Gripless

Yeah lucky the intercooler will have caught it. May have left a mark on the intercooler which could be your next video.

Going to be interesting to see where the nut turns up.

So do you suspect the nut came off and jammed the compressor and snapped the shaft.

Until it gets wet then it's going to be better. the older lighter models could be an option, could even go 2wd models. though trademe looks like not many older cars for sale.

You can look at MCA as well. The prices on the site are a bit more than you pay with shipping. But you'll get gst on top from customs. roll center kit is only useful once you get the car really lowered otherwise it's a waste. i suspect the alloy parts are all from the same place, but the internals and hardware like bolts and brackets maybe all different. also the original D2 I had different diameter coils to the other brands. They were actually really good suspension if setup correctly and the default spring rates lightened.

Why are there no Subarus in the north or South Island series?

Slower is more fun! you have to carry speed and learn to be smooth. With more power you don't drive the same and you can hide many bad lines. Ive already unlearned almost everything since having too much power plus slow cars are cheaper and if you come off the track it doesn't go into the wall at all or way softer at worst. So you can push more and then it's more fun.

Yeah parts are a high mark up industry. Seen many 2000-5000% mark ups that's 20 to 50 times the original cost.

Got any pictures of it?

Getting the Downpipe done just makes everything louder and moves the drone lower down. if the exhaust is quiet inside now then it should be fine, if it's already loud then it could be annoying. Fujitsubo are usually really nice systems compared to most brands so you'll have a good chance of a nice deep clean sound. gives good gain after a tune so it's worth it. Don't go flooring it until you get it tuned as the factory tune will likely over boost. And the cat light etc will sometimes come on too, but not on all cars.

It's about sealing the front of the speaker from the rear to improve bass. If air can pass around the hole in the door then you get less bass. also give them a week to stretch and get better if you haven't, can take 24 hours of playing to stretch the surounds fully. i just put foam rings to seal them to the door inner plastic or you can seal the whole door with sound deadening.

Thanks to @RAYDEO and anyone else involved for organizing this

Yeah that little box kinda give away the extent they had to go through for the brz. I'll fix the first post for you... fixed still not not sure it put off the idea, yet.

Yeah well I know the stock one is heat soaked. dont expect much but think 250 kW at the wheels from factory turbo will be a laugh. From 2015 https://www.mrtperformance.com.au/files/TechDoc-Subaru-TurboALL-Intercooling-May2015.pdf

Lol so should I buy one and crank up the stock turbo then I could get rid of that iconic scoop too

Does also depend on the turbo. stock turbo is starting to heat soaking the factory cooler at 21 psi and 210 kW. Running the turbo at 14 psi gives 5 kW more power after 7000 rpm on same tune. Power is down massively everywhere else but it was an interesting test.

Well my car is back together and starts with not bad lights on the dash, test drive after sleeping and work. its amazing how much crap is in a car when you clean it out

But hood scoop

True there will a big part in how they tested. Would be nice to know if they intended to write that up before they started. hopefully it was an honest comparison, but at least it was same brand of cooler. even still with all the pipe work and massive cooler the front mount still looks like a better deal. would like to see the stock cooler as well

@LorenI think you've taken my earlier post the wrong way. I was only saying 5-30 or 10-40 won't make much difference, not to ignore the whole rating system for brand only. The temp I was talking about is the one from the book base do no where the car is to be used. Depends who supplied them the oil and there costings and bulk purchasing, it's a business after all. I'd stick with full synthetic for modern cars.

@mlracing.co.nz posted some under Process west @pl0x embedded it in the topic on Intercooler piping seems like for the $550 difference between the two coolers it's worth it. id like to know how much work is involved in installing the front mount though as top mount is super quick to swap. Plus hard to see from photo if the stock BOV mount is still there.

Not saying both numbers don't mean anything. But it is the additives the provide the wear protection and how many other things are in the oil. and for that matter aren't additives what enables multi grade oil in the first place. Things like race oils have less detergent and need changing more often. otherwise why get synthetic brand name oil and not cheap unbranded stuff? having said that I've seen wear testing where Mobil 1 got beaten by the cheaper Mobil super 1 but then it may rate better in other types of test.

Hmm I though it was 100 degrees F not C. my bad

If you read the manuals usually the oils recommended based on the local temperature ranges. If you live up north or the bop and go to ski fields then you'll maybe see enough temp change to care. 5-30 or 5-40 will cover nz easy 10-40 wouldn't hurt unless you live in the Deep South or ski all winter. Even then it'll just take long to start and longer before you can boost the S*** out of it. its only the rating when the car is cold as it's the viscosity rating, once running its mostly down to oil quality and all the science behind the load and friction modifiers added to it.

Cheers @Joker I was still waiting for leave that far back so wasn't looking at it then.