Gripless

I used to do all this sort of thing and wasn't going to do much with the current car. Since the replacement speakers have made it both better and worse I've started playing again. So far only an auto EQ amp but another is likely on the way as is a new 10' or dual 8" subs in a custom enclosure.

Just had a thought, well two. First these would mount behind the mechless double din units Second you could mount two of these amp side by side in line with car by cutting the top and back off. Leaving a nice shelf and the door to hide the front RCA block with the controls forward iso you can put the mic in or adjust the options. you could cut a few extra holes in the bottom to allow more air flow. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing-2746320292.htm You can run these as a bi-amp with the builtin auto crossover and the auto EQ works it all out. So bi-amp first as front mid and tweeter with auto EQ and second amp for rear coaxial and sub without auto EQ and still has sub control from headunit.

managed to solder and heat shrink the amp loom to the cut up ISO to ISO loom ready to clip into the car. Dash is half stripped, but found there is room above the lower tray in front to the gear shift and below the centre vents to fit the amp. It's going to hang suspended at the corners by cable ties. There is so many random plugs and sensors back there it can't sit on anything flat. ran out of daylight due to old soldering iron sulking and not staying hot for long periods. The temp controlled one refuses to even heat up enough to melt solder so it got to visit the bin. Tomorrow is find a good grounding and bolt the new grounding ring terminal too. Try to did out some split tubing to wrap the cables so it looks factory and is nice and protected. Also Kicker 200MB WAV files are slow to download limited to ~44Kb/s WTF is the point of Gigabit fibre?

Not sure if anyone currently looking or if they are on sale all the time but... On special under winter specials was $199 sale $128 https://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/zeroflex-zf8fd-8-240w-120w-rms-subaru-factory-repacement-car-subwoofer-with-easy-finance-9273

Ok it’s tiny. length is only as Car stereo is wide. 1.5x stereo wide 0.75 stereo height can squeeze it behind glovebox but it’s a weird angle and need to make little 4x4 cm flap to keep heater vent blowing on the very edge. when it stops raining I’ll pull the drivers side under steering wheel and there should be way more room. it’s so small likely you could stuff it behind the centre vents but then you can’t get to it and that plastic gets a bit hot.

Ok since i seem to keep ordering things from here for the car and raspberry Pi usually ship next or even same day so far everything has been as expected. these are OEM to aftermarket speaker plugs which are sure helpful either as the are or cut the end off to screw to crossover. https://www.wavetech.co.nz/SPKR-HARNESS-1/ ordered another ISO to ISO loom to clip between the current setup to add a mini amp and EQ.

Based on New Plymouth great friendly team Actually does know Subarus Good service and worked to get things done on time even when some specialist tooling and work need to be outsourced. http://www.hodgemotors.co.nz

Can’t you just edit the forum section description which it picks up? in the forums config where you make and delete new sections, find general FAQ and change the text description. it may know the software we use and pick a section of a set type or number which happens to be knowledge base in our case. Eg knowledge base could be section number 1 and people added general later but the display order is changed to make general appear at the top.

Yes and i own way way way way to much audio gear. time alignment is s*** unless you can change the seating location, pioneer did that with theirs. Flat is ok if your speakers are flat response but generally lower end ones aren’t Compared to home speakers car speakers are really s***. Making them flat at the amp is good since the head unit can still make the personal touches. 41 band eq in amp to get rid of the speaker issues has to help the harsh response jumps. plus parametric in headunit can make personal touches. I have 5-7 bands there. when I had awesome speakers in the car and auto eq with the old pioneer hedunit it sounded really good. But that was $1299 a pair components. Which are now in a swift I don’t own somewhere. have very similar eq to you on my pc with APO eq which is free. for headphones something like massive cut at 35 and below -24db headphone suck down low Wide bump at 50hz +3db curve looks like ported sub response tail ends about 100Hz wide bump at 400hz vocals 1.3db depends on headphones I’m using. Notch at 1.66kHz but very narrow Q. Seems to be an area most speakers spike up a bit. Moves between 1-2kHz depending on headphones. Roll off over 12kHZ but don’t need it as much anymore with the burson DAC headphone amp it’s super accurate and detailed. Heaps of the eq issues are the bloody op-amps so replacing those is worth it.

