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Which probably means that the compound of SP500 is relatively good : even though they got very hot, you didn't get any uneven deposit on your rotors. I'm pretty sure that the brake shudder I have come from there (uneven brake compound deposit on the rotors). I was thinking about going with Project Mu pads but since SP500 are cheaper and easier to source in NZ, I might give them a try. @boostin @calebwrx @GorGasmSpecB Does the SP500 squeal when cruising ? Any annoying noise for a road car ?

Sweet, looks real easy to apply. And how long does the beading lasts ?

Nah I've got a Whiteline RSB now, helps a lot against understeer They've got a few good/effective models, but I agree. I also think that most of what they do is just bling bling : bigger, heavier and less effective than stuff like AP racing for example Am I supposed to get the car certed if I change the brakes BTW ?

That looks like a great price, stop tempting me, I'm spending too much money with this forum EDIT : Sent you a PM @Subirex Automotive

That explains a lot ...

That's awesome. Too bad I haven't changed my brakes yet

Just inspected my brakes Rear pads look fine even though rear rotors are not vented : On the other hand, looks like front pads got a little hot It says Silverline at the back of the pads, is that a brand ? Anybody knows that sh*t ? Will keep that in mind, thanks mate. Regarding EBC, tried it once, it didn't work out so well for me. Here's a pic of yellowstuff after only one track day : Pic is from a mate, needless to say he didn't like EBC either

Well, to be honest, I'm no expert in alignment All I asked for is to get as much camber from the front as they can and I trusted them for the other values. What I know is that if you throw your car around, it's nice to have negative camber and it will limit tyre wear. -1° or -1.5° look like good values to me if you use your car on the street. -2° or more should probably be reserved for track use. But you won't be able to get those values unless you have the right mods. Regarding toe, a friend doing time attack likes to keep it at 0 but I'm not good enough to give you an opinion on that.

That's not too far, I could even drive there to try out my new suspensions now that I've done an alignment All good info, thanks guys. Just upgrading the fluid and pads could be enough as long as I don't track it. I'm in no hurry so I'll put some more thought into it.

Disclaimer : this is an attempt to go back on topic. Got an alignment done today : Toe was waay off, money well spent !

If all that is true and you have the $$$, you should spend a couple weeks in Germany and go to the nurburgring. Keep in mind that it's one of the fastest and most dangerous tracks on earth. I'm not talking about other galaxies or video games here, cars get destroyed, people get hurt. But if all you like is top speed with adrenaline that is the right place for you. If you still think that the track makes cars feel slow after that, you're just a troll

Wow 3 laps ! Doesn't look much and Znoelli pads shouldn't be too bad from what I've heard ! I'm not sure an experienced track driver would get that much more laps out of it. Good drivers I know don't use engine braking at all and I don't either. My understanding is that it's just not worth it, you might damage the engine/gearbox which are far more expensive than replacing the brakes and the amount of braking you get with your engine is negligible compared to good brakes anyway. Where are you based ? I'm not sure which route I want to go yet, but could be an option.

Hey mates, I'm looking for feedback/experiences of people that are driving their Legacy or Outback hard or on a racetrack. Which brakes are you using ? How is it working out for you ? The rotors on my Outback got warped for the 2nd time in a year. I'm trying to think about the best way to fix this and prevent it from reoccurring. The thing is, I have a dozen of track days experience and I don't think that I am gentle with the brakes. I've got brake fading a few times in winding roads. I probably need to change my rotors and brake pads and I am thinking that it might be more cost effective to upgrade my brakes at the same time. I've been told that Legacy GT rotors are bigger than Outback ones and that the LGT brake calipers can be bolt straight onto the Outback. Looks like a good and cheap upgrade option, but is it enough ? Will it make a real difference or not that much ? Of course I'll use good brake pads with that.

Personnally I have something like this : Works with an android phone through bluetooth. This way you can even use it while on the run if you encounter a problem.

You can buy a device like the one listed by willisnz and read the error codes by yourself. Then look them up on ClubSub/Google and decide what you do from there. Personally, I find it really handy to have a device to read error codes and it will probably be useful again in the future. Just check the level while in P with the engine running.

Yep agreed with @willisnz , first thing to do is read the ECU error codes. Regarding your transmission oil level, this one is a little tricky to read. With an AT you have to cycle through all positions (P, D, N, R) and keep the engine running before reading the level. If you don't do it that way the level you read doesn't mean anything.

Haha it's never gonna stop, is it ?

That's a good start but not sure it's enough. I'm not going to lecture you like everybody else, I'm just going to give you a pure driver's perspective. If you put the risk of other drivers that might pull out aside, I think that 260 is too much on NZ roads. While I personally think that driving at 200km/h on French highways or 250km/h on German highways is relatively safe as long as there's nobody else on the road (but it's still illegal in France), the quality of highways in NZ is nowhere near to the quality of highways in France or Germany. At 260km/h on NZ roads, you need real skills and there's always the risk of losing control because of a road defect (and you won't be able to do anything about that no matter your skills). My point is : 260km/h on NZ roads is way too much, if you want to find your limits and learn how to drive fast, you should go to a racetrack. And you'll learn a lot more that way. Anybody can do 260km/h in a straight line, not that much people know how to go fast in corners.

Sweet, that looks like a lot of fun. If there's any hillclimb like that around Auckland I might be keen to give it a try.

There's a new one in the family :

Installed my Whiteline RSB with @JGM (thanks for the help bro !) I drove just a few kms and I can already feel a difference, can't wait to try that out with the Sachs !

Haha, if that is the problem, my tips for you would be : 1. Find the speed at which it starts to understeer 2. Take the next corner at the same speed while braking slightly (this way the front end gets more grip and you avoid understeer) 3. As soon as the car starts to go sideways, release the brake and play with the throttle. On an AWD with LSD, you should always keep some throttle while being sideways, if you don't the rear wheels will likely lock and you can spin And of course start with a corner with a lot of space and visibility in case it doesn't go as planned. Have fun !

Hold on, understeer with a 05 outback while off road ? I've got a 06 outback, it understeers a lot on tarmac but it's really not that bad on gravel roads in my opinion. If you enter the corner at the right speed and just brake slightly to transfer the weight in the front while turning, it's easy to put the car sideways. And as soon as you're sideways, you can just play with the throttle and keep it sideways for quite sometime. While I really miss RWD on tarmac, my outback is a lot of fun on gravel roads PS : I didn't read everything but I know that I have a LSD with the 3.0R ; a 05 outback can't be that different can it ?

You get used to it From my (limited) track experience, the person behind the wheel is far more important than the car. I passed a few porsche gt3 rs, caterhams or maserati but the drivers were beginners and I've done a few trackdays, nothing to be proud of here. And maybe they just want to be safe and don't want to damage their car. At the same time, I have friends that have been doing trackdays for years and years and one of them is as fast as me with a slower car (50hp less, less agressive suspension). That makes really fun battles as I really don't want him to pass me with a slower car

Sweet, will keep you posted Looks like they have heaps of stuff; price for the Sachs is the same as Amazon (with the current 10% off). Let us know how it goes