Gripless
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Posts posted by Gripless
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Looking for what years have matching floor mounting points.
I have future plans to change the seats (yes airbags, yes cert, yes harnesses, yes Hans and belt angles, and wtf ever else).
spoken to a few guys in lvvta on this and since seatbelt in on the rails then the after market ones are not really acceptable. And yes I know they get past some cert guys and some of you use them based on the seat anchor part of the rules.
All i and want to know what years I can use the floor mounting from to fit the 08-14 car form?
And why did Subaru do from those comfortable mid 90's seats (sad face harness slot) to the cheap unsupportive ones now?
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Converts H pattern into sequential shift. Anyone seen or used anything similar?
Run by KAPS by the looks of it who make some really nice stuff too.
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Do you need any external waste gate?
yes if
1) your turbo doesn't have an internal one
2) your turbo has been modified from original configuration. See 1) as most likely the internal gate will have been welded or can't open.
3) your tuner or builder tells you
4) you want the noise
5) you have too much money to waste on bling
6) you want more pipes crammed into the engine bay
if you want 4, 5 or 6 stop reading here.
Before you get there
1) use boost controller in ecu
2) use aftermarket controller
3) alter pill size in pipe to waste gate, smaller will hold higher boost. But too big or small make it hard to control.
4) use a different solenoid type than factory
@boon is right the spring is rated to be open fully at its rated pressure. It will creep without some form of controller to limit the boost to the waste gate until close to the required boost. If you ever get a turbo off the car use the compressor to apply pressure and watch how they crack open well below the rated pressure and waste efficiency.
the other important point is if you lose the pipe to the waste gate you'll be stuck running maximum boost of the spring. This sounds fine until you compare the gate area which is far smaller than the diaphragm so it works out many time higher than you'd expect.
in short get the waste gate that can control the turbo you have smoothly and get a spring just enough to keep the gate closed in the sweet spot for the flow map, and so it won't over boost. Use an electronic (Ecu or aftermarket) controller to keep the boost creep and spikes in check. Plus you can have hi and low boost settings so the car is more drivable. The higher power you make the less street able the car becomes and low boost is great in the wet.
added bonus is its wife and service friendly.
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Dash display seems like it is actually out due to the way it averages.
also I mode seems to alter the display faster than the same speed rpm in s or s#.
not sure if it's just the small movements of the pedal are smoothed out in the map of the Ecu read has some other code.
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45 minutes ago, Johnnynz said:
Its really weird when I think about it because everything else is serviced and changed probably too regularly. Its just something I have overlooked now I think about it. And if I remember right its a prick of a job.
Can't you do the tube up through the wheel arch trick and funnel it down that way.
Last rear diff I did I used royal purple and they have squeeze bottles for gear oil. Easy as.
also used those cheap hand fuel pumps bulbs in the past, but gear oil smells so bad.
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The dilution of the left over will Offset any gain booster gives.
still I get your point fuel isn't always as it claims.
run it out and fill it a little and run it out again a few times.
then fill it up a lot.
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I finally got the vortex generators I ordered. Ones for aircraft so smaller and very lightweight.
But it's raining and I can't test the best location to install them until it's dry.
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Octane booster... Lol.
adds 3-5 points to fuel so you get 98.3 or 98.5.
Marketing is wonderful, most people assume points are whole numbers not 0.x
The lucas upper cylinder lubricant stuff isn't actually bad but adds no octane. Was a lead replacement as well. But change the fuel filter as well afterwards in case S*** is getting flushed through.
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If you know you are going to abuse the car get a bigger rear diff cover with some good fins and a little more capacity. Someone must make one.
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I'm thinking of a custom one, copied from WRC, but still drains back to block and with vent to intake.
no water lines to make install easier, since it vents to intake the water should still stay as steam and get drawn out.
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Those guides are just that, a typical guide for dealers and normal drivers. Also inspect is a 'replace if needed'
They are minimum requirements!
For people who don't like cars and think getting to the speed limit is something that takes time. Corners also tend to scare those people too.
I just change it all every year (old car was every track event too). Good thing I do as last owner didn't take care of much and car dealer signed service book without service. I've also see dealers miss things or not bother when busy.
few hundred extra a year will pay off over time if you want to keep the car more than a few years.
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Bump.
any update?
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Car: 2008 jdm sti
Tuned: stock engine (cute little factory turbo. Should be painted pink like the manifold. Missed marketing by Subaru there)
Fuel: BP 98
Fuel economy:
7.8L/100km highway (akl-ham, roadworks and traffic)
10.8L/100km back roads (some boost and passing)
14.4L/100km pushing 8/10th on twisty roads (25-35 marked corners, gorges and mountain pass.)
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once you hack up the valve see if it has a one way in it so people know if you can drive with the fault.
how much for blanking plates?
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Check the boost lines are all ok and no boost tap hidden away from the previous owner.
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How many people are running these and which one or brand?
seems to be highly recommended idea for the EJ but the prices for them seems crazy.
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https://www.kathmandu.co.nz/travel/travel-essentials/travel-towels.html
you just missed the 40% post Xmas sale. Macpac etc all have similar products and sales.
Id still stick with regular towels with the deeper pile so it won't scratch if anything ends up in it.
Then again I dont clean the car often.
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Actually won't boost cut log a fault code about waste gate or is that later models only?
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I'm with everyone one above on its the boost cut.
high gear,low rpm and heavy throttle produces a huge amount of load that is great for building high boost pressure.
if it has a aftermarket downpipe and no tuning it will be over boosting. Some stock turbos can push 24 psi or more under that low rpm load.
or those manual boost controller bleed valves to raise boost in a car, bad idea with Ecu controlled boost.
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Most USA big brands make them. Think those ones are Russell but even edelbrock make them I think, speed bleeders is even a brand.
around usd$7 each but shipping will kill you from most stores over there as its all ups or dhl.
rallysportdirect takes only 4 days even the week before Xmas. Customs will take longer if you get over the nz$1000 mark including shipping.
Group buy to save on shipping? That or one of the sponsors/advertisers of this site maybe able to get them.
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Just don't make the mistake of jacking up one side of the car only. For Swaybars it's got to be level on the ground or both wheels in the air or the bar is under high tension.
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Speedbleeders... The bleed valve on the brakes has a one way valve inside. Normally they are just a hollow tube.
So you loosen the bleeder it doesn't leak immediately, as the little spring in the one way valve stops it.
But once you press the pedal it bleeds as normal, but when you let off the pedal it seals and air can't get back in.
You can bleed brakes without anyone helping. It's like having four of those little self bleeder bottles built it. Still need a but of tube and container to collect the mess and not clover the inner guards. Even if someone is helping still prevents accidentally letting air in.
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Swaybars can slide around. Later models have steal bands and aftermarket ones come with clamps to stop it. There may have just been a band around there that's fallen off. As @evowrx said grease may have prevented one side not rusting. One bush may have been replaced before and they never greased it.
those brackets are weak which is why white line Swaybars come with extra braces to link them back to the subframe. You can buy them separately as well I think, but they come with the bigger Swaybars in the bag.
I'd get a level or string with weight at the end and see if both sides are the same angle. Could be just something was there, even so coloured paint that was wasn't then.
if you're worried about the car being straight, some panel shops will put your car on a laser level and measure the chassis compared to factory spec. Within 3mm is fine and don't panic if one or two measurements are out on the screen as they get checked as it's usually a bolt or something sticking in the way of the laser. The shop will check these and let you know and mark the printout.
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Yeah I got that...
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Impreza seat mounts what years are the same?
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
No one in there says much after your post other than v1-8 are good.