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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Ok my 2c TLDR; pretty much what everyone else has said. the oils cap isn’t directly on the cam cover like a inline engine since the heads are so low in the engine bay. That’s why no mess as the cams and rockers etc would have to splash oil all the way up the filler tube which is 20cm long and has a bend in it. over filling to 1cm is noticed in the engine note at idle and light load but still won’t break anything. 5mm is perfectly fine. The oils light is a problem. Firstly make sure it still works. From a cold start turn key to ACC and then ON but don’t start. The oil light should come on. If it doesn’t swap out the bulb and sensor ASAP. the dash lights are meant to be checked every time, not that anyone does. Ive had an engine oil pressure switch die and it came one short burst for a bit then stopped forever. It died at higher rpm when the oil pressure was normal peak being old it just gave up. I’d be tempted to replace the sensor anyway as cheaper than chasing low pressure and finding out it was a sensor the whole time.
  2. Gearboxes aren’t cheap and rebuilt ones cost even more. gearbox mounts new clutch need downpipe etc wiring and sensors firewall holes pedal set Cert. optional the dash to get rid of the old auto lights. Not sure on driveshaft length. ive not done a Subaru but they are known to have wiring harnesses to match the model. Lots of other males have both auto and manual wiring and it’s a lot easier when things clip into place. I wouldn’t attempt it with a car that is so common and new.
  3. Have you thought about the modern trackers like tile maybe airtag next year or even a cheap cellphone joined to your account as a child. Then you can track and set boundaries as well. The aim cost can be added for $20-25 a month with data only.
  4. As long as you realise 90% are all running on the same s****y servers in China from one company. It’s all just rebranded hardware and web front ends. ive seen the platform hacked and live track every car. Or changes the phone number that controls the car and mess with people. smart place that runs all those kid tracker/sos cellular units.
  5. If dissolving s*** in the fuel helps then you likely had some crap building up somewhere.
  6. In that case you may want to go look at the fuel filters
  7. Good thing that I have all inconel oversized valves almost identical exhaust port flows and nice turbo. It’ll rev as high as it feels like on the day it gets tuned... power goal and rev limit are not set numbers just as high as the want to be.
  8. Nope but I like high rpm and the valve train should be good for it. power likely taper off after 8500rpm as turbo runs out but life is hard.
  9. Well we will see. Balancing mine to at least 10k.
  10. Wear is from abuse or lack of maintenance. the wrong gear and low rpm would be far worse. If the factory ecu lets you do it then no problems, you can rev it to the redline if you like. Also if it caused excessive wear then the ecu would have been wired to the gearbox or clutch to stop it free revving.
  11. If your car has a down pipe or tune then it’s just the ecu tables that need tweaking. I guess just the wastegate control needs to be a little more aggressive.
  12. That code and going up hill in a high gear is usually over boosting. Ie the waste gate and solenoid range isn’t enough to keep the boost at target. maybe 57 is due to limp mode but 47 could be anything.
  13. I’d be running obd2 and checking the pedal and throttle readings dont leap around.
  14. The table is basically like throttle (horizontal) vs rpm and the values are the boost level on psi. that’s the 2.5L model and it’s trying to hit max boost of 13.34psi so say about 14 psi or 1 bar on a gauge.
  15. The weight of the newer cars is what holds them back from feeling fast. even the STI needs a tune to feel fast. But the handling is a lot better and the parts aren’t generally worn out. the 08-14 are the last of the cars without driver aids and radar crap so that’s a bonus. the sg-t is very soft from what I remember. I drive one before trying the sti and that was it. But the sti was still pretty sad until I found a tuned one. some slight lowering springs and a rear sway bar plus some wider rims with good tires and the sg-t is likely very nice and corner very well. The DCCD diff does make it corner nicer if you open it up which the STI feature. sg-t is probably easier to insure and really isn’t that attention grabbing.
  16. Likely have to call the smaller local wreckers in smaller towns. Not like it’s a common item.
  17. Top steering rack seals. Nothing special, verified same part number and everything. Was expecting $80 or so. relays are also way cheaper on partsouq.
  18. Yeah I gave up when it was 6 weeks and $230 for a seal from Subaru NZ which was $30 from partsouq. Even with slow cheap shipping took 7 days DHL is quicker to ship around the world compared to the time anything takes in NZ.
  19. You generally should replace them at 80k to 100k, but you can inspect them to get an idea of how f***ed they are and if it’s way past due. removing the cover and look for the same things as worn or old tires. Cracking on the side where it turns around pulleys surface cracks chipped or missing teeth threads coming out from the middle cuts or strips tearing off press your fingernail into it and it should bounce back and not leave a mark. It’s make of rubber so if it’s not bouncing back it’s rotted. id you don’t have receipts for the last replacement then plan to do everything including pump tensioner and pulleys (the smooth ones not the cam gears)
  20. Are those skinny 17” rims? and wow that paint on the white line rear bar drivers end looks horrible.
  21. please turn the phone sideways next time so the video is the correct way around.
  22. Have you checked you didn’t know or cut any wastegate pipes. or the tps sensor isn’t plugged in.
  23. Randomly found a video on the 5 speed and the guy in he USA who rebuilt 1000’s says the gear break as they are too thin for increased torque. the 2014 6 speed from the WRX is apparently basically a 5 speed sized gear and breaks the same. they replace the gear sets and have little to no issues. so stronger gear material is worth it compared to rebuilds or replacing the gearbox over and over.
  24. Nope but sounds like battery maybe s***. if you have a charger put it on for a bit before you try and start it. Loads of battery issues with the lockdowns and sitting for months. in the morning after sitting overnight you get problems. After a drive it’s got enough charge to not have issues for a while.
  25. Ask @Niran because sleeves are needed from the thinner walls and guessing as they liked the rod ratio.
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