Gripless

I will learn to read one day, but yes they have condensers too. just have to search for older or original part numbers. eg for the last 3 digits try 0x0 and 0x1 where x is 1 to 9. Chinese sites don’t update the superseded numbers.

Or search the part number and alternatives in aliexpress, they do AC compressors. BMW owners are getting a $3000 compressor for $300, not quite the markup on Subaru parts but worth a look.

AutoPS.co.nz Picked up a few bits there today. Friendly and helpful, plus the prices on what I wanted was cheap.

Found out what the fluid was. All of them… and it’s all the things that have been rebuilt in under 5-700km. Upper coolant tank. But known about that for before Xmas but hadn’t driven since. Rear main seal, guessing that been since rebuild too. Gearbox around the front pump area. Time to drop car back off and give them time to fix the mistakes. also picked up tape to restick the fender badges on. Found two new 1cm to the metal scratches on the bonnet so touched those up. The bonnet was fully resprayed and was chip free since 2021.

Well bump… Yet again great service and help for Subtech.

I curbed a wheel for the first time on this car. made a good job of it too on those stone rocky ones, so 2 good chip and a little scrape. Also the roof lining foam and cotton fill really eliminates drone. There’s almost none now. Plus the sub now sounds clearer and punchy.

Assembled and coding a canbus DCCD message emulator. It can send random or preset messages over canbus. Working on the graphic interface for the receiver which just displays the current state. once that works I’ll connect it to the car diagnostics port and live test it.

Yeah that stuff was via archive.org since it was no longer on the original sites. Next note 2007-2014 GR GD have a wire to the TPMS lamp, not via canbus like the 2016+ cars. The TPMS can send canbus messages as it is in the unit that does keyless entry. It’s in the hatch area on left. Only one panel around the rear quarter window needs to come out to undo the one bolt holding it in. To interface with dash lamp any aftermart unit will need make use of the wire to dash cluster not canbus. Seems DTC codes may be blinked out for all modules is via the dash. within 10 seconds acc on Headlights on trip button 3 times headlights off trip button 3 times page 2796 service manual has table of what the results are.

@THUNDA found ox336 Bosch one was 3 wire a few months ago. Maybe he can confirm. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007400474415.html has lots of images and explains the two different 3 wires versions. Shipping is free over NZD$16 and that is $26.45 when logged in without the welcome deal price. Add gst and that’s still about $30.

I had my last one done in south Auckland. Before that I used felt on dash and the A pillars. But after watching how it was done, and realising the tool is around $25 next time I’ll give it a go myself.

That is a big improvement. Have you thought about “flocking” the dash to hide the cracks? Used to be popular option to fill cracks with flexible gap filler like “no more gaps” that is white, then flock over it so it’s all black again. But since it just static mesh tool that modellers use to do grass they are cheap and you could attempt it yourself. Many rally cars still do it as the idea is to reduce glare so places can do it for you.

Posting for completeness of original Bosch sensor 0x80 = 128 decimal 0x70 = 112 decimal BO_ 128 DRS_TX_ID2: 8 DRS_MM3x SG_ AX1 : 32|16@1+ (0.00012742,-4.1768) [-4.1768|4.1765] “g” ABS SG_ YawAcc : 0|16@1+ (0.125,-4096) [-4096|4095] “°/s²” ABS BO_ 112 DRS_TX_ID1: 8 DRS_MM3x SG_ AY1 : 32|16@1+ (0.00012742,-4.1768) [-4.1768|4.1765] “g” ABS SG_ Yaw : 0|16@1+ (0.005,-163.84) [-163.84|163.83] “°/s” ABS ID 0x70 BYTE 0 + BYTE 1 (16 bits) is yaw rate : (RAW * 0.005) -163.84) = YAW °/s [range -163.84|163.83] ID 0x70 BYTE 4 + BYTE 5 (16 bits) is Y Acceler : (RAW * 0.00012742) –4.1768) = Y ACC “g” [range -4.1768|4.1765] ID 0x70 BYTE 0 + BYTE 1 (16 bits) is yaw Accel : (RAW * 0.125) -4096) = YAW ACC °/s2 [range -4096|4095] ID 0x70 BYTE 4 + BYTE 5 (16 bits) is Y Acceler : (RAW * 0.00012742) –4.1768) = Y ACC “g” [range -4.1768|4.1765]

