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falco

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Everything posted by falco

  1. That's what I thought... 'lay D 4 u'. Lady for you. Hmm. But yeah, it'll be something boring.
  2. Solution found, sort of. Problem is fixed, anyway. Looking carefully at the rear brakes, it looked like the ABS sensor wasn't close enough to the sensor rings. I adjusted things so that there was much less clearance, and the problem went away. I'm not sure why it would have been incorrect though, there was no obvious sign of damage, and everything seemed to be sitting as it should. Weird.
  3. Back again, with another weird technical issue. I'm working on a SG5 Forester that's been mistreated. I've replaced most of the braking system, and a bunch of failed wheel bearings (it's a long story). It's almost ready to be complied, but there's one annoying issue that I can't figure out. When braking while turning fairly hard right, ABS engages and does its thing. The pedal sinks, weird noises go on, etc. After I stop, the ABS pump keeps running for a second or so (can hear it and feel it through the pedal). I'm assuming it's all ABS anyway, it's hard to be certain. The ABS light never comes on, and ABS works perfectly apart from this one weird behaviour. Any ideas? I can't take it for compliance like this, guaranteed they'd discover that issue and fail it...
  4. Thread necrophilia... but I realised I never updated with a conclusion. The comments above were right, and I stand behind my whine about the confusing marks. I've been driving this car for over a year now, and it goes nicely. So for anyone doing a belt on these - watch it!
  5. Aaand... I give up. Bah. See For Sale section.
  6. Thanks Caleb, that's perfect - couldn't have hoped for better! Re the intake pipe, yes, that fell to bits when I took the old tuirbo off. I bought a replacement, which is intact but still feels pretty fragile. Will have to be careful with it.
  7. I've replaced the turbo on my SF5 Forester - no problem there. But, all the vacuum hoses (and a bunch of other rubber parts) went very brittle, and shattered everywhere as soon as I moved them. I've never seen anything quite like it. Does anyone have any diagrams covering the vacuum hoses that pass near the turbo? Or if nothing like that is available, can anyone take photos, or describe the hose routing accurately?
  8. Hi all - I'm looking at doing a few fairly minor mods to my BF GX wagon. I'd like to fit some good adjustable suspension, and figure out a bit of a power increase (not too much). My question is, I don't want to do both at the same time, but I might be forced to, as I wouldn't want to pay for the process twice. So, questions: - Is there any way around that? - Is Clint the LV certifier still around here? I discussed certs with him a few years ago, but I can't find his contact information any more.
  9. Nah, you know the history of the car. And, you can build it to your own spec. That's pretty much what I'm doing with my 1990 BF GX. Doing a rear brake swap is so simple, and practically undetectable. Having said that, I'm not sure there's really any significant benefit of a rear drum -> disk swap, unless you're worried about the looks.
  10. Hmm. Wouldn't cam angle sensor cause running problems? And I didn't think that the O2 sensors triggered the check engine warning? I've just had a similar thing with a knock sensor.
  11. It smokes a bit even at idle, but not much. Even light driving isn't too bad. But as soon as it boosts, it lays down a huge smoke screen, and keeps doing it for ages even if I take it easy. Hard to see the colour of the smoke, but it's dark. Haven't had a chance to pull it apart yet, been working on a Legacy. Will do it ASAP.
  12. Sorted - went with Captain Transporter. Willing to pay $110 extra to talk to someone who isn't an a$$hole.
  13. Well, looks like I spoke too soon. Because the car was at one point listed on TradeMe with a leaking water pump, they refuse to transport it. I've had problems like this with them before, they just aren't interested in customer service. So much for giving them another chance. I'll have to look for other options. No idea if Jeffs etc. would be more reasonable. Maybe they're all like this. Really don't want to have to drive all the way down there and back with the tow dolly!
  14. Would any of those bolt straight on, no further messing about with plumbing?
  15. Hmm, looking around, $100 doesn't seem realistic! Keen to know the best places for prices on these...
  16. That's what I figure. I'll check it's getting oil and the return is clear, and see if the shaft is flapping about first. Where's best to buy a replacement?
  17. So - this would definitely by a TD04 then? When I get time I'll pull the shields etc. off it and see if it's marked, but I would expect that it'd be pretty predictable. Also: - Oil feed must be OK, or it wouldn't be dumping oil into the the housings? - What can go wrong with the return? Just get blocked up by bad oil and crud? Or is there something complicated, e.g. pressure regulation valve that could be stuck? - Bearings could certainly be bad. Car has done 174000km, who knows how hard it was driven.
