Individualities

Was a hard decision to make thinking of it going to someone I didn't really know. But when my friend expressed serious interest, it was just so much easier. My bike will be my manual experience for quite a while anyway. I want to enjoy life as much I can, and driving round NZ on those adventures is something the S401 isn't very good at (fuel consumption). The Mazda will probably do me for quite a while as they're very practical cars, that go really well for what they are. Only thing I don't like is the 5 speed auto... but that's very minor.

Come to the conclusion that my time has come with my S401. It'll be leaving my hands in the coming months, as I simply cannot afford to own and run it with my other half wanting to do lots of road trips, as she's seen a lot of the world, but barely any of NZ (I'm the opposite lol). I've already found its new owner, which is a good friend of mine. He'll be continuing what I set out to do with it, which is tastefully mod it, namely on the suspension side - he's not too keen to change the engine up. What will I be replacing it with? Well... a motorbike for starters - a 2019 Royal Enfield Continental GT, and as for the car, a 2010-2013 Mazda 6 GSX wagon (the update one, as they get a lot of extras standard vs the release model). Having one of those will enable road trips for the both of us, and also her to drive it, as she's not a confident manual driver, and the Mazda will be auto. I do plan to own another Subaru in my future, but the time is not now. Probably when my grey hairs start to develop lol.

A customer of the shop I used to work at had a 10 3.6 Outback with the 5 speed auto. Towed her Horsefloat pretty well from what she said. Had it in the shop cos the electric brakes on the float were screwing up. I'd say you'd be ok with using it as a tow vehicle. But personally, something with a 3L diesel would better - say a Toyota ute/SUV with a 1KD-FTV diesel will be far better.

Just my 2 cents on an RX8... If you're gonna get one, get a series 2 (2008-2012 IIRC), as the engine has heaps of minor small improvements over the series 1, that makes it heaps better (for example 3 oil squirters for the housing, vs 2 in the series 1). Although, if you can find a rebuilt series 1 RX8, with the series 2 motor improvements, it'll be worth it. They're not a bad car at all, if you maintain and drive them properly. Can't avoid bad fuel economy unfortunately, that's just the downside of a Rotary. They're a great little chassis! Tons of fun! CarThrottle recently did a series on one, and Alex (the main presenter) absolutely loved it! Despite the extra work needed to maintain and run a Rotary. My Dad has a series 2 RX8 (Spirit R mind you), and it's load of fun! I love the sound of revving it out to 9000rpm. Although, if you're looking for a car to make more powerful, the RX7 with the 13B-REW is a far better choice, because of the peripheral exhaust ports (vs side port exhaust on the RX8). RX8's are great with suspension mods etc, where as RX7's you can make more power on them with a turbo.

I did the same thing too, but for a motorbike. Settled on a new Royal Enfield Continental GT. Gonna use some of my incoming inheritance for it. Such a wicked bike! The GF is also interested in a Classic 350... so I think I scored a good one of the female side lol

No thanks on the NZKW one! Hence why I asked Andy_Mac what he's gonna do with either of them. I'm more so wanting the Hardrace one, from what Andy has said about it previously. I'll be going down the Hardrace engine mounts and all that when I get my EJ207 and build it.

What ya gonna be doing with it/your old Hardrace one? I'm keen on either. ______________________________________ S401's at 199150km. Getting ready for it's 200,000km oil change! Done all the other 200,000km service things over the last 5,000km or so.

I will happily say that I prefer wheel nuts and studs over bolts. You can get thread in bolts for most Euro cars, that you can then throw a nut on anyway.

Going by your previous posts, you're Auckland based right?

New shifter boot is finished and installed. Made from proper hide leather, not vinyl like they do from factory. Doesn't fit as well as the original, but was a HELL OF A LOT CHEAPER than going for an original Subaru one (at about $450). The one made by the upholsterer was just over $100. Also painted all my interior lower plastic pieces one colour - Satin Black. Specifically using VHT paint. So simple process - ColorPak Plastic Adhesion promoter, wait 2 hours - ColourPak Grey Primer Surfacer, 3/4 light/medium coats 10-15 minutes apart, wait 7 hours for it to cure, then sand back with 600 grit sandpaper - VHT Satin Black quick coat enamel (followed instructions on can). Left them all for a week while I was away, for the paint to properly cure 100%, and they look good! Beats the fake wood finish plastic that was there before (someone had replaced the interior in my S401 in it's past, with something else).

People here have used @mlracing.co.nz and had good experiences!

@IZichard was talking to my old boss at the shop I worked at, and he says they're illegal. It's something to do with the "performance" of the retrofit LED bulbs. He says the VIRM that changed it was INCREDIBLY vague about it - took their lead WoF inspector to calling LTNZ about it, and getting the proper definition out of them. Probably due to a market flooded with cheap bulbs on Facebook and TradeMe, that are pretty damn average. Sucks for me, as I've only bought Philips/Osram branded bulbs, which actually say that they're better than incandescent bulbs. This is from what I've heard, and what you hear from someone else might be different. Depends on your inspector too, but for where I take my car, has to have incandescent

They've been illegal for a few months now. Not wanting to take any chances.

