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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Nah it’s looks factory except bigger and titanium. There was a single exit version I think. looks awesome especially with my modified rear bumper. my bumper is really high and ends just below the boot floor so about 10cm higher than stock. you can see the muffler and sway bar reinforcements from the back..
  2. i have the tomei titanium cat back but it’s factory quad 10cm tips. don’t think It will last with new turbo and anti lag. It has glass mat in it i think. i want a full 3” single pipe to single tip. No fancy just free flowing and quiet. Need a custom down pipe anyway.
  3. I think I’ll order some intake spacers for it today. haven’t seen my car in near 2 months. Hopefully back Thursday looking a bit fresher. still need a facelift bumper as I really don’t like the early one. Though may pull the slots and plate over them. then time for the single exit rally style adrenalinR exhaust and sell off the quad tip cat back titanium one.
  4. You have to disconnect the vents to helmets so it is a bit of a hassle. I think Hans is almost compulsory in rally now. Helmet need to posts as adding them is a poor option. what sizes are you? @Loren I run tint as well the light stuff with high UV cut. I did the rally thing last time and left gaps at front of windows to see the door mirrors better. This time being more road car it’s just fully covered. you can run a heavy tint strip as well. I had banner at top then as much tint as possible since seats are low the top of the windows is just allowing more sun in. also inside car was white and black only on A pillars. trans tunnel thermal covered.
  5. Lol I run the AC or tempted to get the mobile ice chest and pump since the tshirt with pipes goes under the suit you can get it later.
  6. Usually you get open face helmets for rally. Especially co driver as if radio dies and you have to yell you have some hope. Ok no hope, I did hand signals one event when the drivers headset died. open face is not as hot unless you have nice air ducting but rally you usually ditch it all in case you need to get out and do something. can’t say I ever got out other than between stages and standing around in the shade. have you asked some of the other competitors? heaps have contact or spare gear. Plus there are always one or two usually very up to date on what gear is good.
  7. Gloves are optional. there are finger less options as well. But only co driver so don’t carry over if you drive. Ok for club days where gloves are optional. depends on what rallies and how you are turn8ng pages in them. what radio hear is in the car, that helps pick helmets. You can fit ear cups to some helmets only. They extra cost of the food models and microphones are sometimes worth it. I have the open face balaclava it’s easy to pull down when it gets too hot waiting around, plus easy to throw up if needed.
  8. Well my gear is all good still, guess overdoing it first time was worth it. I have: sabelt suit (diamond 3 layer) sabelt boots (spiked co-driver ones are an option for rally) Sabelt gloves (lost or stolen) alpine star gloves sparco balaclava sparco socks sabelt socks other fire service supplier balaclava and underwear Sabelt rebrand HANS (carbon reinforced) Stilo WRC helmet (need mic adaptor cable to fit non Stilo gear about $100 extra) had sabelt harnesses, swapped to OPM due to needing 2” shoulders for HANS https://racerproducts.co.nz/ Sabelt and opm http://www.chicane.co.nz/ alpine and chicane https://www.allports.nz stilo sparco I like all my gear. Only thing I’d change is the HANs but I got it many years ago and had only 3 options for material at the time so got the middle one. now I’d be the ones that strap to you rather than just hang in a U around your neck. They are fine for rally but track days and in and out the strapped to you seems more appealing. either way make sure you get the HANs it’s worth it even in light offs that you can drive away from. Never had neck injury or even a sore neck since I’ve had it. They do support the helmet in side to side as well. if you get skinny then the gel pads are worth it. And watch out if you are tall and your seats have short belt slots as they raise the belt height over your shoulders. chicane have suits for NZ body shapes and more freedom of movement than some others. I still have no problems with he sabelt even though I’m 20kg heavier than when I got it so it’s not a big deal in the higher price models jus the low to mid range they save costs removing the extra material in the shoulders etc. oh and getting logos etc you need approve thread etc and through one layer which is costly.
  9. If you put the colour changing control in the boot so it couldn’t be touched by anyone while driving you may get away with it. Still has to pass WOF high low and park light test etc though.
  10. Nope not legal here or almost anywhere. no red light allowed at front or car. No blue either thanks to all the muppets with blue washer spray lights. You can have between slightly blue white to yellow only.