  18. Hi! I've got an SF5 Forester (1997), with a dead turbo. Least, that's my assumption. Everything works well - runs smoothly, boosts OK, etc. But, smokes all the time, with huge clouds when the turbo spools up. I'm assuming the oil seals have failed. So, the questions: - What turbo would this have? VF20, TD04? It's all completely original, as far as I can tell. - If it looks OK regarding no internal damage, OK shaft play etc, is it possible to replace the seals? - Does anyone have a turbo floating around they'd like to sell? Cheers, Mike
  19. Having done a bit of research, the consensus seems to be that it can be done as I describe above, but it could wear/damage the clutch pack. So I think I'll grovel around under the thing and unbolt the driveshaft before I move it. Comments welcome...
  20. Hi - question re towing. I need to transport a 1997 4wd automatic Forester about 10km. I have a towing dolly, so the front wheels would be locked to that, and the rear wheels would be rolling. The centre clutch pack should be in FWD mode if the transmission's in neutral. I could fit the FWD fuse to be sure, but I don't think it'd be necessary. So - maybe it's safe to do that without destroying the gearbox. Thoughts?
  21. Conclusion - CDG/HaulPlus is the cheapest choice, at a bit under $300 for the trip, compared to about $400 for Auto Logistics/Jeffs.
  22. Hi - I need to have an Impreza station wagon transported from Wanganui to Auckland. It starts and runs, so drive-on is OK. Any recommendations, for decent service and a good price?
  23. Yeah, I did check that - the heater worked fine, so I didn't worry greatly about it. My best guess at why the radiator wasn't getting as hot as I'd expect was just that water flow at idle might be pretty low, so the engine's pretty sensitive to incoming water temperature. There definitely are still some mysteries - why the ECU wasn't turning on the secondary fan, and why the radiator wasn't getting very hot when the engine temperature was reading high. When I had the overheating problem initially (this is before any work was done, including the radiator flush), the radiator was very very hot. The driver's side tank was so hot that even a quick touch was painful. But, that was after overheating while driving, a bit of a different situation. I think all I can do is exercise it a bit, and see what happens. If anyone thinks of anything else I can check, I'll give it a go.
  24. Well, I think it's all fixed. Turns out that the four relays are really badly labelled. I think: 1: Main fan 2: AC (secondary) fan high speed 3: Who knows? 4: Compressor And strangely, the main AC fan relay is under the dash, behind the ECU. Two faults were resolved. Firstly, the ECU decided to turn on the secondary fan when the engine got a bit warm. I'm pretty certain it wasn't doing this before, but no idea why - it just did it this time. Plus, the main fan connector was making bad contact. Gave it a clean up and plugged it back in, and the ECU now controls it fine, so temperature at idle is now stable. Hopefully a win - I'll get it a WOF and drive it around for a bit, see how it goes.
  25. Thanks for the suggestions! It does, but I'd like to get a detailed idea of the config, i.e. where fuses sit, how cabling is routed, if there's anything else in the line that could have failed, etc. I don't think I'll be able to find anything, so I'll just go with what I've got. Edit - The engine bay fuse lid layout details a lot of A/C-related relays, but nothing that's obviously related to the main fan. Maybe the descriptions are bad. There are 4 A/C relays, and a 'sub fan' fuse, that's all. The A/C fan does come on, but that doesn't seem to help with the engine cooling situation. Yep, have gone through that. Currently it reports no errors, but definitely no fan cycling going on. Should it definitely be doing that? An interesting sign, if so. Edit - Rechecked this just now. It goes into diagnostic mode fine, but there's no relay clicking I can hear, and neither of the fans cycle on and off. Good question! Never tried that. I'll give it a go. It's possible, but the radiator wasn't blocked originally, and the flush etc. didn't show much up either, apparently. [quote name='lachlan said: What do these have as far as an air bleed for the drivers side rad end tank . It will always create an air lock there . Dies it have a hose from there back to a top tank ? If so make sure this entire hose is hot . If top rad hose is hot a d the lil hose isnt it maybe vlocked or jus full of air . or some models have a tap there . Failing that jus undo the hose clamp and wiggle it back to near the end of the spogot on the rad and bend it downwards so it creates a tiny leak at the top . Make sure water comes out your leak . Yeah, I was pretty careful with bleeding, these don't have a separate top tank like the turbos etc. have. It's just a simple radiator and a couple of main hoses. But one thing - I did it on a nose-down slope. Not a very steep one, but maybe it was enough to screw it up and introduce a big air bubble someplace there shouldn't have been one. I'll turn the car around and redo it, with the nose facing up. That should remove any possibility of blockages.
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