hijacka

Both the vf22 and 23 are ball bearing turbos and bearing noise is normal on idle or low rpm and when switching it off for 5-10 seconds. Its only a problem if its screaming its tits off on boost. Some will be worse than others, I enjoy listening to the sound of them when there spinning down, they sound farkn Orsum! ;D

I had a similar problem aswell, trader buys front kit for $350 and lives in invercargill and was supposed to be sorting frieght out, after afew months no feedback was placed and i had no buyer contact details as i cleared my emails. 9months later i relist it and then the old buyer made contact and picked up 1week later lol.

Isn't it also impounded for 28days with every pinky now? If that is the case then what are you using the 22 on? and it wasn't that 380 dollar one on tardeme was it?

Haha!! My thoughts exactly, thats diffenatly a padded bra thou, But whos looking? and that other chick looks like shes gagging on some liquid ice or some s*** haha Oh yeah i spun me vf22 around today. :-*

True lol!! Also picked up that it says for the block 14mm Double Hex = 47 N.m (4.8 kgf-m, 34.7 ft-lb) when the boltheads are 12mm haha. Hope the rest of the torque setting are true cause ive just put the block together with those settings lol feels ok thou

Rebuilding my ej and found this on another sub site so thought i would share it with the class. Con Rod Big End Caps = 44.6 N.m (4.55kgf-m, 33 ft-lb) Block Bolts: 12mm Head = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) 14mm Double Hex = 47 N.m (4.8 kgf-m, 34.7 ft-lb) Sump Baffle Plate = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb) Oil Pick Up Pipe = 10 N.m (1 kgf-m, 7 ft-lb) Sump Pan = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb) Cylinder Head Bolts: The text refers to bolts A,B,C etc, they are as follows: A = Top Middle B = Bottom Middle C = Top Left D = Bottom Right E = Bottom Left F = Top Right When removing Cyl head bolts, they should be undone in the following order. F E D C B A Refitting Cyl Heads: (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N•m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N•m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts (A) and (B) to 34 N•m (3.5 kgfm, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten bolts ©, (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N•m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [in the two previous steps] do not exceed 180°. Camshaft Caps M8 Bolts = 20 N.m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft-lb) M6 Bolts = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Cam Cover = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft) Camshaft Timing Wheels = 98 N.m (10 kgf-m, 72.4 ft-lb) Timing Belt Idlers = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb) Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket 25 N.m ( kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) Timing Belt Tensioner = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb) Timing Belt Covers = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb) Crankshaft Pulley = 177.m (18kgf-m, 130 ft-lb Oil Cooler Modine = 55 N.m (5.5 kgf-m, 40 ft-lb) Water Pump = 12 N.m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft-lb) – Must be done diagonally and re-checked Oil Pump = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb) Inlet Manifold = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb) Exhaust Manifolds = 35 M.m (3.6 kgf-m, 26 ft-lb) Flywheel = 72 N.m (7.3 kgf-m, 52.8 lb-ft)

Bad words?? More details please haha

Congrats!!!

I never ripped any one off Insert tui here>>>(tui slot) Its dishonest people like you that make trading a misery for others and i pitty the people that have ever had the misfortune of dealing with your type, I take comfort in knowing that people like you are actually quite depressed in real life. :-* cheers

Haha rub it in why don't you lol.

No its not! It is fairly straight cut.. Liquid ice ripped of someone big time on here and you only have to pop into the chiller to figure it out for yourself..also check the feedback for ashburton_guy on trademe to see a negative trading pattern which reflects the attitude of a rippoff and con artist..clearly he has no life still posting on here while knowing everyone now sees his true colours.

Sounds like its blowing it threw the blowby Stira rather than sucking it as you say its only on boost which generally means wornout compression rings. Might be time to dust off the compression tester and prepare yourself for the moment of truth.

Ok thanks..so would you think it could make more power than a standard vf22?

Hi everyone, I have at my disposal some subaru turbo junk and have decided to make some use of it. I have a vf38 that needs a rebuild and vf22 parts.. I am in the the process of purchasing a rebuild kit for the vf38 twinscroll but it has a damaged compressor wheel so have opted to use a vf22 compressor wheel..Have sent the vf22 compressor wheel for sleeving so it can accept the vf38 shaft and the vf38 backing plate is getting machined to suit the vf22 comp wheel, the vf22 compressor housing already fits the vf38 backing plate so no worries there. Basically it will end up being a vf22 twinscroll ' Would anyone have any idea as to how much power it could possibly make 'in theory''? Your thoughts please. Thanks

You can change over the front diff of your new box using the 4.1 pinion and crown wheel from your old box..give me a pm if your wanting someone to do this for you and we can work something out.

