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Posts posted by HannesNel
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12.8V to 3.3V within 1 cm? thats not standard volt drop you dealing with.
Its either a bad connection, some kind of resistances wired in (resistor etc) OR, albeit rare, a bad piece of wire - I have only seen it once so far in my life time.
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On 2/12/2019 at 4:10 PM, TNHSTI said:
Haha appreciate it mate
What did you do with your old steering wheel...I'm hunting for one in better condition then mine
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Open it up, check for loose connections
Check for dry soldering points - reflow board (heat gun, soldering iron etc - lots of ways to do it)
Check for dodgy capacitors
Check screen connection
Check screen power source
If you comfortable with a multimeter test each component
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Started the rear view camera installation this past weekend. Wired the main video feed from the front to the rear.
Tested the unit and all works well.
Now need to find a way to still mount the camera and just reconnect everything
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2 hours ago, thewabbit1 said:
I hooked mine up to the reverse lights, works fine.
If you have a look at the last few pictures of my install you can see that i was able to pass the cable through a grommet in the boot door. Not sure how applicable it will be to your car, but worth checking out.
Thanks! YIp wiring is not a problem but the actually camera:
Its one of these - basically got it for free so need to somehow mount it.
So either make somesort of bracket or box for it or drill through the bodywork to mount it.
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So my reverse camera arrived and I I want to install it this coming weekend.
It came with the HSS holesaw but not sure I want to cut into the body panel. Anybody come some pics of how they mounted theirs?
I am also considering hooking it up to the reverse light as its right there in the wagon door.
Any other tips?
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19 hours ago, Zeus said:
I'd probably advise not using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, keep the 2 separate.
Its made as both one side is the breaker head and the other side has the torque head
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7 hours ago, Individualities said:
I found removing my cam pulleys to be no problem with a power bar and a set of 3/8 allen sockets.
Keeping the belt on while cracking them loose them is needed, unless you have an impact gun that can fit in the tight space.
IIRC the torque for the cam pulleys is 98Nm? The crank pulley is over 200Nm, or f***ing tight in my mind lol. I didn't over tighten it though - just felt it up from when I un-did it.
Good tip thanks! Got my trusty breaker bar and torque wrench 2 in 1
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13 hours ago, Individualities said:
A cool head is needed for a Subaru cambelt - especially a DOHC one. There's a lot going on, and lining everything up can be a bit of a challenge. Took me 3 attempts to get the passenger side cams (when looking at the engine from the front) lined up, then belt on (the timing marks for them are such that the cams are under load when correctly timed - drivers side cams are unloaded when timed). Almost like I needed 3 hands.
Don't be afraid to ask for help! I'm sure one of the other members on here in Wellington would happily give you a hand!
Thank you! 3 hands might make it easier yes.... Anyone know an alien?
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Thansk gents. Yip, I want to attempt to do it myself.
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What is a good km's to get cambelt changed?
My legacy is almost hitting 80,000km and doesnt seem it has been done yet
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Gents, my exterior rubber seals and trims for doors,etc. are in bad condition. Are there generic rolls I can buy to replace all seals and trims?
When I redid my ford about 3 years ago one could buy these in rolls of 10-20meters. Any idea if this is available for 06 legacy's?
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Washed, rewashed, polished and waxed the car this weekend.
Also took off the AWD sticker on the back window as it was faded and dull.
Also removed the legacy badge as I have done with all my cars
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19 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
At that price it's getting very close to the Q300. Not sure which I like better really...
yip, but budget cant stretch that high...$500 maybe $600 for now
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thanks guys
$189.99 to pay according to the link provided by @1randomkiwi and @preim
So with shipping, it basically doubles the price of the mid+mufflers @Andy_Mac
Going to research for other solutions locally for a bit first
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oh bollocks....shipping is quite hectic and then still import taxes. Does anyone have an idea what kind of import tax I will be looking at for roughly $900 value?
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2 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
some would say the hogzaust mod is a pretty good representation of how it’ll sound with muffler deletes, worth a try
Or just wait for delivery from TCP auto Thanks Andy! Tony responded super quick and he has a quad tip set !
Waiting on what delivery will cost before confirming
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8 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Could also save yourself a bunch of money and do the hogzaust mod, or even just have the mufflers cut out and replaced with straight pipe and keep the stock tips.
If I ever went to duals i’d track down a set of Prova Fujitsubo ones, much more understated than other options out there. Think @sobanoodle had a set at one point.
That was my original idea to cut and straight pipe it but i dont want it to be to loud....
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11 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Not a fan myself, but I typically hate most dual cannon’s, they just never look right to me.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/kakimoto-racing-regu-06-r-exhaust-muffler-ble-bl5-bl9.html
oh thanks andy! there goes my afternoon - Haven't come across this site until now
If the dual cannon's are subtle and dont stick out to much I quite like them: https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-es-premium-muffler-bph-bp5-bp9-bpe.html
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Thanks @sobanoodle @Andy_Mac Let me google and research a bit.
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3 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:
If you just want it to be a bit more vocal then a pair of aftermarket mufflers will satisfy your cravings. These are in most cases a simple bolt-on application, no chopping/welding/fiddling required.
Alterations to the factory set up in form of muffler/resonator deletes usually result in raspiness and drone at cruising speed which you really want to avoid if you're a
and want to be
well put!
Ok thanks let me take a look at some mufflers. Any brands that is more suggested then others?
I still want to de-cat as well as I dont believe in cats...
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Just now, sobanoodle said:
You won't get any rumble out of it no matter what you do (unless you're prepared to do some serious modifications).
Removing mid-section resonator is a bad idea.
Bashing out the cat converter is a better one, but won't gain you that much noise-wise.
Upgrading to an aftermarket set-up will improve the situation but then again you will NOT get the old-school rumble you're aiming for
Thanks Sobanoodle! When you talk aftermarkets, are you talking full system from the manifold or just new piping and tips from the cat box?
I don't want serious rumble,boy racer, loud screaming everytime I slightly accelerate, just when I put my foot down. I am a dad after all and need to be semi-responsible
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On 1/1/2019 at 4:01 PM, iludez said:On 1/1/2019 at 3:47 PM, GorGasmSpecB said:Take the snorkel out and you will hear the factory blow off valve a bit.
Yep done that already still can't hear it.
Yip, my BP is also dead silent...but want to get it a bit more noticeable.
Let me start with this snorkel...where does it sit and how does one remove it?
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Ok, next up is to get some rumble from my GT.
Can anyone recommend anyone in the Wellington area to get the cat box removed and fit a straight pipe?
Or would removing the interals of the cat be enough to get a nice rumble?
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by HannesNel
Gave me a reason to wash the car