nickch

Like what the rest have said.. it also boils down to your speakers and other parts of your system. Assuming a good set of speakers... and two extremes of quality of amps.. really shitty vs decent.. you will be able to tell the difference.. I guess the most important thing about amplifiers is the ability to: 1) Produce power up to its rating 2) Produce this power cleanly without distorting the signal 3) Produce this power cleanly and linearly across its rated frequency response.. This is the main 3 things I'd look for in an amp.. and not all these points are covered well enough in cheap amps..

yeah.. apparently its the joins in the fuel lines.. where rubber meets metal lines... when cold, the parts of the join will contract more than the other causing a leak.. naturally i'd be worried with leaking fuel in my engine bay... a fire extinguisher will come in handy.. if you expect more cold mornings in winter, I'd get it done soonish... me,... i just moved up to Auckland... ;D

due to the position of the filament in both normal Xenon bulbs and HID bulbs.. the dispersion of light produced by both bulbs have different patterns and sit at different positions along the length of the bulb. Hence, a reflector housing made to work with Xenon bulbs will not be able to produce the same pattern of light when a HID is fitted in it. (put simply).. You end up with HUGE amounts of scattering which will end up blinding other road users... no matter how much you angle it down..

its a common problem! It happens on mine.. but only on really really cold days.. A TSB has been released in the states to cover any repairs/replacement fuel lines caused by this problem.. Shame it doesn't cover us here. Not sure if it would take 6 hours, depending on how familiar the mech is. But it does involve taking the TMIC, manifold out, which can be rather tedious..

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11244.0.html

it might've been scooby that posted it IIRC..

Uni students!

from a cat-back full 3 inch system (consisting of 1x resonator and the Blitz Realize TT muffler)... changing the downpipe to a catless one made only a very small difference... loudness was the same.. but the note was slightly more aggressive.. i'd look at first, replacing mufflers with resonators down your exhaust route... and then getting a sensible muffler for the rumble..

angel fire is still around?!

IIRC, a it was from V7 onwards.. pre V6 and below that got brought into singapore were probably imported by owners there as JDM specs, and probably back before the regulations were in place.. don't quote me on that.. based on what i've seen on our shores..

agree that it is a good price for any old V8, and its not exactly false advertising as well. I doubt that a lot of people would understand what SG spec is. however, it is rather deceiving that he conveniently forgot to mention it.

singapore has stricter restrictions.. (eg noise, emissions.. etc) so the models that get imported have a lot of things changed to comply..

come on then? anyone? lol.. nosey me has been refreshing this topic all morning for an answer.. lol

well.. can't compare the two.. but the separation is like the Skyline and GTR?

yup.. i was going to suggest that.. having close proximity is not an issue as long as your signal cables have decent shielding..

Yes, with pioneer headunits, there is a fuse between the RCA inputs that shorts out very easily. If you're not careful (un)plugging RCAs.. http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/19933-advice-all-you-people-pioneer-hu-problem-alt-whine.html If you've dismissed that as a possible cause: 1. Run separate power feed for your headunit. (this is often under-rated... even if you wont notice any difference.. its good security). 2. Make sure power cables and RCA cables don't run parallel in close proximity.. if they have to cross.. make sure they are at right angles. 3. A bit overkill.. but I always made a point to do this: ground your headunit at the same point you ground your amps.. use decent gauge cable if you have to run it to the back of the car (i used 8ga).. just ensures ground levels at your headunit and amp are equal..

with the cigarette lighter plugs.. it might be a bit difficult. for example. with iPhone USB cables, you normally need a 5V source in order for it to charge.. so most cigarette lighter plugs will have some form of DC-DC convertor to bring 12V->5V.. I would try and pull it apart.. There would be some form of PCB. Find out where the 12V inputs are. Find a small plastic box to contain the PCB... solder wires where the 12V from the cig adapter goes.. and hardwire it to your ACC source behind the dash.. Sorry if its vague. but it's what i'd do in my mind..

thats not chinese, its most probably japanese... not all logographic writing is chinese.. i'd be worried if its chinese writing... you might have a fake subaru...

i no speak or read japan

you can have it open at high speeds.. just don't try opening it, when closed, at high speeds..

the hose + clamps that goes from the outlet of your turbo(s) to the intercooler is a bitch the attach and tighten back with the intercooler in the way... Got help from the guys at MM, to get mine back on.. Simon suggested CRC or engine oil inside the lip of the hose to ease fitting it back on..

4-pots! I was going to stick with my 277mm rotors + 2pots up fronts with mine.. but I acquired some 294mm rotors for a good price and was suggested to keep the rotors and upgrade to 4-pots.. best upgrade ever... normal progression would be to try on better brake pads and fluid first and see how you go.. but with the opportunity, i was told to spend the money once and spend it well..

ouch!!1 insurance?

reason why I went TMIC was to be a sleeper, less lag (and yes.. i know a lot of you guys who've had FMICs say that its not that much of a lag), simplicity.. i just need the diverter plate and scoop to fit..

bear in mind.. with great power comes great brakes..