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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Top steering rack seals. Nothing special, verified same part number and everything. Was expecting $80 or so. relays are also way cheaper on partsouq.
  2. Yeah I gave up when it was 6 weeks and $230 for a seal from Subaru NZ which was $30 from partsouq. Even with slow cheap shipping took 7 days DHL is quicker to ship around the world compared to the time anything takes in NZ.
  3. You generally should replace them at 80k to 100k, but you can inspect them to get an idea of how f***ed they are and if it’s way past due. removing the cover and look for the same things as worn or old tires. Cracking on the side where it turns around pulleys surface cracks chipped or missing teeth threads coming out from the middle cuts or strips tearing off press your fingernail into it and it should bounce back and not leave a mark. It’s make of rubber so if it’s not bouncing back it’s rotted. id you don’t have receipts for the last replacement then plan to do everything including pump tensioner and pulleys (the smooth ones not the cam gears)
  4. Are those skinny 17” rims? and wow that paint on the white line rear bar drivers end looks horrible.
  5. please turn the phone sideways next time so the video is the correct way around.
  6. Have you checked you didn’t know or cut any wastegate pipes. or the tps sensor isn’t plugged in.
  7. Randomly found a video on the 5 speed and the guy in he USA who rebuilt 1000’s says the gear break as they are too thin for increased torque. the 2014 6 speed from the WRX is apparently basically a 5 speed sized gear and breaks the same. they replace the gear sets and have little to no issues. so stronger gear material is worth it compared to rebuilds or replacing the gearbox over and over.
  8. Nope but sounds like battery maybe s***. if you have a charger put it on for a bit before you try and start it. Loads of battery issues with the lockdowns and sitting for months. in the morning after sitting overnight you get problems. After a drive it’s got enough charge to not have issues for a while.
  9. Ask @Niran because sleeves are needed from the thinner walls and guessing as they liked the rod ratio.
  10. What @Andy_Mac said it’s mapped to a target torque/power map that is calculated to/from a bunch of things. some models the boost limited could be different in I vs S and S#. In I the foot to the floor maybe only 80%. Mainly S# is S but with throttle getting to 100% way before the end of the travel. Much faster response.
  11. Mine has. 2.5” on the cat back joint only and made no difference.
  12. That sounds like a nightmare. VTNZ are great at not knowing WTF they are talking about. Been to one that didn’t even know what LVVTA cert plate was.
  13. I’m guessing NZTA not VTNZ https://www.nzta.govt.nz/contact-us you could also try to get the old owner to do a personalised plate transfer form if you can find out who registered it.
  14. Ok now I’ve put some km on these in wet and dry I will says very much softer sidewalls than the RE00x series. Running stock pressures. much softer and forgiving in pit holes, not so much dash rattle. grip is slightly lower. grip loss is progressive and very easy to pull back under control. The RE are much more snap loss of grip and skittish when they grip again. wet performance is very close to dry. You’d need standing water on very smooth roads or the track to upset them.
  15. Not that I found. wreakers sell the sets often with the controller unit and locks. last I looked partsouq had no stock and the wreakers was the only option.
  16. And we wonder why it’s so hard to get a WOF
  17. Case flex was a Nissan GTiR problem. I thought you ate selector forks and bearing as well with flex. No amount of bracing fixed them. It slowed it but the flex would still kill them. Anyway I just took the offending gear and box to hear cutting services (Mt Wellington in Auckland) and they worked out the new gears. They remade so the same and some in new ratios as 5th was to tall. worked with stock synchros and all. There wa s the option of dog engagement but then that’s often cheap from older rally cars teams.
  18. It’s always been something that pissed me off when places used too much. the hylomar stuff doesn’t break down and let go as much which could be the reason it’s in the service manuals of some manufacturers.
  19. I got that but not dog box ones. Just OEM style but better material. last gears I got cut the metal they used was the same as the 900hp hill climb cars and not straight cut. The cutting and time was the cost.
  20. So why not get the gears made in stronger material. It’s actually not that bad of a price last time I got some made.
  21. What is failing in all these gearboxes? Do you have short shifters fitted?
  22. Yeah but the 08 upwards are the biggest leap in Subaru since the BC era. they may not be pretty but they are more powerful and way more grippy. s*** even the S-GT is pretty good with a sway bar to get rid of the factory softness. have you gone for a drive in the newer ones. Sure it’s not the STI but the chassis is stiff compared to the older generations. or you can add a cage to get 80% or the new chassis improvement.
  23. AOS air oil separator as well.
  24. What @RaKid said. most are just a coil inside to make an electro magnet, since it is pulling a bit of metal and not another magnet the polarity won’t matter. some are but then the wires are coloured, marked in writing or unit will be marked. MAC ones are all black. the only ‘guide’ I’ve seen is to do with which side the switching is on. The ground lead should be switched which is what ECU’s and boost controllers do. Unless it’s USA v8 based stuff then some have switched positive and switched negative to choose from.
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