If you wanted a small LCD the mimics the factory dash that would be NZD$10- 20 in parts. ESP32 board with tiny LCD screen. ESP32 have built in canbus controller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007342383107.html $7 Canbus transceiver. Does the actual canbus voltages and signals? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006832397047.html $3 note: this is a 5v part so needs a 4k7 ohm resistor between the RX on canbus board and the esp32 which needs 3.3v max 5v voltage regulator like 7805 series, nothing fancy. $0.5 Some wire to canbus and power etc. free any old network cable works fine for canbus Same hardware ESP32 can also connect to any aftermarket dash with a digital PWM input simultaneously. The code on ESP32 could just duty cycle state of the diff. something like… percent duty on the input 0 auto 10 auto - 20 auto + 30 manual level 1 40 manual level 2 60 manual level 3 70 manual level 4 80 manual level 5 90 manual level 6 100 error in dash set the labels to show based on duty eg 0-5% duty show auto, 6-15 auto- etc Or… if you have aftermarket ecu and dash already it’s FREE. Add a math or table function/block in the ecu that takes the OEM canbus, which it’s connected to already to or you couldn’t press start or see si-drive state etc. Then have that displayed on the dash. Emtron has a canbus gauge that seems to have an app to make custom screens so that could be an option. Make 4 little icon for manual auto - + etc and have those shown based on ecu messages. Then can math the 1-6 into front rear bias based on the DCCD year which Subaru publish. Eg 50-50 front to 35-65 or just have the 1-6 bars like OEM dash. Emtron call them calculated channels, for software use only eg logger and dash. https://help.emtronaustralia.com.au/emtune/Newtopic254.html

@Andy_Mac Looking at 6MT manual DCCD has only 2 data points. First byte is counter that loops 0 to FF so ignored From service manual… DCCD mode 0 manual or 1 auto 1 auto - 2 auto (defaults back to this when set to manual mode) 3 auto + This is 2nd byte hex during normal operation observed values are 21 manual 29 auto 30 auto - 31 auto + DCCD torque distribution 0 when in auto mode 1 free 2 3 4 5 6 lock This is 3rd byte hex during normal operation observed values are 0 when auto 8 (bit 4) plus above level -1 when manual eg 8 to D hex On another page it states in error state the dash alternates from displaying 1 to 6 every second eg 1Hz but it doesn’t state if that’s sent from the DCCD controller as messages with 1 and 6 or it just sends an single error message and the dash then blinks that sequence. Only way to tell would be make DCCD have and error and then look at the messages. Canbus can have 8 bytes in a message the this uses only 2 so it can have error or operational state in the other 6 bytes. I found someone had already decoded it and posted publicly so if your dash can do canbus you can configure it with the below…. ID 0x430 BYTE 1 is Differential Control Bit 3 = 1 “Auto” , 0 “Manual” Bit 0/1 = 11 is “+” , 10 is “-” , 01 “no change” , 01 also in Manual /automatic mode BYTE 2 is Differential Control level Bit0,1,2 000 – 1 level 001 – 2 level 010 – 3 level 011 – 4 level 100 – 5 level 101 – 6 level When “AUTO” select Diff control level is always 000 Looking at manual vs decoded there is a difference in lock and free level. Manual has 0-6 and the decoded has 0-5 which could just be a typo in the post.

I’m getting more convinced that the roof insulation and soundproofing makes a big difference to exhaust drone.

Alpine DDDrives, old models but still better than 90% of any speaker ever. They had a RRP of NZD$1399 when new. They also require very little EQ to sound good. It they lack mid bass on the co-axial model. Those KEY amps and auto EQ are very good though. The old JBL infinity Harmon ones sounded very bad with the amp EQ. Just load the mp3 pink noise and wait 10 minutes and it’s pretty good.