Swapped out all my LED bulbs for traditional incandescent for the WoF tomorrow. Only to put them all back in once I actually have the WoF lol

True true. Sadly my experience with Tein suspension while working in a Automotive shop that specialised in Suspension & Brakes has left me kinda with a bad opinion of Tein. They are probably not a bad coilover at all - just my personal experience with them on customers cars has not been mostly positive. I'm prepared to spend the big money in all honesty. For a lot of reasons. Probably the main reason is because a full set of original springs is BIG money (mine's sacked out in the back a fair bit, and this causes toe and camber problems when it needs an alignment). And a set of coilovers from MCA is not too much more, and I get new shocks (custom valved), adjustable height (I'd be running the car at basically stock height, with maybe lowering it for a track day if the opportunity arose), and adjustable dampening. Plus MCA's camber washer system is pretty dang neato - basically a permanently locked eccentric front strut bolt (for the camber).

The custom valving is what's drawn my attention, and the fact that basically you can make everything custom for them. I especially want the camber washers! $700 is a lot. But for what I want, it's worth it. I'd call MCA a high end brand myself. Definitely a brand to consider if you want a good set of coilovers in NZ/Australia. None of that Tein crap lol. I get very tired very quickly of how some people HAVE TO HAVE everything JDM 'yo

They've recommended me Street Ultimates, and I'm kinda convinced. I'd probably spec all the extras on their lower range ones, and they come out at a similar price to Street Ultimates as is. But I'm happy to be swayed into Essentials or something! Good to know. I'm after a set of slotted rotors, for the better performance, and the more purposeful look behind the wheels. I was gonna go through my usual mechanic in Whangarei, as I used to work there, and he generously still charges me trade price! Despite me leaving over 3 years ago. Can always compare quotes between them and your guy!

Getting ready to spend a fair amount of money on the mighty S401! - Set of MCA coilovers - Whiteline all the suspension bushings, and other little things - Znoelli DDS Rotors - Good set of street pads (open to suggestions here... or I'll just ring RaceBrakes) - Cert Should be good once it's all done! That's all I'm gonna do for the year I think. Depending on money, and if I decide to travel or not, I might upgrade all the diffs in the transmission/car too.

From the shifter bushing I've gotten from Corgiwerx (as has Andy_Mac), he seems like a top guy! And everyone who's had anything from him sings him praises. Only downside is that he's in Aussie...

Only happens when you've got steering lock on? If so, sounds like an outer CV joint is stuffed to me. I wouldn't know cost of replacement, but if you're a handy person, and have the tools, shouldn't be too hard to do! Just be prepared to get CV grease (a pet hate of mine) all over your hands and lower arms - I would STRONGLY advise wearing some gloves while doing the job lol. Be a good time to do the inner CV boot too if it's looking worse for wear.

February 8th & 9th 2020. NOT the Auckland & Northland Anniversary weekend (two weekends prior); weekend after Waitangi Day (6th). I'll be there! Gonna see about volunteering. Gutted I couldn't make it in 2019 - things didn't line up sadly . Website

I've heard quarter turn with a ratchet after they're snug by hand. The crush washer on the plug will hold them in there pretty good. I personally use copper coat on mine; just a smidge. Otherwise some sort of rust penetrator is another option.

Sexy! I need me some headers like those sometime! Also, Z436 - that's a pretty small oil filter! I've always run a slightly larger Z79AST on my 02 Legacy, vs the Z79X/Z495 that is listed. Edit: checked the Ryco listings - Z436 is what is listed for these cars. I'd advise going the Z436ST - they have a better filter in them, and are a long life filter. Also have a grippy surface on them, so don't need a tool to loosen them! Being an 07 Legacy, stock will be VF45.

Hmmmm. Maybe throw a little bit of 243 Loctite on the bolt next time you do the crank pulley bolt up? That's the mid strength stuff, so basically holds the bolt in place, and can be broken reasonably easily. Just an idea I thought I should throw out there... Also check to see if the tensioner is wet at the top, where the little rod comes out - if it's wet there, it means the internal seals have failed, and it's not providing proper tension. Also, some anti-seize on the bolts that hold on the plastic covers for the cambelt cover is a good thing to do - they're known to seize, and then be an absolute ass to get out if you break the captive nut loose in the plastic in the backing plastic(s).

I'm not sure if you pay attention to YouTubers who do car content - Adam LZ has a G25-550 on his SR20 S13 drift car, and that thing is mental! Hence why I mention it. Probably the only Garrett turbo I'd consider, from what everyone else is saying. Liking all this discussion too! I'm learning quite a bit! Thanks fellas!