boon

Mine did all sorts of odd stuff when the wheel bearing and hub on one side were completely shagged... does it make any squeaking/cracking sounds? Note, there was no play at all, it sailed through a WOF and several hours of my confused mechanic playing with it until we pulled it all apart just to check it.

Mmm I'm with CLIC. Have to see what's happening. I have a solid no-claims bonus with them which makes my insurance a LOT more affordable. Still 4 figures a year though, D'oh!

My old wagon used to sound a bit like a diesel when you started it up in the morning. It was basically because one of the previous owners used to thrash the tits off it cold so it had a tiny bit of piston slap. Went away when it was warm and between myself and my cousin (who I sold it to) we put a fair few kms on it with no problems.

Get a VF34 if you can. I went VF30 -> 34 on my V7 and it was a night and day difference in terms of driveability. VF34 is well spooled at 3000rpm (motorway 109kph cruise RPM), you just squash the throttle and away you go. VF30 is still tieing its shoelaces at 3k.

I might just look for a silver V7 door at a wreckers. Probably be cheaper, god damn it. Seriously investigating some CSI level paint matching gas chromatography through some contacts I have.

So some dork dinged my STi in the Reading Cinema carpark and the security footage can't see who it was. Anyway, now I have to get a respray and some panelbeating of (at the very least) my right rear door, part of the guard, and maybe my rim (I mean honest to god how shit do you have to be to hit someones RIM?!?!) Where to go? Cheers.

Finished paying for it. Feels good. If only some f*cker hadn't dented it a couple of weeks ago it would feel even better.

Sooo many things it can be, massive pain in the rear. See if it still does it with the RCAs unplugged from the amp.

I dare say it'll be headed north. Was it alarmed?

Just do it when you do your downpipe... if you haven't swapped it already.

I quite liked them, personally. Except now I have a dirty great WRC wing waiting for paint ;D

yep my car does have a free flow performance straight exhaust from intake Still doesn't stop the turbo just screaming out hot air after about 20psi...

My GF's uncle once woke up to a couple of dudes trying to break into his shed. He called the po-po and they said they didn't have any cars available to come and investigate. So he waited a couple of minutes, called them back and said there were 2 guys trying to break into his shed so he shot them. 5 minutes later there's 4, yes 4, police cars in his driveway and 2 arrested would-be thieves. Cops threw a bit of a nutter at him, like YOU SAID YOU SHOT THEM?!?! and he replied AND YOU SAID YOU DIDN'T HAVE ANY CARS AVAILABLE... I think they left it at that

23psi on a V7 is pointless unless you have a whole bunch of supporting mods. Dyno has proved time after time that they don't make bugger all power beyond ~19psi, the turbo just turns into a hot-air blower, becomes very inefficient. Maybe if you had a front mount, good intake setup and a flowy exhaust...

Ohakune Mountain Road when it's not full of Aucklanders in X5s who think a spattering of rain is good reason to drop it into low-range and crawl up the road at 5kmh. I get it, you have lots of torque. I don't until I hit 2800rpm and then I'm roaring up your trumpet. RARGH!

I'd be ever so slightly tempted to let them keep at it while getting the nearest po-car to come and investigate. That's cos I'm small and white. If I was big and brown I would totally effect a citizen's arrest and restrain them by keeping their fingers firmly restrained between the door and the car.

That sucks. Seriously looks like a good old 'take back the car' job to me.

Stuck a real-time scan tool on it and took it for a drive, AFM was seeing hardly any air so leaning it out or something along those lines. Swapped in a new AFM and now it's great, and doesn't over-boost. God knows why.

Subaru cure-all - it was the AFM...

The aforementioned boost gauge. And a couple of non-engine related mods. That's it as far as I know.

My cousin just bought a V7 STi The stupid thing keeps going into limp mode (7psi boost limit) His boost gauge says his peak boost was 23.6psi - would this be enough to trip limp mode? Why would it be boost-spiking this high? It's almost completely factory. Cheers for any input!

Replaced the bottom half of my air filter box, some munter had broken all the clips off the old one. (Plus now I will claim it has a Spec C filter box for added JDM cred ;D)

Look forward to hearing this one... I'd like to think I'm pretty clued up on the whole audio thing and I don't see how a stiffening cap will degrade SQ...

OK - here's the test about whether some money-waste may have just occured. Turn your car off and give it some beans, see if the lights dim. If they do, your battery is poked, get a new one. If they don't, then what's happening is the dimming you're seeing is the drop from 14.4v (charge voltage from your alternator) to ~12.5v (loaded voltage of a normal battery). Your alternator is probably only a 90A jobbie. It takes probably 40 odd amps just to run your car so there's 50A for other stuff. So as soon as your audio pulls >50A (which happens quite quickly really) your voltage will drop from 14.4 to 12.5. A cap will help slightly but the only true solution is a high-output alternator which costs $$$ out here and who knows if anyone makes one for a subey.

I don't have one myself but we've installed a bunch of them. They go good in 1 cube with a 4" aeroport. Or you can get the 8" "Loaded enclosure" which is really quite nice, well built and carpeted, good grill and terminals so you can just rip it out whenever you need to.