.

This. I think your sub is wired for either 8ohms or 2ohms. Research reveals there is Rockford dual coil 2 ohm model which can be wired up for 4 ohms. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3sd2-8

That makes sense, though that brochure is confusing as it has the AT/MT listed with same fuel efficiency for GT (13km/l) whereas the spec.B splits out AT (12km/l) and MT (11.4 km/l). I.e. that doesn't explain why the AT spec.B be worse than the AT GT?

Interesting, GT and GTB have same max power but GTB has worse fuel efficiency based on that? Both better than 3.0R though. Less aggressive tune at lower revs for GT maybe? This is getting beyond my engineering knowledge... @sobanoodle rev.E starts what year? Thanks as always for being a font of knowledge when it comes to manuals/brochures:)

Now that is something special... http://jalopnik.com/the-impreza-casa-blanca-was-the-ultimate-in-rally-going-1497358360

Anything I should look out for when shopping for a turbo BP? Assuming I will look for a facelift spec B auto. Assuming I should go spec B vs a GT if possible. Is there much difference between the years for the facelifts? I feel like I remember someone saying the turbo changes at one point....probably imagining that...

Don't know why, but this reminded me of an outback I quite often see on the NW motorway that has STI badges on it for some unknown reason...keep meaning to get a photo of it but risk of crashing while doing so is too high!

Not going to shorten it to CS OBG? OBG is one of the shorthands for "Obstetrics and Gynecology", haha.

LOL @Andy_Mac. When the Outbacks are lower than the legacies there is something wrong;) If you do, keep me in mind for your pinks, as I may have a GTB that could use them in near future...

Good point,I had just assumed 2.0T would be similar to 3.0 for a legacy of the same year. Playing around with trade me insurance it would be about 60 more a year. Though for dinner years the cost is the same, go figure...

@delta the more I think about this the more I think the likely scenario is selling my wife's NA 2.0i, getting a turbo for my car/the daily and keeping the 3.0R as my wife's car/road trip/tow bar car. The alternative/sensible thing to do would be start commuting in my wife's 2.0i, but I think that would be soul destroying....

Pretty sure AJ told me my pads were 50:50 needing to be replaced in Jan so I am probably up for pads...

@A_J_T import,actually been going through the process of getting it e-tuned, but a combination of being away for a month and then one of me,my wife or daughter being sick for the last couple of months has made it hard to go out an log. I really like my BPE. I think the likely scenario is we sell my wife's 2.0i BP5 and the BPE becomes the road trip car/one we will fit a tow bar too and the turbo would be the daily driver/my fun car.

Fair call. I'll try not to do it again.

Totes. Which makes sense for open road driving. I guess my logic is that for stop-start driving in traffic you are constantly applying more power than you need to get from a to b and then braking So a 2l off boost may result in less wasted energy than a 3l. At least that's the logic I'm testing.

I wouldn't expect much difference for non-nana driving, mainly interested if it would be different for nana driving in bumper to bumper traffic. Yeah, I initially really liked the idea, as they are half the price of an STI, and I really like the look of the STI hatches of that generation. But for the same money I can get a facelift spec.B legacy which has swayed me back towards that.