Loren

No, but you can copy/paste a url.

I have no idea how to use Instagram further than using the scroll bar... so no, didn't see it. Can you post a link?

Ok cool, I thought you were trolling for a moment there... but agree with @boon... some panel work to make them look like they are supposed to be there is in order

no idea... sounds a tad unlikely to be a straight swap... why are you considering it?

I know a bit about his setup and am considering a seperate water cooling system for the turbo as well... just wondering what length others have had to go to. A TMIC means you get more air on the radiator which probably helps a lot.

@boon @gotasuby is the ducting just around the sides and top of the radiator inside the engine bay... or do you have ducting in the front grill area as well? How much of your radiators are obscured by the fmic? Have you done anything to manage the airflow though the hood scoop?

I'm cool enough... more concerned about the engine

What are the 300kw and over cars running for cooling?

I am a bit jealous I must admit... if I had a BRZ I would have the perfect excuse for posting bad times at hillclimbs

It will be a better sump/baffle design. Or the fact that the BRZ has no power and can't get up enough speed for high Gs

Probably because you can feel it and fix it long before it's fatal by going to the petrol station.

It's not a circuit car or rally car in standard form... the sump is fine for road racing.

Oh, just leave the usual bolts in there and tighten them up... maybe set them both on min or max if you want? The top hat should give all the adjustment you need.

Thinner camber bolts can stretch and break... they are very weak compared to the standard bolts because they are so thin. If you can't get adjustable top hats you could go to pick a part and get some eccentric bolts from the bottom hole and grind out the top hole of the strut and knuckle.

+1. Sell the 19s... get some factory wheels and save for some decent tyres.

Worst tyre I have ever had on a WRX by far... like driving around on rounds of wood. And R888s were good for the money... but now with the new model and greatly elevated prices you are much better off with Dunlops.

Spinning out onto the grass isn't guaranteed to be safe anyway... what if the ground is very wet and a wheel digs in and the car goes into a barrel roll?

That's an extreme example though right? Generally speaking most of Nexen tyres on the road in NZ will be the very cheap and not great for the track variety.

The autox I linked is on grass and it's totally safe to spin or the slide the car as much as you like.

An autox is better for that. https://www.facebook.com/events/2024318697585821/

Driven hard sure, but any car can have oiling issues. It doesn't matter how well it was built or how well it is maintained. Even dry sumped motors can run into trouble.

@Gripless All of you guys wanting to push your cars really hard should get rid of the recirculating breather system anyway.

Yes if you really over fill the sump the crank will be picking the oil up and chucking it everything. 1/2 litre appears to be fine though. If you want to understand why the oil spews out of the heads in a big corner watch this.

It'll over speed the turbo... you'd need to put a reducer on the turbo output to provide some resistance... or do you mean plumb the output of the turbo into the throttle without an intercooler? Would work with E85.