Gripless

It my new form of automatic really high rpm to make gears longer

Also Amazon is still just as fast. like a week, long enough that I forgot I ordered a flex fuel sensor.

I checked mine is still parked up on the tracker.

Well since I burnt so much money so far I figured that balance is worth it. plus I kind of want 10k rev limit.

I have no idea on costs mine is stupidly expensive. I’d be waiting to see how it dies before making a call. likely replace the whole engine is easier. also how much do you like the car. Could be cheaper to buy donor can swap bits once it dies.

Maybe pull the door card away from the door as you try the central locking. May just be enough room for the cable end to move and unlock.

Yeah well guess I have to balance the whole motor anyway so more $ can’t hurt

Umm how come the electric unlock buttons on the remote or drivers door don’t work? they aren’t attached to the cables. if they don’t work the cable maybe jammed up tight.

Subaru America said no damper required for boxer in Subaru. pully is purely to drive the belts, otherwise damper is vital on inline or V motors.

I had partsouq orders through the last L4 no delays.

Forgot the wide-band also torn on pulleys, I like lightweight, but not under drive of alternator. On the other hand new higher rev limit it might be required. valve train is super light and cams aren’t aggressive so could pass 9500rpm plus rotating assembly is also way over spec and lightweight.

I like @Andy_Mac plan of new short block and add forged pistons. selling rebuilding what is left left depends on how it dies. Also how soon you catch it. I got my new motor for $1500. Sold as blown but it was only worn turbo and wastegate that was faulty. Otherwise it was clean and tidy. My stock motor had one bearing go and the last guy paid $5k to get that rebuilt correctly. Actually I maybe selling that soon with 30k km on it.

Well cos COVID and well all of 2020 since March being out of town, this got nowhere. Just as I go to restart it, the car door gets messed up in attempted thief. Then car got stuck for 2 months with first 2021 lockdown and getting insurance done. no insurance company issues they took claim in 10 mins. It got towed day before lockdown and got a bit lost between towing and panel beaters. Looks mint now though. So drop in to PBMS to say let’s go and lockdown again… WTF. Anyway not much left to buy or select. ECU will Emtron as not much choice with newer canbus car fuel system bits like cradle and flex fuel. Going to add sensor as why not. head gaskets depending on need but fire ring if possible ARP case bolts I’m pretty sure these got ordered but no idea where the ended up. have those spacers for intake to help drop temp need intercooler setup and scoop less bonnet headers well was going low mount but to much time effort so will fall back to twisted setup Maybe new radiator as well since it may run slightly warmer

You can make a U shape cover from the alloy crinkle heat shield so it is open at the bottom. That way the heat can escape just not up directly toward the plastic. repco sells it pretty cheap in big sheets.

Agree on rack ones. I’m on second set, few good potholes and they deform then pinch and wear out. I have group N for engine and gearbox which are fine. Even the spherical bearings are quiet. the pitch stop is 90% of the noise.

Which HPC did you get on them? the black heavy stuff or silver?

unless you are following something too close or stop quickly after loads of air will still flow through the intercooler and since you backed off the gas it won’t heat soak.

If you are careful you can just pull the top of the vent panel. Top of the Sti logo outwards and get 30mm or so gap. They just grab the rubber and pull away from vent. Only one side of the rubber is held on by tiny 4mm washers on plastic pins. if you get brave unscrew the side skirt from front arch and the the bottom of the panel has a small clip at the bottom. you can then cut or drill some more holes to get better flow. There is 40mm before you hit the actual car frame.

They aren’t fake. they have rubber flaps behind the mesh to block them. you rip it out and they work. you can cut more hole in fender to drag more air through.

When you take the rubber out of the side fender grills the hot air gets sucked out of the top of the engine bay through those gaps.

Lol I have an alloy one and it’s still in box after many years. pretty sure it’s still new in there.

4x2 wood in front of ramps works too.

I have an unused process west top mount kit spare. It’s in the box but wrapped in plastic and has cardboard over the fins. Was going to be carryon for the flight back from Australia, but then had upgrade from work and kept the box as more luggage allowance.

Oh what pads do you use? I had some semi ceramic one and they added around a hundred degrees to the temp. Stopped so well but got super hot. I have DBA rotors now, but not on the car I did all the testing in. The aftermarket discs do have a bit more surface area in the vents to cool better.

First get the temperature colour changing paint on the rotors to see how hot they actually get. https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-pads/measuring-brake-temperature someone at the track usually knows someone with a kit, and you don’t use much. That sounds like a drag and dust collector if you don’t need it. I had ducts on one car but the brakes got over 610c into them on the track. Blocked them for road use. Unless you are braking from 140kph or higher constantly then brakes cool pretty well on their own. if not get better discs. actually if your stock fluid isn’t going bad then likely the brakes aren’t too hot. Plus pads like being warm making them cold isn’t great.