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Posts posted by Loren

  1. 5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    if he is providing all parts already then there isn’t any reason labour would be anywhere near that high but as a total that would be about right. 


    yes sorry, I just mean as a total.  I reckon 10 to 20 hours for the short block.






    • Like 1
  2. Expect to pay around 10k for a decent rebuild. Maybe 8k if you take short cuts... 12k if you do everything properly.


    Removing the engine and taking off the heads will save a bit of money... but the costs just add up and up and up.


  3. There are diagrams around... you just need to search for them.


    It's very likely that Joker is correct though. Just a spare plug with some power going to it, so useful for some previous owners to hook into for whatever.

    • Like 1
  4. Front diff has gone bad, but only when warm? Sounds weird to me. Could just be some worn bearings somewhere. You should get it properly diagnosed before trying to find a new box.


    A replacement box though should only be $300 to $500. Labour will be easily $1000 these days. You'll probably want to change the clutch and replace or machine the flywheel. Several hundred more dollars there.


    But if it's just a worn CV or wheel bearing, it'll be much cheaper!

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, BoozaL said:

    I just got a 2009 GT 2.5 Manual, and compared to my old 2006 GT Manual it certainly feels detuned! The old one can spin the wheels easily and pull like a school boy, not even tuned, just high flow cat downpipe and cold air intake. 

    2009 GT is higher too, I need to lower and stiffen it, and replace the ugly stock rims. 


    Maaaaaaybe tune it with my old air intake and downpipe installed, if the downpipe will fit the BR...


    Sounds like you should just trade it in for a 2006 GT Manual.

    • Like 1
  6. 58 minutes ago, Snails_R_us said:

    Yup I didn’t think it was the boost solenoids as there is one under the drivers fender and another one inside the solenoid box. I wonder if the evap solenoid being half snapped like that has had anything to do with boost and or air fuel ratios cause ever since I’ve owned this car I’ve been chasing a persistent vacuum leak and I’m half wondering if this could be the culprit. 


    Probably not. The evap valve should only open when the engine has vacuum and if the blocked line is going into the intake manifold... the evap valve opening won't do anything at all.



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