Gripless
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Everything posted by Gripless
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The CV one is a little blooming an not as tight as a good 10” but for the trade off and easy to remove
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So move up to 15” dual subs.
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15kg = Skinny vs chubby for the passenger as for bungee cords only ever in a sedan. They don’t hold up well if you hit something
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I’ve given up on amps and underseat subs are now awesome I have the C Vega one at 40% at repco.
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Think closed
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I have them wrapped in oil and plastic in Auckland
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Found this 3mm alloy backed foam. Kind of remember this thin stuff moulded in the doors of some euro cars. https://trademe.nz/marketplace/building-renovation/carpet-tiles-flooring/floorboards/listing/2281024186 Costs 1/20th the price since sold as flooring insulation and bulk. May just replace the thin plastic sheet inside the door with this.
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Should you not leave the material around the bolts. Stops water and crap going down to the threads. Plus less machine time to remove the material so cheaper to produce. A little more to print and test but you can leave it void and just print internal webbing.
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There should be no pre load on even factory links. They are the same height on each side so as long as car is level or fully off the ground the bar has zero load. You can put side loading on the links lower rubber mounts if you don’t get the ones that slide along the lower bolt mount and you move spacers around to make them sit vertically below the hole in the swaybar.
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I have a set of those cams from my spare engine. 2.0L W block dual AVCS JDM Have rods crank etc as well Make me an offer
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If you don’t have fancy end links just run the middle hole so it all lines up. Even then hen you can strip the threads off
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10mm door and interior foam https://trademe.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing/2279329024 10mm under hood or boot lining https://trademe.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing/2279717767 Light dynamat https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/other/listing/2277191146 plus you don’t have to do curves or bend panels with the dynamat as it adds weight to stop vibrating which bent or curved metal doesn’t do anywhere near as much as flat. Outer door skins helps a lot too.
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JDM 2.0 STi
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Lol my car is now on a list but no letter from Subaru or NZTA.
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Maybe it’s just the sensor reading better without the burnt oil in the exhaust. Sensor may see oil as fuel since it’s the base from which petrol is made. That or oil blocks the reading of oxygen a bit Engine may be running the same.
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I’ve used both. The higher cost one is far better. It’s 1-2mm or white heavy rubber/tar then foam. One sheet will do. Other option put cheap foam on top of leftover dynamat
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JayCar stuff just behind speaker. It’s like dynamat with foam on top.
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Do the Transmission tunnel if you love pulling up carpet Front wheel wells are curved and rubber mat so maybe skip those. But just in front of doors is open and hollow. Ie where the wires to the doors go through
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Yes jaycar stuff is closed cell foam so no water gets held in it. Also mount it so the top slopes so water runs off the top edge. I cut the foam back on the top edge at 45 degrees as well to it has even less chance of water staying there.
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Headunit will be far better than you think those JVC units are underrated. Speakers and mounting will make the biggest difference. Speaker brand depends on music taste. The more effort on the things below can make $50 speakers sound better than $500 speakers on not installed properly. sound deadening is good and for the price @Omsin got it well worth doing. The noise is resonating bass form the door cavity. Makes a difference to exhaust drone as well. Won’t help you if you have a pitch stop mount that is too hard though. Things to do with install: buy and some jaycar closed cell foam to the outer door skin to stop reflections even if you do doors fully in dynamat like stuff. Speaker cones are thin and sound does also go through them. Newer cars have foam rings around the speakers to seal them to the plastic door trim so no bass leaks where you can’t hear it. Speaker mount maybe as be as big as 6.5” and the newer plastic is sometimes better. Ie 2007 up speakers are in carbon fibre reinforced. Not woven pretty but mixed into the plastic. I cut the factory speakers out and screwed new 6.5” infinity coaxial speakers in. Sounds pretty good but have underwear sub as well now If you dynamat cut strips (or foam) to put between speakers and mounting plates as well to squash down and airtight seal things.
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Drill + can opener = win Ok so someone did that on a rally I was on once and scrutineers had a hard time figuring out if it was ok.
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Are we having a GRB hood scoop party?
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Do you use the back seats? You can get half cage with side beams that go to the front foot wells under LVVTA. So you have the brake master brace already? https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/suspension/listing/2265872510
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Yes but short of a cage that links all the points solidly you don’t get much. I’ve had cars stripped full of braces and then a cage and it’s little upgrade to braces, then night and day for cage. The braces in the front arches were the most noticeable. Stitch welding along that area helps too and since it’s under the guards the pain doesn’t need to be matched. The flexible ones are likely for NHV reduction than out right handling. Still get more more bang for buck with better tyres and newer shocks.
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The subframes are rubber mounted anyway so bracing them to themselves seems pointless. I have a few pre fitted and they make no difference compared to a swaybar or struts. Braces are are not effective on newer cars as the chassis are so much stiff from the factory. Unless you plan to rally it or track it over ripple strips with stiff springs. Save your coin.
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