  11. Basically the lockdown version of real world tag. Use google street view to screenshot a location. crop it to remove the road name and indicators. Or photoshop blur the name. more rules can be added in this post by mods and admins… Note seems sometimes when you upload an image and it will be black when posted. Fix by editing the post, deleting to image in the post but not the upload then click the uploaded image below the post again, to re-add the image to the post and finish editing. this seems to fix the missing image. First image test iOS small iOS medium iOS large Too big to upload 😢
  12. Lol I have the opposite problem. Down pipe and titanium cat back with massive quad tips.
  13. Low mount is on a lot of builds, even moved to factory low mount as it’s more efficient. Look at some of the beatle ej conversions they have done it a few times. Skid factory builds as well. It’s pretty basic just minimising losses in the exhaust before the turbo. mine is built for 850whp but that’s only as a new stock crank was used. I’m going for fast spool and quick response so mine will be around 500hp. Have you modelled any of the turbos, though all should be better than your current one. the EFR has some nice feature which aren’t popular with some. Mainly the titanium alloy turbine which is glued onto the shaft. It I suspect that’s what give it the rpm limit and you’ll need a speed sensor if pushing them. Also makes them a rip and replace rather than repair in some cases.
  14. Why not just swap the muffler over to a adrenalinR one at a local shop. Save some money and less OEM crap to store.
  15. The gen 2 seems to offer a lot more than the gen 1 from all the over seas retune and upgrade tests. I went with the EFR as it’s pretty much the best spool you can get. but low front mount turbo will do even quicker turbo spool.
  16. There are two big fuses on the back of the fuse box in the foot well. one covers the whole middle console. The other may do the rest of the dash and cluster.
  17. Looks so much nicer now. Thanks
  18. I think you should call the LVVTA head office and choose the tech option. The info they give you is about the best you’ll get. they are also aware of any changes coming up that make screw you over if you don’t complete things by a set date. getting a cert is a massive range from simple to very complex. I’ve had certain for different things and some are drive in drive out. Others are months of calls and paperwork. But they all go well if you start with a call to the source. Or I’ve hit them up at car show when they have a stand.
  19. Mate, if workshops won’t take your money, why are you still trying? They are say it’s not worth the profit of doing it for them. Let alone the base cost. ring the LVVTA and see what they want these days as well. it used to be easy to do with no cert but as soon as you have traction control etc it’s all safety related and so all likely to require recert. I’ve converted other cars but wouldn’t even bother with newer ones as it’s a pain to get all the electrical s*** working and having seen there are actually 3 or more varieties of the GR v11. My one predates the wiring manual and then the facelift is different again for some things. Plus you can’t trust anything from American forums as the are left hand drive.
  20. I’m trying not to buy one as well. now they have carbon fibre and glass thread filament it’s tempting. also there are some slicer programs that can make print not 2D layered but real 3D but it’s still very printer dependent and not user friendly. wait until you find out things like 3D camera can be scanners to get rough models. Like Xbox connect etc for low cost.
  21. 400hp crank is 656cc at 43psi try this. https://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-calculators/fuel-injector-calculator basically 675-1200 range is ok for your power and still streetable.
  22. Think my stock ones are near 80% for 220wkw. Do you want to run e85 or not? As you need 30% more flow for that.
  23. I got the DW 1200 which are plug and play. Also they are apparently below the point where the idle starts to suffer. Or 1400 ones tend to not spray well at idle and so it gets a bit rough.
  24. It’s one hole. Just the trans tunnel. You could make something up that fits factory belt buckle but that’s not easy. Plus then the airbag goes off and you’ll not be far enough forward for it to work. you can also just run the lap belt if they won’t let you run the rear straps. I run the rear straps as a have a HANS device that also stop the straps cutting into your neck with the narrow stock seat harness hole. angle isn’t legal if you have the seat to far back. And well outside the ideal angles.
  25. You just need to drill and plate a hole in the trans tunnel behind the seat opposite the outside lower seat belt bolt replace the seatbelt bolt with a long one with round eye bolt. Then the same with two rear seat belt ones. then you can run any normal harness. go to any place that does race cars and they can do it super easy.
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