Gripless

SSR GTX01 18 x 9.5 ET40 1 piece 21 lbs http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/gtx01.asp

TSW Turbina 18 x 9.5 ET39 https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_turbina.php

TSW Bathurst 18 x 9.5 ET40 https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_bathurst.php Same low load rating and weight as Nurburgring TSW Luco 18 x 9.5 ET40 matte black with tinted spokes https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_luco.php TSW Chrono 18 x 9.5 ET39 25 lbs fat https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_chrono.php

TSW Nurburgrig 18 x 9.5 ET40 https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_nurburgring.php 21lbs only 1.3kg more than rays TE37 but load rating is low at 1340lbs. Stock BBS are 1525lbs. TSW Mallory 5 18 x 9.5 ET40 https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_mallory_5.php 24lbs 2.5kg more than TE37

I wanted one of those but the running costs were too high. There are a few DTM S4 here. Hand built but 2L turbo. Heaps have new engines as they failed and warranty replaced them all.

I took both front wheels off and checked the ball joints and bushes. everything seems tight with no play and the boots are all intact. Wheel weights are all still in place. Tires are still legal and no flat spots or bulges. Had a lot of vibration on the road going through the roadworks on SH16 and wasn’t sure it was just the road surface. Steering felt off as well.

Just use rainx on the lights the solvent eats the plastic and clears the yellow. Also any rough cleaning removes the UV protection coating and they yellow up real fast. So buy the new clear coat for them. Plus don’t polish with anything high speed as if you heat it too much the plastic it gets bubbly and you end up buying new lights.

Hey it gets rain X all the time. Plus I can’t see the outside when driving and it just gets covered in bugs, dirt and soot.

Sigh. @Andy_Mac dont feel bad mine only gets cleaned when it gets serviced and that’s just a wash down.

Crap now I want red crinkle paint on my rocker covers ?

The other issue is running a front mount is becoming increasingly hard as you have bigger and bigger crash bars which can’t be cut. Australia has almost no rules and virtually no wof or cert unless you car gets ordered there.

Looking at current vehicles heaps or euros and even the American F150 run water intercoolering now.

That is kind of true but the area differences between the exchanger and radiator offset that quite a bit. I cant find much that says they heat soak from people who actually have them. Other than drag racing but they are icebox only.

That was with cobra pump not the nasty plastic thing. Only thing that that I don’t like is that if they leak into the intake it’s pretty much a horror story for the motor. I cant see how they can heat soak. Water is something like 25x more efficient at conducting heat. As long as you don’t over speed the water flow it should draw heat extremely well, plus since the cooler is out front and you’d have to heat all the water before it loses efficiency

Anyone seen https://frozenboost.com range of gear? about $450 plus shipping gets 600hp setup with heat exchanger, radiator, pump and remote cap. Just need to add lines.

@newsuba that’s way to pretty. All I have is a single bar with a few bends s it clear the nuts from the bracket. I also wrapped wire around the bar and bracket as the bolts are so tiny.

Bunnings has them cheap too, and have stores everywhere. stores can have more options https://www.bunnings.co.nz/search/products?q=fire extinguisher 2.5L dual strap $63 https://www.bunnings.co.nz/family-shield-2-5kg-fire-extinguisher_p00183790 i put a wire (like baby #8 fencing wire) between the two release catches so even if you pull one they both pop open. Makes it easier to open and don’t have to stretch as far. remember in older cars without a cage that the firewall comes into the footwell in a crash so ideally remove them for road use or your passenger may be worse off. For a a race car the plumb in kits are now pretty cheap.

The second one, rear 22mm so not that big and not on hardest setting.

Links are all oem ones or last one was autolign. Newest one is a 2016 STi one.

Do they have a rear sway bar fitted. If it rolls or leans to much in corners then it’s a easier fit to fit a bigger rear bar.

I’m good with the height I have so as long as they clear at the current height it’s ok. I’m a fan of lightweight as they are better on the road. May have to get camber tops to get some more clearance

888 pages today I’m again replacing the left rear sway bar link for the third time.

Sadly they are silver only oh and cost way too much Enkei RPf1o 18 x 9.5 ET45 https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/6204/enkei-rpf1-silver?associated=17197%2C17198%2C212880 Edit: these are out need 4mm spacers for the ET38 to clear brembos https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1575028&page=239

A few people have used subtech on here.

Looking for some new wheels for a GRB something similar to the factory BBS twin spokes but wider. Darker colour or bronze (bronze has grown on me since I fitted the bbs ones) @Niran has managed to fit 9.5” offset ET38 on his so they work just. Measured up the clearance from suspension and arms as well as an other area. Looks to be at least 15mm on all the interior sides. Should be safe to be 8-10mm less clearance. Closest bit is the front inner wheel well. The bit directly in front of the wheel so easy to pull forward since it attached with push in plastic clips. Options and ideal offsets here: https://www.fastwrx.com/pages/subaru-wrx-and-sti-wheel-information Japan racing JR18 18 x 9.5 ET40 hyper black ET43 https://jr-wheels.com/towar.5248.japan.racing.jr29.18x95.et2040.blank.matt.bronze.html works emotion cr kiwani 18 x 9.5 ET38 http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/31/60/Emotion-CR-Kiwami Work emotion M8R 18 x 9.5 ET38 http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/191/60/WORK-M8R Rota tarmac T2R 18 x 9.5 ET38 https://www.rotawheels.com.au/wheels/rota-t2r#!prettyPhoto