Gripless

I checked the car park for any fresh oil patches.

https://www.classiccover.co.nz/performance/ NAC is a joke unless you have lots of tickets or convictions. The limit maybe as they can’t find the model so think it’s not an sti. does the plate show up in carjam?

There’s a late 90’s car audio scene for model and a radio control cars.

Some newer models have 18x7 or 18x7.5 so maybe tire option for those .

Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils are still intact and measure the same. also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.

Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ has clear codes process in the post.

FYI https://www.jdmgarage.co.nz/products/7307 these originally didn’t come with the rubber grommet and used the factory style spring c clips. They are bendable and just mount under one of the knuckle bolts. Being open at the end means you can move the lines without unbolting things. I had them go through LVVTA many years ago without issue.

Well most things are made in China. Buying locally it’s likely the same sensor with more middlemen markup.

Yeah the newer ones are all 4 pin. All basically the same but the sensor or heater is grounded via the sensor housing in 3 pin. Ox336 checks out listed for 89-93 BC ej20 for both SOHC DOHC and turbo or NA. Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006776700268.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004475249658.html around NZD $25 plus $16 shipping and they add gst etc at checkout.

Use partsouq with your chassis number as the search, don’t even need to log in. under engine cooling section, there will be exhaust section, and then tap on the short number for sensor and it’ll popup the Subaru part number and any substitutes. The Subaru part numbers seem to match Denso You can aliexpress a part number as they list Subaru part numbers Or generic search https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Denso-o2-sensor.html

If it helps the newer one is Denso 22690-aa850 from sti 4 pin sitting on the table. Which makes sense with part numbers… 22690AA850 from GR 22690AA700 from BC5

Ordered steering shroud plastic that fits paddle shifters. ordered rear hatch release button ( dual button version) 63270FG011 since it is more goo than rubber now.

If all 4 are the same diameter there is no diff issue. Only the speedo will read out by the increase or decrease in diameter. wider wheels when turned travel inwards towards the frame more, so can rub. Or the rear bumper mounts where it connects to the wheel arch can rub too.

Subaru wants only 5-6mm difference. Wheels and tires are cheaper than a diff rebuild kit. Did you change front or back wheels, and how low is the car? Look at something like this where you’ll see more data… https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=205-50-16X6.5ET55&wheel2=225-50-16X7ET48&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm look at circumference … 64mm per revolution difference in travel revolutions per mile … 27 additional rotations per mile or 17 per km scrub radius .. 4mm per side off the factory rotational centre when turning front wheels None of the calculators take into account. stretch so look at tire specs to see their rim size and if you are in that range there shouldn’t be any. Tire pressure also running higher or lower pressure changes rolling diameter

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1774491 seems power is lower until 4500rpm. But then turbos now spool faster and make more boost by 4500. Mine is 26psi by then and that’s only on the 2.0L but given cosworth are usually road/rally product the losses should be small and the gains worth it.

The only reason I didn’t get one originally was the top mount mounts aren’t there. If I’d managed to get the water air sorted then I’d have fitted this.

Fitted paddle shifter assembly to steering column. T30 torx approx 6 ft-lb for airbag 17mm hex approx 34ft-lb for steering wheel the frame fits over the clock spring and needs 3 new fat screws, two will be hidden behind the wheel, the lower middle goes right next to the steering column lower shroud screw. The upper two mounts are shared with the wipers. So you just have to undo them slide the paddles into place and refit those upper screw into the nuts welded to the existing wipe mounts. while there also added cruise control and audio buttons since they need the back plastic cover off to get to the screws. turns out my car though one of the earliest GRBs it has the alloy steering wheel frame mounting point for the later phone and s# buttons. It also has an unused lower connector on the clock spring so that maybe for those buttons. Having the s# button from legacy maybe a fun option. i think the si-drive buttons are connected to the dash which then sends canbus to ecu. That would make a second wheel to dash button very simple and likely why it’s an option on the legacy.

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/collections/new-products/products/cosworth-subaru-inlet-manifold Not sure when these came back but they were hard to find even 5 years ago. cheaper option than process west

Fitted new gear knob not as nice as OEM one but leather stitching was falling apart. top writing on Chinese is directly printed on plastic. OEM one writing in on a layer covered by clear plastic. oem one also far heavier as metal core.

Did the foam surround finally wear out? let me guess the factory stereo has one of these in it? Or the newer Bluetooth ones

Fitted one side of the tail light tint. on a back car it is so much better looking, film was easy enough on the inner lights but the outer ones have some heavy curves. The top curve has some wrinkles, but no one who sees the car driving along. will try to get the other side done tomorrow

Model: GRB Displacement: 2 L Mods: stock crank, case, intake manifold. PW top mount Kelford 262 B cams, bigger valves, cnc ported. 1200rpm smooth idle. EFR7163 with 300e front cover making 30+psi from 6000rpm bottom end good for 850-1000hp RCM studs, bolts, oil baffles etc forged things. Fuel: 98/e85 Tuner/dyno: PBMS 300wkw on 98 360wkw on e85

If you have access to 98 300whp is hard not to achieve. Down pipe and tune gets that on a 2.0 depends what hurts your back. But have a google about rebolster seats. You can really alter almost any stock covered seat. I added 5cm foam to lumbar on mine. Have also removed some tension on the mid for other people who wanted a more curved seat. Add a yoga mat over the spring and add one or more of these between that and OEM foam. You can have pretty much any level of adjustment you need. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006967901520.html suspension just fit the softer older struts and get a bigger rear Swaybar. Then bumps are soft but won’t lean in the corners.

Have been looking at replacing the armrest with single 8” or dual 6” for a while as when folding seats down in the hatch it’s a pain to have a subwoofer. I have an under seat 12” vpas10 or 12 mount to the rear seat back, as don’t like things under the seat. the new smaller model looks like it would fit inside the factory armrest cover. https://cerwinvega.com/products/vega-series-powered-active-6-x-8-subwoofer-vpas68 that would completely clear the hatch area as it’d folder down with the seats.