Koom

A few of the Hydraulic hose places around ChCh have various sizes of vacuum hose in stock. Coloured or plain old black. Or else Edge Performance or Sylvester Performance are good places to go to get that type of thing. Also you can drool over the V8 bits and pieces while there Catch can on your engine should have the two breathers off the heads and a single breather off the rear of the crankcase. If you go single, a TD05-16g would go pretty well, or else any of the STI turbos i.e. vf23, vf24, vf30 or use the slightly bigger vf22. Will only get you to 200-230kw in most cases. You also keep mentioning cheap, that wont get you to 400hp sorry. Maybe for a week at a time between rebuilds. Better off if you want 400hp, find out exactly what it takes and go for it all in one go. Also as you have the RSB, the swap to single turbo ECU is pretty simple. Theres threads in here somewhere telling you how.

You guys really need to get back to the topic. The heads off the EJ20R where pretty good in their day. The late model heads with AVCS and shimless lifters are much better though. Just look at the sort of power that people are getting out of near stock Spec C engines to see that the late model heads flow rather well.

For other hoses maybe, but you do not want to block that bottom solenoid hose off!

Actually the guard to hub distance is used because it stays the same no matter what wheels you put on it. The distance from the guard to the ground or undercarriage to the ground would be dramatically reduced though.

You also get stung by Import Duty when it arrives and then compliancing costs. Could possibly import some older "Special Interest" vehicles but it sounds like a bit of a lottery on whether it goes through or not. Think there's also been a recent change so that vehicles over 20 years old can be imported without needing to meet the frontal impact standards and possibly the emmissions tests. i.e. 1988 or older.

The +/- 5% is to accomodate changes in the car are isn't really supposed to be for you to play round with the height settings. Still don't understand why you'd want it certed at one height and then lower it further to drive round with everyday? Just set it at the right height to start off with. As for fitting it yourself, only if you're confident with being able to get it to a level of reasonable safety. I had to fix a friends car last week after her boyfriend and a mate "sacked it on its ass" only to have two tyres get complete chewed to bits by rubbing on the springs. Also one of the struts was slowly lowering itself so that it wrecked a cv boot as wasn't far off rubbing on the joint itself all because nothing had been tightened up properly. They'd also left the car with backwards rake angle i.e. rear lower than front. Nothing was level anyway. One of these guys owns a well known show car and claims to know what he's on about too :

+1 So is the knock sensor anywhere near the cylinders now? Don't understand where it is by your description. Just start by pulling off the intercooler and get in there to where the sensor should be!

Not if you get the correct profile tyre so then your outer circumference doesn't change. Also +1 on getting the adjustables fitted by a suspension expert. They should know what they're doing, rather than someone having a random guess at fitting it all up correctly. [quote name='Swindog said: 345mm is about normal measurement and should pass on a cert. That will give you the +/- 5% to 320mm which would put it right on the tyre. If you want the car sitting down that low, why don't you set it up like that in the first place and get it certed at that height? Rather than getting it all checked and certed, then purposely changing the settings afterwards??

I bet it would have impressed the sweaty fanboi's though!!

I WANT IT!!!

Damn them!! My plan B is usually to fill up in Mana (+1 for Macca's) or a bit further up in somewhere like Paraparaumu. Damn RS comes up about 40-50kms short of getting from BP in Blenheim to my parents house. Seems like Macca's plan for world domination during the recession is slowly coming to fruition

Those pics look like you're now sucking in warm, engine bay air as well as air from in behind the guard. Should really blank off that hole so that the airbox is only fed from in the guard.

You still in Dannevirke? I neeed them to have 98 there! Can't make it from Wellington to Hawkes Bay on a tank!

I know you can but felt there's no point. For $250 scored heads that are better and came complete with better cams. Can't really beat that

Yeah I agree with that! I gave up eventually and put GTB heads in it. Much betterer.

Your problem possibly stems from the differing top hats. If the centre of the strut is off its intended position, then you will end up with screwy camber. I've put a picture below which I think is the one that shows the difference between GC8 and BC5 rear top mounts (when I originally made it I didn't label anything or name it with any description, so I'm guessing its the right one as I don't have any tophats close by to compare). In my drawing, the centres are concentric yet I haven't measure up the distances to the respective centres on the BC5 or GC8 tophats so one of them may have the centre offset (i.e. imagine if the studs at the top of the drawing where lined up, then the centre on one tophat would move up about 5mm which would move the camber). We usually re-drill the tophats that came with the struts to fit the different chassis mounts. But also all the cars I have done this too have had adjustable lateral arms so then the camber could be adjusted to suit (may have increased the rear track by 5-10mm by doing so). I'd suggest doing what the others have mentioned and slot the top or bottom hole where the strut mounts to the hub. The top one gives quite a coarse adjustment (i.e. move ~1mm out and get ~1 degree difference) and the bottom one gives a tighter adjustment range (i.e. move ~1mm and get ~0.5 degree camber difference). With the amount of camber you've got, I'd slot the top holes about 1-2mm outwards and test and measure from there.

So then I pose the question to you, how do you know it was the Pro-Ma fixing the problem and not the regular oil changes? Did you ever start using it on an engine and it fixed a problem with long lasting effects? ANd then stop using it for the problem to return? My lifters kept dying after a while and replacing them made the problem go away. I haven't really got anything against the use of Pro-Ma, I just became cynical somewhere along the line of any oil additives. I may change my thoughts on this in the future, never know

If its a slight hesistation that goes away as soon as you give it a bit more throttle, it is possibly the 02 sensor. The ECU only uses the 02 when cruising for better economy and if you are accelerating, the ECU ignores it.

Its similar to snake oil But has pretty copper coloured bits in it. Personally I think you're better off changing your oil regularily and cleaning/replacing any dodgy lifters. It never seemed to help with my lifter issues back when I still had them. Its good for creating a placebo effect for the end user.

awww wicked! The system works

Just out of interest, why is something from 1989 lumped in with all the square stuff from 1981-1988??

Blown turbo? leaking oil into the intake and burning off as it goes through the engine. Depends entirely on what type of smoke it is really. Could be anything.

Big giant oil warning light and maybe a rev counter for when you're on the track Nothing else matters.

The only difference that I've noticed is between the Repco ones (made in Aussie) and the factory ones. The factory ones have a larger orifice so I'd guess they'd flow more but to be honest I haven't noticed any difference when using either type. You can also get aftermarket ones that run at a slightly lower temp.

But can you steal free internet from outside Starbucks with the displayLink?? haha. Personally, I just use my laptop to show the data I want off the Link every once in a while and not bother with having something permanent. Another option is to get an Innovate LM-2 and use that as a datalogger. If you have a newer car it can read and store stuff from the OBDII port aswell. Stores about 700 hours of data on one card.