Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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23 minutes ago, Subru said:
Ok thanks.
My car never had cats pre turbo either. I have a secondary o2 underneath the car on the downpipe but there is also a bung at the top of the downpipe, shall I drill it out and put the o2 sensor that was on the uppipe in that bung?
What ECU?
If there is no cat in the downpipe, there is no need for an O2 sensor right by the turbo... you only need the one, and down the far end of the downpipe is a better location.
It's too hot right by the turbo for an O2 sensor under load, and only used in a factory setup to cycle the AF ratio up and down (when cruising) to keep the cat in the downpipe clean.
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6 hours ago, Subru said:
@Loren Im ready to install my set off a twin scroll car with modified uppipe. Just looking at my headers and it appears they have no O2 sensor whereas my stock Unequal length headers have the O2 sensor on the headers. Where did you install the o2 and did you just use the original one?
No cats in a twin scroll up-pipe so no need for an O2 sensor pre turbo. No issue for me as the gc8 never had a pre-turbo cat either.
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9 hours ago, Bugeye01WRX said:
It could be driver error but Im pretty sensitive to this stuff and know when soemthing feels different and the car would never do this while warm.
Well actually you are way over sensitive, hence all your "have I killed my car" posts.
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ride the clutch on a hill start... don't launch it then "lug it" ffs.
why is it stuttering now? probably driver error.
just keep driving it... when it stops moving... it's broken.
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It will be more expensive than most in the case of the head gaskets because the engine has to come out of the car... and there are two cylinder heads.
I'd say ballpark $2000 if it's a very simple job. Lot's more if the mating surfaces are not within tolerance. A lot depends on what else needs
replacing too... if you want the car to be leak free and reliable for a long period, you'd be looking are replacing the cambelt, idlers, water pump,
oil seals... it can go downhill very quickly and end up being much more expensive.
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Are you asking how much it costs or just want a recommendation for a good quality mechanic?
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Take it to a mechanic to diagnose properly before buying any parts.
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Have you tried hitting the dash surround?
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Agree with @Joker... unless you are a mechanic and know exactly what you are doing, and know exactly what parts you need, and can get said parts really cheap, and know exactly what is required to make it road legal... forget it.
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It gets easier every time you do it definitely.
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10 minutes ago, eZ_Harry said:
Yeah I've been taking a look at them, not too badly priced. It is more a matter of building the courage to do it, rather than having a do it. I've only done the basics of mechanical work, various gaskets, tie rods, suspension etc. So this seems like it would be quite a big jump... well actually pulling it doesn't seem to bad, rather putting it back in is where I'd expect to get really challenged
It's a challenge for sure... lot's of perseverance required... but challenging yourself is a good thing.
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No point trying to diagnose now as the engine is coming out for sure!
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Today so far I have attempted to fit my engine back in the car twice.... first time not enough tilt on the engine... second time it lined up and went on the gearbox perfectly... except I hadn't put the clutch fork on !!!!!
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7 minutes ago, Gripless said:
bias is one thing power is another.
Yes, but firstly he has a standard sti motor... with 195 kw, so won't need bigger brakes just because of that.
But you specifically mentioned he would need bigger rear brakes, cause it's rear wheel drive. It doesn't work like that.
Hydraulic handbrakes are a separate issue... and would not warrant bigger rear brakes or even seperate callipers necessarily.
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@Gripless You can make you own seats mounts, you don't need sliding rails. Also his brake bias has not been altered at all, so the rear brakes don't need changing.
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Head gasket
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20 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:Mine came pre-cross threaded by the last owner. It was a pricey balls up to fix too as they needed to cut the box section open to weld on a but.
I would like to avoid this for sure... I've got helicoils in for now and hope they hold up. The helicoil kit was bloody expensive too.
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Buggered both the threads on the chassis for the gearbox cross member
Does anyone else have a great deal of trouble getting those lined up? Seems the cross member needs bending slightly for both bolt holes to lines up.
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CroweSport of course
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10 minutes ago, Joker said:
bit of an old Wives tale eh
20 years of TT's modders & not much over spooling going on with other builds
Maybe with a TT... single turbo wrx will spike from my experience... it's not by much and it's down low when the boost is just coming on, so plenty of excess fuel in the mixture.
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8 hours ago, Joker said:
no
Surely it will spike a bit? These aren't closed loop are they?
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2 hours ago, Subru said:
I'm sure they could make something decent. They should make a 2 door with 'gc8 looks' to rival the supra haha.
They made the GC8 for marketing purposes and it was an huge success... decades later they are still clinging to it.
But clearly there is money to be made making fat slow cars.
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It's like they are trying to hypnotise us... yes... I see it now... this whale is really a WRC car from the 90s. cool. I'll buy one.
Why don't they just re-release the GC8? That's what everyone wants surely... and it will slap all the greedy 60k to 90k trademe f***wads in the face
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This could be the most cringe worthy wrx marketing video of all time.
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Equal length headers on v7 sti
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
It will drive fine... unlikely that the 02 sensor is used for anything more than a fail safe. If you are worried just message Chris and tell him the situation.