Gripless

Test the terminals and joints at the relay first. no point rewiring just to find out the mount and socket is the issue.

The blink rate is controlled by resistance. the relay works if the dash lights work. Well in most cases the flasher relay only has one output that is share t dash and external. somewhere in the wiring or at a plug the dash and external lights will split. after that point on the external lights side you have an issue. Also do you have led replacement bulbs?

Depends on the shape but they aren’t usually complex so a scrape piece or Perspex or hard plastic and a file can make a new one. 3D printing won’t likely hold up as it shear strength you need.

Guess it isn’t listed as a part. usually it a small plastic part wth a spring. some cars it’s on the outside of the barrel and you can swap it over from another one. Under 83141 the cap see the rectangle cut out in the main part. That’s likely where the bit that is damaged is.

Yes way lighter weight and since forged the spokes are thin so do have better brake clearance than others. If you space stock wheels the steering gets heavy as the scrub radius increases. Stock brakes are bigger than the tires can cope with, so bigger brakes won’t do much. even 20mm wider tires the stock brakes still won’t be the weak point. those wheels also come in the factory gold tint if you can find them.

Most brands are made in China anyway. often they skip some finishing steps. Could be they skipped a chemical wash or final bake to save money.

Swapped the broken centre console sliding cover with aliexpress one. the aliexpress one doesn’t have a silver inset on the handle and isn’t rubbery soft touch like the OEM one. Which went off goes sticky. it’s an better match with the rest of the console plastic and looks nicer than the OEM one.

I found NZ post seems to hold items a few days and puts them into a single bigger bag for courier to deliver. Previously 4-10 days was normal, now it’s 7-12 days. tempted by the short shifter but it’s pretty short from factory. I do miss the cable shifter as you can raise them up so they are close to the steering wheel and keep the same throw. All I got was the sliding cover since one wrecker wanted $175 for whole console!

That would clunk pretty loudly

Ok so searching for some parts I found other random items, the cover I wanted but he other MAF blank plate I couldn’t find center console sliding cover $24 shipped https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005912313226.html alternator pulley dress up cover $50 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005523118969.html brake booster stop $60 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666874166.html short gear shift $55 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002466624862.html cam tools https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002906222456.html

You pretty much have to swap the auto brake pedal to manual one to fit clutch pedal for some or all the below unless you can go to LVVTA certification place and they say it’s all ok in writing. 1) it’s too close together for safe operation or fouls 2) it shares bolts or bracket with brake pedal 3) WOF will likely flag pedal of car is not automatic on next visit 4) drive shafts are swapped so while OEM are not original 5) your insurance maybe denied after an accident and they see the pedal 6) firewall is structural and weakens brake pedal mounts 7) firewall needs to be sealed so cutting and putting new holes is also red flag 8) some cars the firewall isn’t the same for auto and has less reinforcement Do NOT try and bypass or creatively interpret LVVTA rules. Always ask and get it in writing every time. Also any future plans or mods that go to LVVTA may cause issues. i certed my swap a few year later when did coilovers etc. mine was pretty easy as had all OEM parts and even a template for drilling the clutch master.

Nope was free swap for decades

The ‘eventually’ part says sell it. If you don’t have the funds to do it now then sell before it becomes a money pit. Also doesn’t manual conversion require cert etc now, was way easier before.

Nope was pretty good inside, just shims and a few synchros. Seals as well but no bearings or costly things. Parts from partsouq are -$250 shipped. Also confirmed the helical front lsd which I don’t think was in the original box.

Well gearbox rebuilt and setup correctly. holly s*** what a difference. Now no gear shifter slop as it had previously even with all rubber bushings replaced. no whine on lift off either

Perrin and other brands say 08-20 for top mounts What do you need?

Wow that’s a horrid idea. California does have some crazy emission rules.

Most cars only have 2 Anything pre turbo would kill exhaust pulses so unlikely one in up pipe.

That’s got to be a s*** time. hHeard the same with other brands saying things verbally but won’t commit to writing it so LVVTA pretty much has its hands tied. only the coder of the device would actually know how it works and what would through it all out.

Sounds like anything that moves or repositions a sensor will not be legal or even able to be certified. So things like wide body kits, grills even mirror that have sensors cannot be moved or get get in the sensors way. Parking sensor should be ok as long as they aren’t used by other systems. Though not sure on how you prove this. eg Lane assist accident warning system radar cruise control Cars mostly other than wide body likely ok. Utes and trucks that fit large bull bars, winches, longer tray or canopies could be caught out. Since they are the ones historically that get the modifications and are starting to be sold with all the electronic aids.

5k in 2014 was normal rebuild price with just rings and bearings. there’s a good chunk of cost pulling and refitting motor that won’t be in forged build price. Just assembly would be 7k in labour. You can also waste time and cost measuring up and washing all the old parts on rebuilds. Most places will still strip the bottom end for inspection as you already know the valves hit the pistons. forged is 3k for rods and pistons which you can add to any build. For forged you also spending 7k more for the same power unless you plan on more power. Then you really want ported heads on the list so that adds $$$ What are you calling a crate motor? Even secondhand unchecked ones are 7k range

This would work 3 fuses, and flasher relays do come in the same footprint as these common relays just dont need all 5 connections. They run 2-4 depending on type.

MSword is slightly better than MSpaint Things in drawing are: Temperature switch, pump, solenoid. 4 Channel relay timer Battery Piping not shown I'd add: an indicator flasher relay between the solenoid and relay 4 NO connection for best efficiency and water savings. Also fuses should go between battery and relay common for relay 1,3,4 based on cable and device size. Heat-shrink and terminal fittings rather than bare wires etc Solenoid can either sit directly after pump and recirculate water back before pump or Sit between nozzles (or nozzle pairs if you run 4) so it alternates left/right or top/bottom for longer evaporation time

Pump depends on the jets you use: windscreen or headlight washers are lower pressure mist and irrigation are higher pressure Hose needs to fit and hold pressure of: pump nozzles Tee pieces one way valve. Needed for washer and high flow irrigation nozzles. Irrigation no drip while not one way do the same.

True cost is not low but no fab work is huge saving. My EFR is nearly twice the price it was 4 years ago. Does it fit LHD… no idea. Also not twin scroll so 2.5L only unless you want to swap back for rumble with isn’t uncommon.