The sensors that replace the valve stem are the same chip and protocol so you can just choose those. I got external ones as don’t want to pull tires off until I need to. What do you want for DCCD, just a display of auto/manual and lockup amount like the factory dash? A small board could read the messages and then trigger a 0/5v for auto manual, and digital variable resistor could be set for the lockup. That way the dash can read the resistor like a key pad. That would only need a digital and analog pin on the dash. Once I get to work on the canbus side I can check that as it seems easy to decode. Just toggle the switches and look for new canbus message ID’s

While there are some canbus messages ID decoded I haven’t found a great one. Looking for: TPMS tire pressure Intake pressure DCCD g force sensors etc Currently trying to build a TPMS canbus to bluetooth aftermarket sensors. Have managed to write the code to detect and read sensors now I understand how they work. Going to try and make the code user friendly so anyone can buy and pair sensors and connect them to car. Just a little LCD on a hide away box that triggers the OEM dash light or the dash top screen. edit/update built a Bluetooth TPMS that displays the pressure on a round lcd display. Values are next to each tire on top down view of blue 22B. can scroll through PSI Bar etc and also see voltage and temp of tires.

Fitted second front speaker. Had a few issues getting kicker KEY amp to auto EQ. https://kickernz.co.nz/car-audio/amplifiers/key-smart First time failed since new front are 6dB more sensitive needed to fade to rear manually by ear until seemed close. Second was failure from volume not loud enough. Third time it succeed. New speakers are way clearer than old ones, but still sounds better after EQ. Mainly more lower mid bass the rest was already nice and flat. New 3/4” silk dome tweeters are better than the cloth 1/2” ones. Clean and soft highs, nothing harsh even at loud volumes. Though new retail price is nearly 10x different, lucky no one wants car audio much anymore so got them dirt cheap. Plus had to add sound deadening to outer door skin this side since the door was replaced when handle was screwdrivered and bent metal. Panel beaters just swapped door rather than they to fix the handle mounts etc. With they added dynamat sheet between door and interior trim, they didn’t do the reflection pad.

Installed one speaker in passengers door, ran out of time with other little bits I found today. Found sound deadening was pushing old speaker into grill. Was the 2mm tar and foil stuff. Removing it isn’t hard but the foil is razor sharp as I found out. Ground inner grill to make more clearance. Added some foam to door skin where no factory wool was covering. Found issue with driver door lock. passengers one has a ball and little pin. Drivers one doesn’t have the pin. Must have broken off when they tried to break the lock. found air vent to passengers front foot well was unclipped and loose. How it came loose I don’t know but it was a pain to get it clipped back in.

Replacement fender badges arrived. This time they are the correct ones, so stuck those on. Ordered 63269FJ120 replacement hatch gas struts as they started to not open fully in the last few weeks. Generic replacement antenna as the original one is a bit bent. sideskirt large push clips as found that a couple are missing. assorted panel clips as missing some from wheel liners.

Look at partsouq.com and amayama.com as ordering the parts in is usually far cheaper. They sell genuine parts so it’s just cheaper and faster than going through NZ dealers.

Yeah that would be a much clearer fit.

Found few drops of something under the car towards rear of engine and just passengers side of centre. looked almost clear, possibly a bit yellow and didn’t smell much. PS fluid is red. brake and clutch colour is close. engine oil is brownish. It didn’t smell much like any of those. pulled intercooler off to check clutch master and slave. Master is full to top, slave is dry. AC issues Started wiping a few bits to see if anything was wet. Then saw the AC connector(expansion valve) on firewall was dirty. When started to clear it the foam(packing) surround was full of yellow oil. EXPANSION VALVE 73531FG000 PACKING 72133FG050 Checked the bolt online and it’s a Allen key bolt and mine is a standard 6 sided one. BOLT 73570FC000 Guess when engine put in one of two times it been out someone put the wrong bolt in. Since this is a new issue it’s likely it was part of the rebuild. Still not convinced While it matches colour and is on the correct side it could still be gearbox fluid or brake fluid. Will have to take it to local shop to get it up on hoist. edit… Had a Subaru guy look at it and says looks like wrong bolt is fitted. So may need to be removed cleaned new o-ring and make sure pump still has correct amount of oil. Hopefully it’s not a short bolt that been over tightened or the dash may have to come out to replace the lines inside that it all threads up too. edit… clean out most of what was behind the foam and while full of oil it doesn’t seem to have left any trace down the firewall so looking like it’s not what was on the ground. On a side note the roof insulation seems to work both for heat and noise.

The bit it cover is the actual metal of the hatch. The next bit where the badge is a plastic and holds the plate lights and open and lock buttons. So it needs to be uncovered for maintenance.