NotAWhiteGTB

bahahahahahahahahaha, if your been serious you should also look at putting some WD40 on there to, it stops the brakes squealing when the pads get thin....

Thats staunch!!! I like it alot!! Those guys also make the horniest exhaust for the ez30R as well, stainless sex!!! http://www.k2k2.jp/image-bpe-EX0503-T6.htm

Bahahahaha, he gets close to getting owned when they are trying to do the tight turns around the pole on the runway

Dont mock fwd, give me an ef9 civic and a small budget, i would be more than happy at the track driving around people who twice as much power. Also, i would not say no to another Mini.... :'( In saying that, fwd only works when it is in a small car, and i mean in a really small car. Anything that starts packing on the pounds and is still driven through the front is going to be a menace of a thing to control properly, then you definitely need to have something that is awd or rwd This debate should be more along the lines of, in a small car, would you rather have fwd or rwd, and i would still answer fwd because you have less drive line, therefore less weight.

Cheers Qwerty, thats a good read. You always seem to find the best info first, have you ever thought of starting up your own search engine and naming it after you?.... hahaha

Subaru's have an extremely common problem with destroying big end bearings, which could have been helped by better design, but there are some mods you can do to give your bearings a better chance. I swear by an oil cooler, it keeps your oil temperature down, which means the temperature of your bearings will be kept down, which in turn they should have a longer life. Although, I'm unsure what a warranty company would say about an oil cooler as some consider it a performance mod (idiots), but i consider it a reliability mod.

Yea, we wont go there.... :'(

Yea, i got pulled over on the way home from Auckland. And the guy looked at my door and asked me who did it. I said with a straight face, "a policeofficer". Then the guy thought i was taking the piss and i ended up spending the next 15-20 mins on the side of road while my car was checked over with a fine toothed comb Hahaha. Here is a really good photo of it, i think it brings out the leggy's inner beauty...

Because im lazy i would get it acid bathed, plus i know it does the best job.

I have the exhaust/muffler off my RA that i got with it when i brought it. It bolts straight up to the factory exhaust system at the back flange. It should be a straight swap with no welding or cutting given its the same chassis, just different body shape. I need to sell it as its just sitting there doing nothing in my garage and i have no use for it. PM me if you interested

You know the equation loren posted is in imperial units. Not SI units. You have to put torque in at ft lbs for it to be right.

This makes for good reading and should point you in the right direction http://www.largiader.com/articles/torque.html/

The way i always think about power is it is the integral under a torque curve (although there is more to it than just that) If the 1st car made 1100Nm of torque in the middle of its rev range and then the torque dropped off, the power curve would have a spike in power and then plateau off as such Where as the 2nd car could have had a flat torque curve of 980Nm the whole way through its rev range, in which case its power curve would have a fairly constant gradient and not plateau off at the end Hopefully that makes some sense??? The numbers mean no more than bragging rights and wank factor at the end of the day. The information you really want is the torque and power curves off the dyno sheet.

Can someone please sticky this as i know its pretty handy The SPDA - Transmission Chart

Does that mean the GTB is going to tow the aRSe up here for a week of mayhem and disaster? PS, i have chosen not to be in competition with you again because you just went over board!!!

And RFRB means... Drum roll please Run Fast, Run Beautiful... ??? So sad!!

Heres the last photo i took of my leggy before it got stripped of everything including its dignity

Depends on which route you want to go down. RIPEVO wasn't overly powerful for the times it was doing, but relied heavily on getting good 60ft times by launching the balls out of it, which is why it had a tenancy to eat more axles than a fat chick eating cupcakes.

Holy Fark that thing looks hard!!!

im going to guess they would be about 20kgs each for my version 8 sti ones, they ard pretty darn heavy

They fit, i just tried v8 Sti seats in my version 1 on the weekend, it works Also, just if anyone wants to know, i have my Ver 8 STi seats for sale for who ever might want them?

Your going to be pushing it to find a decent v3 sti motor in good condition, especially if you take into account who normally owns a V3 sti these days and that they are 12 years old. And if you do find a good one i would still call it a gamble. What are your plans long term? Keep it or sell it. If you want to keep it you are almost better off rebuilding something decent yourself, that you know it is fine, i would rather spend 4k once and get something built by someone i trust than waste 1k on a motor that is highly iffy and end up back at square one again in a pretty short amount of time. Also, you dont have to get a v3 block, you can always go and buy any block you want, even if it is a different generation block (as long as it doesn't have avcs though) and you can put your manifold and wiring harness onto it and it will essentially be a v3 sti motor. If it is a different generation/phase motor you will have to get a adaptor plate made which is no biggy at all. That is my 2 cents anyway, hope it helps

If thats the case, can someone come and tax my leggy in about 1 week. It would make my life a shyt load simpler... haha

Check all the solenoids are working properly (you can do this by hooking up the black plugs under you dash by your steering column and turning your key onto the II position) Quite often stupid things block the solenoids from opening, i have accidentilly put the dip stick for the gearbox in with the kink around the wrong way and that has stopped one of the solenoids from opening a valve for the secondary stage of the turbo. The amount of times small stuff like this has happened to me is unreal

They may have something similar, but when it comes to mechanical parts the cheapest place to get genuine subaru parts in my experience is Palmfeild Motors, they always give a good deal. Heres a link to their webby