hijacka

Also the wires can snap on the end of the switch and the switch can wear out to.

Applicable legislation • Land Transport Rule: Vehicle Lighting 2004 Permitted equipment 1. One or two reversing lamps fitted at the rear of the vehicle. 2. A retrofitted pair of reversing lamps must be symmetrically mounted as far towards each side of the vehicle as practicable. Condition 3. A reversing lamp must be in good condition. Performance 4. A reversing lamp must operate in a way that is appropriate for the lamp and the vehicle. 5. A reversing lamp, when operated, must emit a diffuse light or a dipped beam of light that is substantially white (Note 3). 6. A reversing lamp must emit a steady light. 7. A reversing lamp may operate only when the reverse gear is engaged or the headlamps are turned off. 8. Where a reversing lamp comprises an array of light sources (eg LEDs), at least 75% of these must operate. Modifications 9. A reversing lamp that is affected by a modification: a) must meet equipment, condition and performance requirements, and B) does not require LVV specialist certification. Note 2 A reversing lamp that does not comply with condition and performance requirements must be made to comply **or be disabled so that it does not emit a light.**

If its a sas job then you would have had to pay extra$$ to have the reverse light plug connected and the n safety switch. FWIW you don't need reverse lights for wof. if you have 1 reverse that works and 0ne that doesn't you will fail if you have none that work it will pass;)

Good idea! Also the front guards can hide small spanners etc between the inner and outer guard near the bonnet hinges.

If you know your car then yes you will notice the difference.

Common in v5-v6 heads as well, your old heads had cracks in them to clint, not all cyl just 2 but i'm using them without issue(haven't comp tested but runs fine), i would probably get them checked by a head specialist if the crack had effected the valve seat though wouldn't want it to fall out and i would say compression would be effected in that case.

What did that cost? didn't know people where still buying these old turbos?

Nah lol, Unscrew the Phillips head screw in the front of the lens and remove the indicator light, twist the bulb holder in the back of the bumper indicator to remove

You have to take the engine out first.

Yeah quite possibly, pull it out and test it

Good to know Ross as i'll be in the market for one soon and that fury looks the part!

Well i really look forward to seeing some first hand comparisons in the future, seems more and more people are running them.

Heres some pictures Hx40(polished housing)an hx35 OEM HX40 wheel and housing next to upgraded one You can tig on to holset housings;)

I've always wondered about the holset turbine housing if it minuses the divided part of the housing before working out ar? If not then a 16cm housing could actually be more around .82 rather than the 1.13

Holset compressor maps are hard to find but heres some info/maps http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=165876

all this talk about the hotside but what about the cold? You have to specify which compressor wheel your running aswell! holset has lots of different sizes. i up graded my hx40 to 62mm inducer and 86mm exducer and the wheel is much taller than factory holset which it use to have 54/82.

Mod approval to post? Was just say here is where you can get holset 12 cm housing and genuine parts https://www.dencodiesel.com/ But said its awaiting mod approval?

Thanks for pics Ross good to know can run one! Here is who can supply genuine holset rebuild kits, turbos and 12cm holset hx35 vband out housing! I priced a new one up awhile ago was bout 350ish from memory. https://www.dencodiesel.com/

Just going by the look of the dummy engine it doesn't look like it will clear? Perhaps theres some special sort of piping work? or maybe i was looking at a older large style cooler then?

I do understand your push for T.S though!

Need to remove factory oil cooler don't ya? might just be the one i have hits the t.s headers so i figured i would use the shorter filter bolt the comes in autos that don't have oil coolers.. The t.s headers hit the water pipe from the waterpump so you would either cut and block that pipe(the one that runs to the oil cooler) or just run a 2 pipe water pump. The housing is costing me $50 so i don't mind giving it a go for that money, like i said im looking for huge hp, fast but not huge.

Then i'll have to source t.s sump, pickup, windage tray, headers, uppipe mod the water pump, Remove the oil cooler etc, i have t.s setup going on the ra with hx40 though but this one i'm planning to keep more simple for the wrecked gf8 going to make a fun daily daily out of it,

Bugger! never mined mate i have one coming friday. im hearing you regarding t.s but im not looking for that much bother with this one just simple that works to a degree

What boost are you running boon? what size comp wheel is it? i think hx35 comes 54mm-56mm inducer, 7-8blade? If its choking do you think a clippage will help it?

I have a offer on a gt35r dsr .63 housing dirt cheap so cheap in fact im just going to buy it and try it lol.