First thing you do is inspect the magnetic drain plug for possible damage(ie teeth etc) normal buildup from bearing wear is noemal thou. check to see if the box has been split open before(ie new sealant) as it could possible have another gearset from another box and could be weaker than original spec. Double cone syncros allow smoother shifting especiallly when down shifting, but the double cone syncros also have a weaker hub and have seen the double cone syncro hubs crack in half before. Doubt you will notice the difference between the 2. Makesure that you can select all the gears and spin the input shaft and check for wear, the earlier boxes can be subject to bent alloy selector forks...(hence the double syncro upgrade in the later boxes to combat this problem)and the steel selector fork used in certain early RA boxes. And check the old oil... Golden flakes mean worn syncros and metal flake means worn bearings but remember that there will be some wear and tear obviously.

I use valvoline 75w-90 gearoil for mt transmissions from super sheep auto cause its the cheapest i've found (cost 45 slides for 4litre) Has the same api rating as above (GL5) And vavoline DX3 for autos as it comes in a 5litre pack as appossed to 4litre and is the same price as castrol 4litres.cheers 8)

Your the man ryan thanks heaps!!! i thought it was black to red aswell, looking at that pm of the v1/v2 tps sensor diagram i sent you but there was a little voice that said warning do not try it lol..but im going to now once i get some rails this week..cheers bro!! Will post up results soon ;D