You make me feel bad. ive had my car nearly 4 years and snowed it once the other week. only other time it gets washed is when serviced and the apprentice has to clean it. today i waxed the bonnet, roof and top of front guards... the lower areas are covered in tar spots 😔

Yeah imprint is the same but $500 if you get the mic to DIY well i ordered one just now so I’ll see if it can fix these speakers. need to grab some short RCA cables to link it all in i also like the idea of the kicker making it flat and then using the head unit eq to make it more how i like. That way super easy to change and won’t need the mic again. the H800 does that as you drive so is real time and way better but about $1000

Look the inter cooler fin design won’t be as efficient as process west by miles but it should be as good or slightly better than OEM thing with plastic ends. So the increase is size will make the difference. just pressure test it before fitting and if it fails get it swapped. stuff from China is often from the same factory but cheaper brands have lower or no testing or quality control.

I was looking for a Alpine imprint or H800 unit but this seems way better and works with the factor stereo. Plus the H800 requires a seperate amp. can also run from speaker inputs or RCA and remote on lead like normal. could be an option for Macintosh systems as well??? video in action not the best but enough to hear the difference. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qxE6Ew4Q2ha/p_206KEY1804/Kicker-KEY180-4.html https://drivingsound.co.nz/product/kicker-key1804-key-smart-amplifer-acoutstic-correction/

Initial feedback is that it works. you still need to seal the doors with traditional rubber/tar and alloy mat but it helped the floor and hatch area a noticeable amount. stuffing the very rear across under the latch with 3layers killed a lot of drone.

Lower end coaxials lack even more bass and have worse tweeters so they maybe pretty quiet down low. seems google for reviews states the same lack of warmth and low end. there is a fair amount of room to clear the glass. The mounts are about 2cm from the door. But as I found out you loose 5mm or so to get the higher cone travel to not high the door skin. I have a CV sub all in one unit on the back seat so that picks up the low end for me. also driving today I can tell the improvement was worth it for the road noise etc as well. I think the last bit is the back of the hatch under the latch were it’s hollow and there is no sound deadening. I may just roll up some of the quilted sheets and stuff it in as a test.

Nope same as yours originally just the mids. the tweeter wiring is all there but no tweeter in the triangle cover. The factor tweeter is just clipped in and has a capacitor attached. It’s not really and audio upgrade. I swapped to infinity reference coaxial and they suck. Vocals are either harsh or muddy as it has a big peak in response near the upper vocal range. They good for some music with guitars but vocals not so much. the staging is actually good and music sounds high up on the top of the dash so the stock mounting is pretty good. Looking at swapping to alpine type S separates front and coaxial rears. Will mount tweeters over mids like coaxials but like the full cone of separates for the extra mid bass. alpine have silk tweeters so are much flatter response and musical.

Found the area around the clip I missed. Door skin clips in again. tried to adjust the eq on the stereo but I think the speakers are too s*** to get good sound from. much 😔 To EQ or to replace speakers? pretty sure speakers are likely to need replacing. infinity low end speakers are bad, really bad. rockford even the punch are not great so now have to find something nice.

Finished drivers side sound deadening for doors and floor today. just need to trim a small bit and refit door skin. It’s pushed out 3mm around one of the clips so I must have missed trimming a bit. put a few sheets of quilting across under boot false floor as well. exhaust sounds loud but very much at rear of the car so something has stopped the in cabin drone.

I think it’s more that if’s it like the carpet everything is interlinked and clips love to snap off. I’ve snapped one of my sill clips the plastic seems very soft. and the door car around speaker cracked as well. i snapped a inner fender clip on @Niran car when we did the airflow mod. even my s*** 90’s car never broke clips like this car. i cut 40% of my Mitsi dash out to save weight and it never split or broke... I have little faith in Subaru plastic.

And 2 months after letter sent it arrived. now I have the joy of seeing how much they will f*** up the dash.

I’d say the ECU is and was fine. if it’s reporting a consistent error then that’s generally a good thing. isnt there a diagnostic menu option for test running the fan. Subaru dealers should have run that test. simple one turn the AC on and see if both fans go. You can also drive around and see if the fans come on when the car gets hot.

Is this the factory alarm or some random aftermarket one? Is this the progress? 1) car wouldn’t start I guess 2) suspected fault with the immobiliser. 3) replaced the controller for immobiliser 4) new fan fault code appears now car goes 5) replaced ECU 6) still have fan fault code

Ok so I have no idea if it helps with heat as it’s not that cold yet. but... First drive while I’m not sure it makes a big difference... the exhaust note seems to be more rearward and seems that’s likely due to a little less drone in the front of the cabin. it’s still loud as f*** but I think there is enough improvement to notice so I guess I’ll do the rear foot wells and under seat plus go all out and cover the hatch floor. And it’s on special today so basically free shipping at 6 sheets

Forgot The Wife 101

What machine of the heads are you referring too? looks like you need the pistons machined to have valve pockets for clearance. generally you want a gap of 1-2mm around and under the valve face to get good flow and allow for any thermal expansion. where about are you located?