Gripless

If they want a real solution it’s not based on anything they have said. It’s all in the contracts, repair costs are covered by the contractor for the first year. These already exist for some infrastructure along with very strict times when work can be done eg only low traffic times, often at night. Lower the cost of roads rather than bill users. Ban luxury good from road transport, low use high status items are not allowed on road transport and must be sent via train. Supercars just add 10% duty on import for roads. Hybrids and electric weigh more than petrol cars so I’m not sure how complex their maths is to make anything balance out. The other part is if people are to pay the same or less how does that increase the income. Even if it is to cover the development costs which being software and/or hardware will be many millions of dollars. plus isn’t there going to be more of an imbalance with local roads in cities not getting money. Isn’t Auckland the only city that gets income from road tax now? let’s also throw in Auckland has more congestion now than before 1)ride share apps have studies showing they increase city traffic and congestion by 13%. Add to that the 3 lanes roads that are now 1 lane for bus or cycle lanes that are pretty much unused.

https://www.wrxforums.com/threads/sti-r180-swap-information-on-conversion-hybrid-axles.18754/page-2?post_id=267481#post-267481 L = 1 R = 2 So in the image they are correct, Left is left and right is right.

Well that’s kind of true, but massively underestimated and twisted. location services is for google and apple to use. Eg find my AirTags etc. If you call emergency services they can get your GPS location sent from your phone by the operating system. That was set as the default in NZ many years ago. Fall detection etc uses this system to get help if you don’t cancel it. Plus if you have Bluetooth on, even if not connected either phone or stereo they broadcast their ID. Some shops, busses and signage have for years and years recorded the ID and signal strength they see and report back to a central system. They can track your travel through a city, or in-store, they watch what isles etc you walk down to see the flow of customers. Signage ones are mostly adverts or those info displays which track the time you spend looking at them to see what ads or specials attack the most attention. This similarly goes for wifi, your phone sends out requests every minute if not connected to a known network. They cycle through your saved or known list to see if they are nearby. This was what the karma wifi attack used. Not to mention that all phone phone networks have your location in real-time and can and do sell or give access to anyone they want. Google also does this for traffic congestion on maps. So tech is already in every pocket to ticket you real-time if you are speeding, only thing stopping it is figuring out who the driver is at the time. if you have a phone or any Bluetooth device you are already tracked by most tech companies. Let’s not forget the free LoRA messaging devices. If it transmits it is trackable. If you aren’t paying for a product… You are the product. Welcome to the last 20 years of tech companies. If you want a good conspiracy theory, why did the headphone jack get removed? All phone are thick enough for one… it’s so you are more likely to have Bluetooth on so they can sell data for ads. PS for reasons, this is all made up and I have no knowledge or involvement.

Well that took far longer than expected. Prototype 4 fitted into the case with the LEDs and buttons and closed fully. So that’s a win. I ordered new prototype 9 boards and another selection of components which took a few weeks. Procrastinated a few weeks, plus life things. Assembled the first one over weekend but it didn’t work. managed today to find a small shirt or solder under a diode, and that the main mosfet on the input was faulty. Not caused by the short. these have the reverse voltage protection and LEDs to show the voltages are good. Should put it in a case and test this week. Also a board for the 1.44” screen board and parts arrived. Assembled that and initial tests have power supply section working ok. Have to connect it up to the screen etc this week and test the canbus part. It has a small issue with the mounting holes being being under a mm out but the holes are 2mm so that’s a lot. A file will solve that so first 10 or 20 that arrived will have oval holes. So DCCD displays should be a thing soon. And the microcontroller isn’t locked down so anyone can make it display whatever they like. Thinking of bringing them all to Flatnats for people to try and get feedback. Plus may have some race cars to test them lined up.

It’s also modified autos drop more in value. Most people know that autos are weak and their life is shortened by more power unless you do some serious parts replacement inside them. So if you are only keeping the car for a few years don’t worry about the ecu or new turbo. make sure you have really good tires for the trackday so you can carry more speed through the corners, much more helpful than a bit of extra power.

lol only reason to put devices in cars is to have some private company make profit selling them. NZ already has number Plate scanners on toll roads so as long as you registered it auto pays. They also like them as they act as speed cameras as well. They read entry and exit of the toll so can see your average speed over a known distance.

Shh before they add more tax for hours on outboards.

That’s how I read it. WoF and registration would be the periodic checks. Basic net zero. Taxes saved on petrol for wasted in general taxes that have now paid for consulting and the wof software company to start creating updates. As usual some MP friends or business made money out of it.

You’re just going to waste money with needing a number. For stock turbo just use the stock ecu and downpipe. Whatever you get from the tune is either enough or you need to start with a new turbo and add $10k to the budget. Peak power is also a waste of time a 280hp twinscroll will beat a 300hp single scroll as it makes more power sooner. Take away the 10-15% extra loss from automatic and lower diff ratios, you’d be faster in a stock manual than 300hp auto.

Why not just flash the stock ecu to use map and not maf with something MerpMod. Then you can tune without those limitations.

You can always go back to multimeter while driving and have someone watch the values.

I found this https://xcceleration.com/pinouts/Subaru pinouts/ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) - Single Swap.pdf and looks like adding wires for TPMs and it’s ground is needed. Possible the pins or wire is damaged or a joint cracked that won’t show up when the car isn’t moving. I was thinking alternatively you may not have an electrical issue. Maybe you have a split in a vacuum or boost line that opens up and stuffs up the idle.You could get the same with worn spark leads when they get hot. Anything that drops revs outside where the ecu target is and throws an error. So a leak when the ecu is trying to idle down would throw an error for idle control as that’s what it is doing. It can’t predict air leaks. Have you checked and replaced the throttle butterfly closes fully? I’d also remove the ecu case and check the capacitors for leaks.

