grego0o

Hey people, Noticed the other weekend that my race jack is leaking fluid, im guessing this mean the seals on it are stuffed and it's not gonna be good for much longer... I bought this from the toolshed a few years back so it won't be under Warrenty so where can I go to get it rebuilt or serviced? Any help would be great, Greg

Pic below of current headers, 4-2-1's, will be interesting if there are any gains going to a 4-1 set up from these if I decide to for the tomei set.. Apart from the obvious big leaks in the current ones

From my readings I don't think that makes a difference in power out put.. This is true also, the quality of stainless will depend on the the length of time before they crack... Mine have done 50000ks so lasted a while before falling to bits so they did pretty well! Yea but some people are a lil fussy over how their car sounds lol I'd settle for being able to survive one event with the car pooing itself!

Gearbox will bolt up... Motor, loom, ecu will be required from Sti will be abit of work involved

I wonder if a v band between headers and up pipe would be effective? I've heard the flanges warp out on the stainless sets ( have seen funkys do it ) I wouldn't be using the up pipe from these kits either.. It would be my custom made one, but would want single scroll entry for less fuss when adapting my current up pipe.

From my readings I don't think that makes a difference in power out put.. This is true also, the quality of stainless will depend on the the length of time before they crack... Mine have done 50000ks so lasted a while before falling to bits so they did pretty well!

Single Scroll.

After some issues in the weekend I am tossing up whether or not to commit to either a set of Tomei Headers, Sinco Custom Set of Headers or going back to Stock Headers after my Stainless Set blew to pieces at Alexandra Road Hill Climb and left my car sounding like a tractor... I'm currently running a EJ25 with a GT3540 .63ar and around 19 Pounds of Boost and wondering whether the stock headers would flow enough to take this? Engine Mods are below for anyone wanting more information. V10 EJ25 rebuilt with: 100mm Oversized Wiseco Forged Pistons Eagle Forged Rods ARP Race Bearings ARP Headbolts Hyperflow Stage 1 Sump Torque Solutions Aftermarket Solid Engine Mounts Beatrush High Performance Solid Gearbox Mount Stock EJ20 SPEC C Heads Custom 6 Puk Clutch with a 2800lb Pressure Plate to handle the power Garret GT3582R (Gt3540) with a .63 AR with V Band for easy install and removal Custom Braided Oil Feed and Return Lines 50mm GFB V Band External Wastegate (plumbed back of course) Aftermarket 4-2-1 Stainless headers Custom Up pipe twisted to fit the GT3540 4" Stainless Intake off the Turbo to a 4" HKS Mushroom Filter Modified Trust Stainless 3" downpipe, Full Stainless 3" exhaust with small tip for stealth Link ECU Boost Controller Link G4 Plug in ECU Link Fuel Pressure Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor tuned in with the link to avoid anymore engine failures! (fingers crossed) Standard Tank Fuel Pump as Lift Pump 1.5 Litre Surge Tank Bosch 044 Fuel Pump Split Fuel Rail Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator 850cc Top Feed Injectors Flipped V7 Manifold (Painted Hulk Green) Custom Intercooler Piping to work in with the flipped manifold and new turbo (all black silicon joiners) 600x200 Tube and Fin Intercooler Aftermarket Alloy Radiator w/ Black Silicon Radiator Pipes Remote Oil Filter Kit with/ 12 Row Oil Cooler Custom Transmission cooler 2 Litre Catch Can Setup Does anyone have any information on the Flow of Stock Headers vs Aftermarket? Any Dyno Sheets of Before and After? Has anyone used a set of Tomei Headers or used Sinco Customs? Greg

lololol like

I think the point was more that Funky is pushing the limits of his set up at 290KW and running 25psi or whatever and yes the temps will be higher than a shitty VF23 pushing 18 pounds making 200kw... All factory Flexis in the up pipe have sleeved insides so a Flexi in the up pipe can be okay but only if it is sleeved... In saying all of the above I had my non sleeved Flexi removed from my up pipe yeserday due to Funkys Turbo going bye bye and mine was in mint condition most likely due to not running higher boost and having lower exhaust temps... I made 310Kw @ 18 PSI on my set up and yes I did just ewank myself

Most of the time the colour match paint cans are Matt finish so you might need to grab a gloss clear coat to finish it off! + the clear will help strengthen the paint against chips n stuff.,

Ooo, is that them stripped back fully or coated?

Stop wasting money n buy my buddyclubs

Lol owned

Don't cut anything unless your 100% sure... You should only need to move you radiator overflow bottle, the front bumper support may need trimming but this will be a wof issue so do so at your own risk... The bumper will be the most work, you'll need to cut a decent amount out if the intercooler is 600x300 sized. Google up some branded ones as it might show you a bit more

I'm sure I could find them easy, just whether you'd be willing to pay the moonbeams they'd be! I want the wrc wide body for v7 but don't wanna spend 5k on it lol

Oh yeah I remember that, I got mine from Boon in Wellington... Their Gold in the US apparently, people pay mega bucks for them!

looking good 8) question.... is that a carbon fibre bonnet or just painted black? Thanks man Carbon fibre bonet and boot, lip is painted tho.. Greg

Second hand would be the best way but they don't come up very often, or if your game you could call subaru for a new price? Won't be cheap tho!

Its the stock version 7 "version 1" Sti lip... So factory plastic painted in flat black

spamming up some pics ;D First photoshoot since being completed!

Repco or b n t will stock them, b n t will be cheaper tho if they give you trade price

V 7

Lol better then someones hack job I've seen ;D Better keep the wip on Paul, that's gonna be tight!

Got through all the wiring And fitted up the dash around the cage! Just gotta sort out the demister and battery in the morning and then in with the seats! (cheers for the help Liam!)