funkytown

should be sweet then - think im getting threads muddled

sti internals are stronger yer.. but you have a nz new WRX from what i read (cud be wrong)... and these do have a mismatch of different bits and bobs. 18psi shud run ok if you give it good maintenance. more power = less reliable though, cant get away from it lol

running 18psi on stock internals though is up to the user.. there are different schools of thought

Yer thats interesting - I have got some SP500 pads from the same place i got my Znollei rotors and have found them great.. But it comes down to trying something and having that experience to compare it to. I think i will be after the TS2000's next time to compare against what i already had.. Other wise how do you know how good good is? You need something to make it relative.

there are to many opinions for everyone to agree though ;D its good for the popcorn in any regard

I think the remapping is for the version 8 and later ECU's, not the GC and GF's (95-01) The boost tap essentially masks the amount of air that the ecu sees, so no you are not bound by the ecu. And it is safe to do so also. There is some good reading about on it. I also have a brand new boost controller gng for cheap if your interested.

yup agreed - mine came with the ecu. Wasnt my choice. Did have some odd features, and ran like ballz on anything 95 or lower. - what would the nz new one be tuned for though? not sure if Livily knows? but i sure dont either.

yet enough time to dribble on here.. wtf has never hearing of ichi before got to do with beleiving whethers hes built race engine before..? thats the most rediculous comment ever. Maybe its you thats no body as you havent heard of him? are you trying to inflate your own ego or...? Why not just say who you really are, we are so "eager" to really know *cough*, a random user name, no email listed, or details seems to me youd rather hide behind that screen. Stroke yourself somewhere else. [quote name='stickyboy said: lastly i have 660ccs in my sub um no one cares simply. your first post implied 440s' - in what ever car it doesnt matter, you stated 440's running 240kw which frankly i havent seen or anyone i know have seen. As i did say, happy for you to front the evidence though and be "wow"ed. Can i ask what duty cycle said car does actually run (on the 440's) to acheive the claimed 243kw atw

yer Matt (loud_as) had a 99 (version 5) nz new had had a real mismatch of parts similar to what was quoted above. including yellows and 260km speedo... it should also have an orange afm too It surely should run 1 bar fine.. i mean thats 14.7 psi or what you said is stock, so why run it at 0.8 bar? (unless im missing something here) A 22 is rated to about 18psi (depending on personal opinion) all day. A stock motor wont like that boost over its entire lifetime however. EDIT to answer your question 15.23 or 1.1 bar should be ok. Consider doing the split rail mod though. The more boost you run the less life your block will have. take into account that your ecu will probably have a boost cut somewhere about 1.1 bar. Also any boost level will creep at night (in the cold). My V3 would boost cut at 1.2 bar, but did have a Zerosports chipped stock ecu.

thanks man.. thats probably going to be plan of attack

so 22 front and 22 adjustable rear will make some difference? Il like to conquer some of that understeer (mainly for the track).. and hoping i can still get that with 22 front and rear, however seeing guys just with 22 rear bars i dont want it just letting go all the time. I dont have dccd either so hard to get the rear to push

yer i wondered that.. I think i am going to get a 22mm rear adjustable whiteline bar.. and a standard 22mm front.. but waiting to hear on prices. Qwerty - what do you mean front ARB's? (front adjustable rrrrr..(ummm) bar)? i assume.. and yes i understand that my car run a 20mm front already and a 19 rear

guys - im happy and interested to hear what everyones thoughts are, not it to get personal about you to.. So can we keep it on subject please. I think based on the material thus far, a 22mm rear is the way to go.. and something like a 20 or 21 front. 24 rear would be a little extreme (with matching 22m front)..

Shit Rick - my injectors will mean I'm good for 260-70atw then... :D :D sticky sticky.. front the exact engine mods / dyno sheets / and car or it seriously never happened. anyone can prattle on in front of a computer screen

I'd rather not buy both bars if i can help it.. and have access to the 21mm.. but thought the 22 would prove (and unfoundedly) that it would makes things quite a bit stiffer... hence my q

Much of a difference? I was looking for a 22mm but have come across a set with 22mm front and a 21mm adjustable rear... at a good price. Is it still worth picking up and make much difference over stock?

Post up what codes your getting, Also i wonder what ecu your running? Im guessing your car used to be standard WRX, but has some sti bits in it. What colour is the sticker on the AFM, and what colour injectors do you have? an STi shud have yellow (440cc) injectors, Orange AFM, and a VF23 or 22 for that year. and the STI ecu of course. Can you look in the passnger foot well and post up what the numbers on the ecu are as well. Normal wrx has grey injectors and Green afm and a TD-04. Might be just code related, but if you answer the other q's can check you have all the right running gear in your car. i bet 95 fuel aint helping - stick with 98. Look here for how to check codes - http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=59.0

you can but involves pressing a remote button

I'm sure we'd all like to see the dyno results and the car(s) in question. I do note that its what SM "says" you will get, rather than "it does get" xx kw. Its is just totally impossible to get 440's to flow enough to give 230+ kw atw, simple as that. Saying that, post up your results when your ready an we'll see. It just isnt received that well on here when people are claiming huge numbers on unlikely setups. Many people around here have owned/tuned/built/broken/modified more subbies than have fingers and toes and havent see results like that.

slightly off topic but how do you get round that when its hooked into your alarm - i.e AVS 5S has it inbuilt?

have a read through here http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=1755.0

nah my vf23 had two lots of fins like that google image search reveals twin bladed compressors wheels a plenty..

This is one with a full piggy back board on it.. Was a zero sports.

No thats the point in wrapping them individually, and then doing the two together.. Yes you have to unwrap the outer layer, but then the two peices will unbolt easy as, and still be wrapped by themselves.

Wrapped and unwrapped if your interested, Up pipe wrapped seperately from headers, then both wrapped together and the whole thing again lockwired.