Stock WRX TD04 Mitsubishi TD04L-13T (390cfm at 14.7psi, 200-275whp, Bolt-On) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the Subaru Impreza WRX. It can be found on all the current model years from 2002-2007. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2500-3000rpms. IHI VF Series The numbering on both the VF turbos are for reference purposes and not necessarily indicative of its 'performance'. On GC8/GF8 WRX STi, the VF turbos have gone 'smaller' from VF22 to 23, 24, 28, 29 while the release of the New Age STi GDB saw the introduction of a new breed of VF turbos with a bigger compressor wheel namely, VF30, VF34, VF35 for example. The previous VF turbos (VF22,23,24,28,29) have been ball bearing cored while the later ones (VF30, VF35) are Divided Thrust Bearing type core, with the VF34 being a Ball Bearing. IHI VF22 (455cfm at 18.0psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) The VF22 has the largest potential for peak horsepower. In other words, in the IHI model range, the VF 22 supports the highest boost levels. With its significantly increased turbine housing, the VF22 turbo is capable of producing upwards of 310 whp* on an EJ20. The downside of this turbo is the older center cartridge design and larger compressor housing, which makes for slower spool up but more top-end than the other VF series turbos. This turbo is the best choice for those who are looking for loads of top end power. The top end power however, does not come without a cost. The VF22 spools significantly slower than the rest of the IHI models due to the larger P20 exhaust housing and is much less suited for daily driving than some of the other models. Although the largest VF series turbo, the VF22 is not quite optimal for stroked engines or those who wish to run more than 20PSI of boost. The VF22's compressor is rated at 35 lbs/minute. The VF22 was designed with the EJ20 in mind but because it has the biggest turbine in the IHI family it can be use on the EJ25 with a slight increase in performance. The VF22 is good for around a realistic 300 to 315 WHP on a 2.0L. The IHI VF-22 turbo is the largest of the VF-series turbos. IHI VF34 (440cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) The VF34 is nearly identical to the VF30, with the same exhaust housing and compressor. However the VF34 goes back to the ball bearing design, and in doing so achieves full boost approximately 500RPM sooner than the comparable VF30. The VF34 is the most recent IHI design and as such costs slightly more than its counterpart. Top end performance and maximum output are identical to the 30. The VF34's compressor is rated at 35 lbs/minute but the turbo suffers from the same turbine restrictions found with the VF30. The VF34 was designed with the EJ20 in mind and will not have the same performance on an EJ25. The VF34 is good for around a realistic 290 to 305 WHP on a 2.0L. IHI VF30 (435cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) The VF30 delivers a very wide increase in torque over the standard TD-series turbos. It is important to note that the VF30 is not a roller bearing turbo. The VF30 is commonly considered the best bang for the buck turbo in the IHI VF series line. A relatively new model the VF30 features the same exhaust housing as the VF24, P18, but a larger compressor side similar to the VF22. The combination of these two parts results in increased output potential without the lag associated with the VF22. Although it doesn't offer the top end supremacy of the VF22, the VF30 is a great compromise between these unit and the quicker spooling models. The VF30's compressor wheel is rated at 35 lbs/minute, because the P18 turbine is used to help spool up the VF30's turbine creates a lot of back pressure which hurt top-end performance. The VF30 was designed with the EJ20 in mind and will not have the same performance on an EJ25. The VF30 is good for around a realistic 290 to 305 WHP on a 2.0L. The VF30 is not ball-bearing. It uses much more advanced aerodynamics than the VF22/23/24. It should spool much faster than the VF22/23/24, but flow less than the VF22, closer to a VF23. IHI VF39 (435cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) The VF39 is a single scroll turbo used on USDM STI and latest 2.5L STIs released internationally. Smaller in output capacity than VF30, VF34 and VF22, the VF39's compressor is rated at the same 35 lbs/minute but the very small P18 turbine really chokes the 2.5L engine. In stock form the EJ25 with the VF39 has very little lag and that was the goal Subaru was looking for with the base package. The VF39 is good for around a realistic 285 to 300 WHP installed on a 2.0L. I would not recommend a VF series turbo to anyone looking to upgrade their STI but if you plan on keeping the VF39 you can expect to make between 300 to 330 WHP. If you are considering the VF39, we highly suggest checking out the VF43 as it is a better setup in the same class. IHI VF43 (435cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) The IHI VF43 comes stock on the 2007 STi. It has almost identical features of the VF39 with a thrust bearing and a P18 exhaust housing, but the wastegate opening is larger to relieve boost creep issues. . It can be found on both base STI's and STI Limited's. The VF43 utilizes a thrust bearing design and the P18 exhaust housing. The difference between the VF43 and the VF39 used previously on STI's is the size of the wastegate. The VF43 has a larger wastegate designed to reduce boost creep issues. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 3000-3500rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles that utilize this turbo aftermarket. IHI VF36 (430cfm, 250-325whp, Modification Required) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V8-V9 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec-C Type RA. The VF36 is a twin-scroll turbocharger that utilizes a ball bearing design, a P25 exhaust housing, and Titanium (possibly TiAl?) compressor wheel for improved spool. It is essentially a fast spooling VF34. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. IHI VF37 (430cfm, 250-325whp, Modification Required) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V8-V9 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. The VF37 is a twin-scroll turbocharger that utilizes a thrust bearing design and a P25 exhaust housing. It is essentially a fast spooling VF30. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. IHI VF35 (425cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM Subaru Impreza WRX. The VF35 is similar to the VF34. It utilizes the same compressor housing and the same compressor inducer size. The differences are in the divided thrust-bearing design and the P15 exhaust housing. This allows the VF35 to spool slightly quicker than the VF34 at the cost of less top-end performance. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. IHI VF23 (425cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi 22b. The VF23 is a ball bearing turbocharger that utilizes the P20 exhaust housing like the VF22. This housing is mated with the smaller compressor housing of the VF24 for fast response and excellent low and mid-range performance. It does not have the same top end power of the VF22, but spools up slightly quicker. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. IHI VF24 (410cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V4 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. This turbo shares its compressor housing with the VF23, however, this housing is mated with a smaller (P18) exhaust side. The smaller characteristics of this turbo allow it to provide ample bottom end power and quick spool. This turbo is very popular for Impreza's with automatic transmissions and Group-N rally cars. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. IHI VF29 (410cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On) This is the standard equipment turbocharger on the JDM V6 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. The VF29 is nearly identical to the VF24, with the same compressor and exhaust housings. However, the compressor wheel in the VF29 has been changed slightly. The changes made to the compressor wheel in this model are generally viewed as improvements, and as such, this unit is typically chosen over the VF24. Has a different location for the pressure hose on the wastegate actuator. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2900-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles. 16G TD05H + 18G & 20G There are several versions of the 16G TD05H. The three that you are most likely to find are the Standard 16G, Big 16G and Super 16G. The exact specifications are going to vary on the turbo builder (e.g. GTPumps, Deadbolt, Turbochargers.com, Forced Performance, Blouch etc.) The Standard 16G TD05H ~(520cfm, 33.5 lb/min, 275-330whp, Bolt-On) The Standard 16G's compressor is rated at 33.5 lbs/minute which is slightly smaller that the VF22 but the Standard 16G comes with 7cm turbine housing which flows better than the VF22's P20. The better flow allows the Standard 16G to produce number close to the VF22. The 16G will produce between 285 and 300 WHP on a 2.0L. The Big 16G TD05H (GTPumps GTPS01) ~(525cfm, 34 lb/min, 275-340whp, Bolt-On) The Big 16G's compressor is rated at 34 lbs/minute which is only slightly better than the Standard 16G. The difference is how much faster the flow starts to come on with the Big 16G over the Standard 16G. The ability to move more air sooner makes the Big 16G more responsive during on-boost, off-boost, on-boost transitions. The Standard 16G will spool to full boost quicker but the Big 16G has better recovery once you drop below full boost. The Big 16G will produce between 295 and 315 WHP on a 2.0L. The Super 16G TD05H ~(585cfm, 37 lb/min, 275-370whp, Bolt-On) The Super 16G is just what it says, super. It's compressor is rated at 37 lbs/minute and it is still only a 16G. This is the super flyweight contender on the Mitsubishi line. Mitsubishi has made several special versions of this turbo for motorsports applications. It's will spool up slower than any of the other 16G's BUT once the boost hits all is forgiven. The Super 16G will produce between 310 and 325 WHP on a 2.0L. 18G TD05H ~ (590cfm, 39 lb/min, 275-390whp, Bolt-On) The 18G is a very versitile turbo. It is rated at 39 lbs/minute and has very good spool up. The key to this turbo is the balance between size and response. The 18G TD05H is well suited to a 2.0L engine and has the capacity to max out all of the non-built EJ20's. Stock STI EJ25's love the 18G and I feel that this is the turbo the car should have come with from the factory. On a 2.5L the spool up is amazing! The 18G TD05H will produce between 315 and 330 WHP on a 2.0L. On a 2.5L the 18G TD05H will make between 325 and 350 WHP. 18G TD06H ~ (40 lb/min, 325-400whp, Bolt-On) The 18G TD06H has the same compressor as the 18G TD05H but a larger turbine wheel. The larger wheel adds some lag but helps hold boost better in the upper part of the RPM range. On a 2.0L the 18G TD06H will be laggy but will have a pretty insane rush up top. I woulds expect to see 320 to 340 WHP on a 2.0L. On a 2.5L the bigger turbine is a blessing. The 2.5L gets maximum benefit from the TDo6H wheel and should be good for between 335 to 360 WHP. 20G TD05H (GTPumps GTPS02) ~(640cfm, 44.5 lb/min, 325-440whp, Bolt-On) Here is where is starts to get really good. The 20G TD05H is probably the best all around turbo that you will come across for a street car. On a 2.0L this sucker is going to be laggy but once that 44.5 lbs/minute compressor gets going you better be hanging on. 335 to 350 WHP shouldn't be out of the question for this turbo on a 2.0L. The 20G TD05H on a 2.5L is the start of the march to the 400 WHP barrie. On an STI 2.5L the 20G TD05H is good for 345 to 375 WHP. 20G TD06H ~(44 lb/min, 325-440whp, Bolt-On) The same as with the 18G the 20G family is available with an optional TD06H turbine wheel. This is the wheel that really pushes the performance of the 20G to the next level. On a 2.0L I am almost positive that this turbo would be really laggy. The turbine is just not well suited to the EJ20. expect to make 340 to 370 WHP on a 2.0L but the power will come on really late. I would only put this turbo on a 2.0L is you intent to drag race it. Now the STI 2.5L is a different story. The 20G TD06H is one of my favorite turbos for this car. The added .5L really helps to offset the bigger turbine and takes full advantage of it. The 20G TD06H should be good for 360 to 390 WHP on a 2.5L. 20G TD06H(SL2) (GTPumps GTPS03) ~(44 lb/min, 325-440whp, Bolt-On) The TD06SL2 is a completely different beast to the regular TD06. It was designed by Mitsubishi for Trust and has a very light wheel so spools up very quickly. This is the second generation one which has clipped wheels and a few other tricky bits. Expect to get similar power levels as with using a normal 20G-TD06 but expect to make the power a little easier and with less lag.

