boon
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Posts posted by boon
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I would say it's going to cost a whole lot more when it shits itself and your engine sucks pieces of the impeller through the motor and scores the bore.
And it will shit itself, if you're worried about more boost over 6500rpm I'm going to say you're either doing track work, so it will shit itself, or you're thrashing it, so it will shit itself.
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Batteries are a massive rip-off usually.
Believe it or not, Mitre 10 Mega does relatively cheap Bosch Golds which IMO are a pretty good battery.
Or pay a little more and get an AGM that you don't have to replace for 10 years and is OK if you run it flat 10, 20 or 50 times...
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Wait, it's not FULL Singapore spec (WRX with a couple of STI bolt-ons) is it?
Cos I think I see Brembos... it is missing the IC water spray bottle though so it's definitely not quite right (unless they've converted to 12L Spec C tank in the boot?)
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Prova tuned headers, 2002 headlights and grill.
It barks and wuffles now and still has a little bit of rumble at idle. Cool
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That's a write-off IMO. Looks like the sill is mushed in, as soon as the floor/chassis gets out of shape you don't want it any more anyway.
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Equal grounds for headunit and amps is pretty debatable, as is the proximity of power/signal cables. I've done more installs than you can shake a stick at and I've never had induced noise from close cables. The only time I've seen anything close was when my friend had coiled RCAs sitting on top of his fuel pump.
Seperate power feed is a good idea but rarely the cause of noise.
It's almost always a ground thing - broken ground/shield in an RCA, burnt ground track on headunit or amp RCA, or bad fusible link in a Pioneer headunit.
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Sent it for a WOF. Hoping it comes back OK haha.
Tomorrow - install tuned headers + uppipe (argh!), facelift headlights, facelift grill.
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Do you have a Pioneer headunit? Before you dive into changing other stuff...
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Limp mode?
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How long do you need it for and how much access to it do you need?
/quote]
basically semi permanent. not a whole lot of access, don't plan on using it but if i suddenly needed to pick it up i would like to be able to without hassle
I have a fairly huge double garage in Karori that's only going to have 1 car in it.
I'll talk to the flatties about it.
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Best to take the strut out and take it apart so there is completely no tension on it too. All the road grime/sand and grit get in the threads and jam them up so if taking the pressure off it doesnt work then the grinder better come out. I have a spare locking ring or 2 if you need tein ones?
The springs weren't captive so there was no pressure anyway.
They solved it - pulled the strut out, put it in a vice, smacked the ring with a hammer a bit, then froze it with a fire extinguisher and did the old punch-in-a-notch trick and it 'cracked' and came loose. Then they cleaned all the threads up and now it moves smoothly.
So now it has a cert
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Got a cert
And put all my mods on the insurance. Price increase: $0. Sweet, I guess I pay that much in the first place for a good reason.
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How long do you need it for and how much access to it do you need?
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have they got the strut out of the car? probably a bit more room to move .
they'll have to move at some point otherwise grind/tap and get new lock nuts.
Nah they haven't pulled the strut out yet, bit of a pain in the arse because you have to pull the back seat out blah blah to get to the studs.
I'm a bit staggered by how stuck it must be though. I mean I've seen them be stiff as hell before but usually at the very least putting a punch into the notch and smashing it with a hammer is enough to crack it.
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Have you given it a good driving yet? It may just need to settle a little... as long as it's not way, way out and making it unsafe to drive.
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So my car is in for a cert for the adjusties... turns out the rear springs aren't quite captive. They went to wind the spring platforms up and one of the locknuts is seized tighter than a nun's... well, you know. They've soaked it in CRC overnight, tried big ass c-spanners, putting a punch in the notches and giving it a good smash, and finally a 4ft long pipe wrench with a jack handle for more leverage and they still can't get it to move.
Any ideas?
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Dropped it off for a cert, found out the rear springs aren't captive (kinda knew that, forgot to wind the spring seats up before dropping it off hahaha ooops) and the exhaust is a shade too loud ;/
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I would say ~220kw.
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i sketch out sometimes on those hydrolic lifters.they sound s*** at night.best option man dont rebuld you motor.get your self a possum bourne short block.they sell 2 types.one thats forged and one thats not,price vairys.get you head reconditiond and youl be sweet.the blocks thy sell come under warrenty so youl be safe.
itl probly end up costing you about 6k.
Maybe a good option if he wants to build a 500hp motor but if it turns out the big end IS shagged it's way cheaper just to buy a front cut or some random un-opened long block off tardme... $6k, jesus I could probably replace my EJ207 for that.
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Unless they're Subaru specialists I wouldn't get overly worried right away. All subarus make a variety of individual and unique noises
Could be a little bit of piston slap... does it go away when it's warm?
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TV Headunit for BP Legacy to replace std screen
in I.C.E.
Posted
The 'best' is probably something from Pioneer, like the AVIC line, but it'll cost you ~$4000