funkytown

just lift your manifold off, 4 bolts on each side. Given you have a front mount you dont have to remove your Topmount. The manifold will have a few things attached to it, but its not hard to put it back together. I have a samco type intake that bolts right up to the turbo - these are quite $$$ however. You can get a new stock one through armstrongs aswell at under a $100. if you get a twisted setup which adds momre $$$ then you can get away from routing the pipe under the manifold all together.. so many possibilities. I feel your pain. Getting my diagnosed on Friday

as per our PMs, mine will be coming out next week and off to be checked hopefully to avoid what happened to Swindog , getting alot of noise and very low power on my 23. Have you decided on a straight rebuild or a hybrid? or those other units you showed me?

see my pm.. i might look for a hybrid idea - P20 housing and vf34-38 compressor wheel for something different. some if the Garret's may bolt on (but dont quote me), either way your looking at lots of $$. you have a p20 housing already, shared on the 22/23

yes and those suckers are real $$$

I did a front rotor change, pads all round, and some high temp rated fluid for mega meet and oh the difference. Didnt run out of brakes anywhere on the track.. Went with Zinollei S12 rotors and their Sp500 pads.. they are a good combo.. Not bagging others, its just what ive used and i really like them. They are giving Clubsubbers 15% discount as well. and yes letting them cool is a good idea, and never stop straight away and pull up the hand brake - something i learnt the hard way. Dumb i know but i just didnt know at the time. (you see a lot of guys pushing their cars a few feet after a few hot laps) - this stops the heat building up in any one spot on the rotors..

So i got to test out my new brakes and 888's combo at Mega meet.. Soooo much better than stock, alot less understerry. Think Adjusties, rear swaybar and rear strut brace will be on the cards, after seeing some of the other GF8's there.

have a vague idea about adjusties but what about the cost of sway bar (and the links i think your tallking about)? And also cost of nolathane bushes?

I think that particular peice is the TPS or trottle position sensor.. but just under that yes

oh sorry - its whats in my sig.. a 97 sti gf8, it has tien super low springs on standard struts... i get bad roll and understeer on the track. I would like to fix that roll at some point... so im guessing adjustables are going to be on the cards first then? Honestly i dont know anything about them, basically i want something thats stiffer on the track, but feels like my super lows now so i can drive it on the road. Possible? I don't know.

arr i have good allignment already.. the superlows were just given to me, and they werent intended to give "improved handling" that im thinking about above

its a toyota camry

Brieft history of car has engine mods to the tune of more than 200kw atw's have some nice 17" R888's to run on, has some nice brand spankers slotted rotors and new pads all round also runs on super low tien springs - but thats all suspension wise. Car is going to get a bit of track work - and on its maiden voyage out (although enormous fun) i ended up doing enormous power sledging. My question is where to start? which bits to go for? the costs? and the gains assosiated with each. i've heard of lots of different mods - but don't really understand each and want to start a learning journey to understand suspension / handling better. yes i should have done susp first, but hey my car is where it is and I'm not having that debate here.

a standard upgrade that people do is turbo to something like a vf23, yellow injectors, Orange AFM, and the v3/4 (depending on year of fozzy) Ecu. All are straight swap and recommended to be done alll at once.

This topic has been moved to Motor & Turbo. [iurl]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=1099.0[/iurl]

nope - very unlikely. your ecu is just reacting to something not reading correctly in the engine. clearing codes will allow a new one to be read from faulty equipment most likely if you didnt fix it with your efforts mentioned in first post.

This topic has been moved to paid members

yup reset it... guessing you know how reading the other posts.. then see if it does it again. you might have a dead AFM.. *waits for techy boys to arrive*

I know when you were going round back track the other weekend your inside rears were coming well off the ground - check out the other club events for photo proof - so you've not even got all them down on the deck to be giving you traction in the rear.

ermm wasnt the last subaru that was in WRC a hatch? and completely irrelevant - arent all over manufactors usng hatchs as well?

have sorted pl0x and not_a_foz i think. Your taking your car eh Yvonne? - might hit you up is space is pushed. Should be ok atm.

I have owned a 97 GTB, and now own a 97 STI hatch.. so near as you can get to the same I love the GTB for the same drivability, and ease to cart round town on the primary turbo. I love the GTB sound more than the REX, and i dearly miss the boot space of my GTB. The VOD did get annoying on spirited drives as cornering always took that little extra VOD calculation. It was a superb car in every way. I felt the GTB was a good hadler but become apparant that it understeered quite a bit more on turn in that my REX... My STI now - is purely more frantic. Its a harder car to dordle round town in, and suspension is harsher. However all comes into its own when you take it on spirited campaigns in the para para's or the like. It draws more attention that my GTB did. My rex is also far easier to modify, and is generally more fun. wish i had a slightly big boot space in my REX. The ride was more comfortable in my GTB over longer trips and its likely that some time in the future when i have a family i will revert back to the bigger of the two sisters. The GTB i agree felt like a better built car - slight more padded doors. seats / the aircon console / spotlights etc etc. They are just built like that on prupose to suit their intended market imo.

yup the same - same engine, turbo and ecu - afaik maybe slightly heavier but minimal difference

PM'd

since when exactly... if we are talking v3 onwards (as i cant comment for 1/2) im sure the GF's do just the same amount as GC's, certainly my GF (read: hatchback (for the smart buggers)) keeps up all the spec sheets i have seen says that GF's come out with the full 206kw at the engine.. I think its well understood that Auto's have less, in the order of 180 - 190kws depending on the model and year

well for a start , v3 and v4 injectors are the same, they are yellow 440cc, and v5 / 6 are the same, and also 440cc (yellow). I think 3/4 and 5/6 are different though in shape or size (can be corrected). greys are 380cc and came on the V1 / 2 STI