After owning acouple td05h and endless searching the web for specs i found that the tdo5h that ended with the part number 90 are standard td05 and the ones that end with the part number 91 or 92 are big tdo5..heres a chart from another forum that might be of use, but its getting old now.. Just a quick side note: i couldnt go back to a tdo5h after a vf22. The oil banjo bolt and line from a vf8/vf10 fit the tdo5 turbo the waterpipe banjos don't but if you have the water pipe banjo bolts for the tdo5h already then you can mod a vf8 or similar water pipes to fit by seperating them and using a die grinder to open them up afraction on both sides so the tdo05 banjo bolts fit...

cheers gazza, so looking at the colours of my tps plug which pin is what colour?cheers

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/89/150399789_full.jpg heres the new 3pin tps and plug..note that the plug maynot be original colours as the plug was sourced seperate from a wrecker http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/19/150399819_full.jpg And heres the 4pin tps

cheers bro..wirings not really my 4tay ae and don't wana guess it..just pm gazzy2000,cuddas says that he might no which goes where 8)

http://www.bcdirect.co.nz/viewsubcategory.aspx?id=2 Anything in here??give me a pm if there is.. ps they only deal with retailers

Hi caged, im running a possumlink ecu, its in a bf wagon and have recently switched from a tdo5h to a vf22 and i have bought i v4 intake with throttle body etc. Didnt wana twist it because its running a nice divorce downpipe etc, hoping that someone here would be able to tell me which coloured wires go where as i dont have a multi meter to confirm which is 5v/ground/ signal etc.