Loren

Yes, doing too much of that recently, but I have no time and no decent workspace and am sick of missing out on racing.

Sounds good to me... the more mechanical noise the better

Might have been something very simple it turns out... the radiator cap not holding bugger all pressure I've had the turbo water system separated out anyway and I think some radiator shrouds have been added. There is a short hillclimb on Sunday so it should be obvious if an improvement has been made.

All this talk about a pitch stopper. What is the world coming to? Solid engine mounts, gearbox mounts and rear diff mounts are noisy. A pitch stopper though?

Depends what you read... the cavitation problem is not supposed to be bad with the JDM water pumps... the USDM pumps which are fitted to lower revving 2.5 litre motors are worse. If fixing the air flow through the radiator and adding a separate radiator for the turbo doesn't work, replacing the main radiator will be next. If there are still problems, maybe an electric pump and/or get the tune checked... maybe taking some timing out will help, but I'm not keen on losing power :0

That's correct... I guess the dyno isn't as intensive as competition driving. Plenty of recovery time between power runs while things are checked and adjustments are made. I have a laggy turbo so need to keep the revs at or above 5000 at all times... can't help things.

Turbo makes a big difference... core hasn't been checked, though there are no cold spots and the radiator cools things down pretty quick once I've stopped driving. Also, no heat problems on the dyno and never any problems for road driving. If the secondary radiator, shrouding, oil cooler and mo cool don't help, I'll look at the main radiator. I would have looked at it before putting the secondary radiator in, but macbilt have said the secondary radiator for the turbo has been required on all their WRX race cars. It's a new genuine Subaru 78 degree thermo... bottom pipe gets hot at the right temp.

I've changed the coolant a couple of times and tried watering it down more... also just put some mo cool in. I've drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat... I was told it would flow earlier and a bit better, but it didn't really help. Oil cooler didn't help much either.

Sounds like I'm having more trouble than anyone on here then 113 degrees C with just a 5km hillclimb. I will put some shrouding around the radiator... macbilt think my radiator is a bit small due to the sides being trimmed to accomodate the fmic piping and think a motorcylcle radiator added under the hood scoop might fix the problem.

No, but you can copy/paste a url.

I have no idea how to use Instagram further than using the scroll bar... so no, didn't see it. Can you post a link?

Ok cool, I thought you were trolling for a moment there... but agree with @boon... some panel work to make them look like they are supposed to be there is in order

no idea... sounds a tad unlikely to be a straight swap... why are you considering it?

I know a bit about his setup and am considering a seperate water cooling system for the turbo as well... just wondering what length others have had to go to. A TMIC means you get more air on the radiator which probably helps a lot.

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well? How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

I'm cool enough... more concerned about the engine

What are the 300kw and over cars running for cooling?

I am a bit jealous I must admit... if I had a BRZ I would have the perfect excuse for posting bad times at hillclimbs

It will be a better sump/baffle design. Or the fact that the BRZ has no power and can't get up enough speed for high Gs

Probably because you can feel it and fix it long before it's fatal by going to the petrol station.

It's not a circuit car or rally car in standard form... the sump is fine for road racing.

Oh, just leave the usual bolts in there and tighten them up... maybe set them both on min or max if you want? The top hat should give all the adjustment you need.

Thinner camber bolts can stretch and break... they are very weak compared to the standard bolts because they are so thin. If you can't get adjustable top hats you could go to pick a part and get some eccentric bolts from the bottom hole and grind out the top hole of the strut and knuckle.

+1. Sell the 19s... get some factory wheels and save for some decent tyres.