funkytown

firstly you cant get an STI B4... from 1999 anyway (to cover my arse) in case you can (09 has an sti i think).. your B4 should just be an RSK.. RFRB... RFRB is just a visual styling im pretty sure.. two ways to lower your car.. #1 low or super low springs - not requiring a cert, more for looks than performance #2 get adjustables, requires a cert and for performance mags you will be looking for a set of 18*7.5 or 18*8 rims.. that will take 215/40/18 rubber (or similar dimensions) Depending on the offset its likely you will have to roll the rears (this is dependant on whether you have lowered your car(obviously))... you need 5*100 stud pattern as well... fyi offset is not totally accurate measurement, just go and try some rims, some go +40, some more some less... some +40 will fit, some wont etc.. i think you get the point Twin turbos primary should be be 2200ish to 4400ish and 4500 to redline for the secondary. Decreasing the VOD you can get a professional to alter the wastegate on the primary or go for a sequentail controller (not boost controller) and that all most eliminates it all together.. thinking aboug $400+, brand name eludes me. the manual way is more of an art and doesnt give as good a result as the controller. (i had manual way on my old gtb and worked just fine). Hope this helps

types of cars people.. .some are GTs' some GTB or B4, wrx and sti are all different types of hungry..

on my poked engine was getting 400 to the nail on 40L mixed driving. Round town closer to 300k = 40l V3 STI wagon - modified, running BP98

22 can be rebuilt.. so can a 23 or other ball bearing VF series turbo.. Mines being rebuilt right now. and people have varying comments on a td05 vs 22, both are similar in terms of performance, the td05 prob less responsive, but capable of similar power, both not liking to much more than 20psi for extended periods. difference is very opinion based - i.e each to their own (which is fair enough) I've seen great results on both.

oh rly.. what else do you think you know, and yup i sure do, come round and grab em at any stage

$50 for a block, i would suggest must less for a manifold.... Ask rick

lol disqualfied for knowing where it came from..

OMG!! CAR CRIME

yes very observant, what version?

Right a sample of the fine soda blasting work.. They did a wicked job on my short block, which is currently ungoing its rebuild.... Can be done here in Wellington for $50 a pop plus shipping

how much denser..? and does this translate across to NZ?

I think your right there stoffa... Other wise whats the point in having it.. And also the big warning in my MBC box saying to get it the right way round

lol sweet.. i read rear in your thread title... it was just really so you beelived i knew what i was talking about haha

Yup steves car has version 8/9 interior in his V2. Its a little tight over the rear gaurds.. where it meets the door from memory but other than that goes in lovely.. The from seats sit up quite a bit higher than standard.

yer fine but what about the people already that give blood sweat and tears for the club, ie Odie 2+ years as pres.

conference call tomorrow 1930, Pm joker for details

mmm my initial thoughts were tech mods are for technical area's. Otherwise we are just introducing a new set of global mods, that have technical know how

Think you have already made your opinion known.. I would say start, leave for 10-20seconds for oil to spread then drive conservitivly unles it comes up to temperature then "fang it" Left to warm up from idle (imo) leaves all the parts to cold for way to long.. doing more harm than good, nothing comes up to temp for a long time

there is up in J-ville. 98 still available down in the central city, and Melling i think. Stink about upper hutt though

I bet they arent .. Ask any engine builder or Steve, oil does matter when they are eating compressor wheels. Yup either can control the boost for you, I use my G3 for just that purpose.

do you run a boost controller? I dont know what changing turbo's would do but it should do anything by my logic, either with a controller or normal boost solenoid, coz 18psi is only 18psi. Pm Crunchy, he might be able to help ya

lol have you not changed these back over Nick? Def road legal.. but might be a bit hairy on a wet day down south! or the ice

woah yer.. your 22 wont like that at all.. at 1.5 bar your running about 22psi, 18psi is about all you want to run.. 1.2ish bar max. the VF's tend to eat compressor wheels running any more than 18psi consistently

we never got that far.. me thoughts normal committee team as it is now..? clarification?

sorry not up to me to decide (just faciliating discussion)... is committee/club decision - think this is posted in the other thread. Will adjust first post to reflect where its at... see first post