Eight_dollar

you havent physically checked the sec turbo - just looked at it and spun it if the tip of the wheels are gone then it wont produce boost untill its got masive amounts of exh gas spooling it if you have no vac/ boost leaks, correct ! , and no exh leaks pre turbos ! If you ran a long hose from "T" ofr the the primary wastegate into the cabin and then back to the actuactor You could CAREFULLY while in your massive VOD, cut that hose , which would shut the primary gate allowing max boost Get ready to lift off the gas if it spools up quick ! = Primary gate or control issue on the gate If it doesnt spool up then the system ISNT making boost = MUST be sec turbo fault as the primary is working well

still sounds like the sec turbo is fubar If diffrential press sensor faulty it will throw a code

HAve you cleaned out the primary boost solenoid? This controls boost during both stages of the turbos Do a proper ECU reset and advise

Early RS - as they had L & R stamped on them early WRX did too and had sq dish in the piston - edit- looked closer and they appear early wrx

He still helps out with our local cars

restrictor should be pre "T"

Put it all back to OEM Recheck restrictor pills Apart from that your sec turbo sounds FUBAR, But you have checked it ?!? Drop the down pipe and check the turbo

Wind the clock back - when did this fault start or first noticed? What had been done to the car prior?

hose 8 - vac opens for pre spool and then pressure shuts it like any BOV to hold it closed under boost. You tried blocking the boost side ot the BOV alrewady so wont be an issue here Thinking about it t can only be one of few items to be as bad as you say it is Primary gate being held open during twin stage? siezed or plumbing issue Sec turbo not making any huff or massive boost leak

yes if partially open ECV during primary boost the slow spool would result I was asking if it was opening - you can hold it open and feel the heat warm the sec turbo in the shop as a good test Also when in D check is the IC intake control valve operating? You can run in D check with car idling - so have good vac source to keep systems operaing while you check them Is pressure being applied to hose 8 while in extended VOD period?

100% sure the ECV rod and lever are actually moving the valve ? These arent uncommon to part company and not work internally system opens ECV ( but it doesnt internally operate even tho the rod moves ) at which time the IC inlet valve opens = no sec boost, all primay boost on the twin stage is lost thru IC and out sec turbo

if everything works fine - ie ICV , ECV etc while in "D" check Then you must have a mechanical issue

does the system hold vacuum? - a small hose runs off from the BBOD behind the airfilter box to the vac tank The entire TT control system runs on Vac Does the system operate properly when put into "D" check mode

how have you checked your sec turbo?

oh well you dont have a problem then ! Checked for silly things - like a rag in the inducer of the sec turbo or intake tube or the bonnet sound deadening cloth layer sucked into air box?

so primary boost ok - ? then look at the secondary change over items IC intake control EXH "flapper" ECV If all this ok - then sounds like Sec turbo isnt huffing (

ecu only use\'s coolant temp and crank/cam sensors to start the engine - all others are ignored sounds like a compression issue or water/coolant ingress

driving it on primary turbo for 5min ( dont go past 3500 rpm or try to get on sec boost) - and there should be NO heat in the sec turbo ANY heat indicates ECV isnt shut (the rod will move as it should by the actuator, but the the valve (inside the exhaust) wont be seated Also check primary waste gate plumbing and make sure the primary gate isnt sticky Faulty or incorrectly plumbed Primary BOV can also cause low/no boost issues

But front indicators and side indicators were fine due to being non relflective to start with or something silly like that

Yea repco stock it, depends how many coats or how finger happy you get to make it as dark as you want, I did get pulled over with nightshade on and asked to remove it because it gets rid of the reflective strip on the lights

I believe you can get bolt on spacers and then certify them, someone may correct me there, altho prob easier and cheaper/safer getting new wheels and save all the hassle

dealer or online store

special tool needed to hold gear and then undo the 10mm in-hex bolt If you dont have the tool then you wont get the gears off easily at all

Carr and Haslam or Auto Movements

whole engine is fooked? really