Well it could be: for the automatic ecu, just on the body loom. used as alternative for idle switch a brake switch Are there any wires in your ecu that should be unpopulated compared to the diagram? That may not be an exact match. Look for ones that match that plugs colours first. Have you checked and replaced any of those small vacuum lines?

Just remember your car is likely only 175wkw now so 210wkw is a noticeable gain. My manual 2L was only 185wkw stock tuned with rebuild engine. Most coolers work fine but, Ive always used the tube and fin single pass type coolers. like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006803498379.html Just find a size big enough that you can P clamp to the lower rad support and maybe the center or side supports. They are low density fins so don’t block much flow so more air goes through them rather than around. Plus they have the lowest restriction to flow for the gearbox pump. The pipes are reasonably thick so don’t get hole as often from stones or rubbish hitting them. I always put in sideways with inlet at the bottom and the out at top so the bubbles bleed out upwards and nothing gets caught in the loops. Just remember a cheap set of 17” wheels and secondhand semislicks will likely make more difference on track than those power upgrades. I always get motul 660 brake fluid as late braking can push temps very high with smaller brakes.

I don’t care much for brand named silicone parts as they are likely all the same factory or just more money for the name. You’ll need a trans cooler with the new radiator as the stock one has the cooler built into it. Just get one with built in barbs, don’t waste money on fittings etc. a forester one maybe two would be an option. For the sump get a factory one modified. After that RCM has a rubber fitting to stop dents blocking the pickup. There is also a baffle plate that sits between the sump and block that just bolts in with the modified sump or stock one. https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-pickup-anti-surge-adaptor https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-sump-pan-baffle-plate for NZ sales try https://jmms.co.nz ClubSub did a large group buy a few years ago.

Just do the silicone intake, intercooler and downpipe with tune. As long as you don’t have a uppipe cat. The main things for trackday are good tires and brake fluid. The only other thing is sump baffling and AoS or catch can. Otherwise get a drop in (tomei etc) or stock modified turbo. After that it’s really 90% less bang for buck.

As long as you have two air paths one low and one high then there isn’t enough vacuum to lift water. Maybe if you drove into a flood at high speed you’d get water up to the air box, but you’d have massive front damage hitting 20-30cm deep water at speed. for downpipe just make sure it works with the auto, pretty sure the case is larger or sticks out in different places.

Have you looked at PCBway etc to get them done in alloy?

Mostly what Andy said. No point in going for a tune outside your area unless you are getting lots of other work done to make big power. Plus tweaks for drivability don’t involve more travel. FYI aren’t verticooler are wrx plastic intake only, not the alloy sti one. The plastic intake makes the throttle sit lower. I was told not to do the cooling mod as while it cools better it’s just more failure than the plugged hole. Cold air intake is a looks mod., just remove the resonator underneath the factory. Then run a pipe from the bottom hole where the resonator was to by the front fog light. is there any point to uppipe and headers for a single scroll auto? My factory twin scroll was making all the boost it could with downpipe alone. It just could flow enough at higher rpm for more the 15-17psi.

Basic software testing is now working. Finally found out one of the wired pins for transmission was not usable. No idea why it’s not marked as any special pin and acceptable for use with canbus controller. It just doesn’t work. Wired another pin and everything just started working ok. Now have a few more tests for the hardware to figure out the resistance values for the pins that control the canbus listen-only and shutdown. You need to balance their internal resistance that wants to make the chip active and transmit the default, vs the external resistors I added to make it shutdown and passive at power up. You need to make the resistance as high as possible to the shutdown passive state as possible that you can overcome with the microcontroller. Tonight will make pcb changes to swap the pin that caused issues to the next closest and add some more places for resistors to both to power and ground. That way swapping resistors can be done on the board as needed. It also allows the canbus controller chip to be a different model that has different need to resistance high or low. PS figured out some of the download issue were the voltage regulator on the serial port adaptors I have. Using usb supplied 5v through the regulator on the pcb works ok. Guessing they can’t supply enough current as they are cheap and under speced.

So far, so good. canbus drivers etc all installed ok. Also found that every reboot of pc that programs the microcontroller it resets the memory size and partitions where normally it remembers them. This isn’t a big deal but is annoying. A custom board description file will fix the issue, so have to learn that next. It will help with final version for others to customise and install their own software. Tomorrow I have to dig out laptop with the canbus software and usb canbus sticks and setup a testing network again.

Well wasted most of a day chasing an issue with chips not flashing. Desoldered parts rechecked with multimeter as seemed to be a possible short or something in the design blocking normal boot up. I ended up tacking some wires directly to another microcontroller in the batch I have and it had same fault. Seems the older chips I got have a higher current draw than my normal programmer supports. Finally dug out an older one and got code to upload ok. re-soldered everything I removed so tomorrow I’ll try the canbus. After that I’ll build up another board and fit it into the case with LEDs and light sensor as a finished unit. If this works I’ll order the newest 9th revision and also the power/can board for the tiny LCD screen ones.

Managed to finally get some more progress as parts arrived last week. I soldered up the switching and regulator power supply using solder paste and heat plate which worked on all but one tiny chip. Solder bridged 2 pins but that was easy to clean up. I fitted both diodes backwards, one as didn’t check, the other I knew was backwards but was working off old schematic. All voltages were good, so tomorrow I’ll add the can bus section and hopefully the micro controller. I missed ordering the tiny capacitors for the canbus but the voltage sections are overly filtered and won’t impact testing. The static protection chip wasn’t ordered either as that want needed to test.

You may want to look at dielectric grease for those plugs. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/permatex-permatex-dielectric-grease-.33-oz/379868.html

I drove the car. Still found oil on ground around the rocker cover but only a few drips after a couple of months.