Koom

Correct. Especially cause of the amount of boost and timing that the engine's can take with Force 10 over normal 98 octane fuel.

Semi-synthetic recommended as well?? Try mentioning an Oil brand as well, and then see how far the thread can go

Do you reckon its the same Mixja from the old forums??

Another option is to see if any of the dealers still have the EJ207 shortblocks for sale. Bolt your heads etc onto that and basically a new engine. Much better than secondhand which you have no idea what condition its in and like the others have said, could end up doing the same as your last motor.

Take it to a mechanic and get their opinion on the noise its making. Any decent mechanic will know straight away if its piston noise or valvetrain noise.

With both of those gearboxes shown, they have different top gears (as well as final drive ratios) and those 5th gear ratios are pretty tall. So it doesn't all come down to purely the final drive ratio, its a combination of fifth gear and final drive. You'll find that STI gearboxes are often around 0.825:1 for fifth and RA gearboxes are 0.972:1 The V5 STI's had a "taller" fifth gear than most STI's (i.e. 0.738:1) but also had a 4.444 final drive. To get your head around final drive ratio's etc, think that for a 4.444:1 ratio diff, the driveshaft has to rotate 4.444 times for the wheels to rotate once. For a 3.9:1, the driveshaft only has to rotate 3.9 times for the wheels to rotate once. So if everything else remains the same, the engine driving the 3.9:1 diff will be rotating less at the same speed. But Subaru don't always keep everything else the same and keep changing the gear ratio's on us.....

The early legacy auto's had 3.9. The RS was 4.111, GT 4.444. 3.9 is the "longest" ratio and 4.444 is "shortest"

Or get out the magnifying glass

Its doable without re-looming. Just need these pinout diagrams; Also need to add in a few wires for idle switch/map sensor area etc. From memory the AFM wiring needed to be swapped around. Its a pain in the ass job tho. And doesn't result in the greatest power etc. Better to find STI stuff and re-wire three of the ECU plugs to run of one of those.

Depending on what model you have, your engine may have the factory forged pistons which can rattle a bit when cold. Even if it doesn't, just let it warm up before pushing it i.e. drive slowly below 3k rpm until the water has been up to temp for at least 3-5 mins (by then the oil should also be up to temp too).

Agreed, GTB "should" have solid lifters (shim over bucket type). If they're rattling, there's something wrong that additives ain't gonna fix. Either that, or someone has chucked an old WRX/Legacy engine in there... Correct Not to hijack but I have a 98 BH TT with the engine EJ208DWAKE. Now this has always had a ticking coming from both banks for the 6,000 kms I have owned it. Would the lifters in be solid? A light ticking sound is relatively normal for a high mileage engine with solid lifters as its probably due to wear and the clearances getting larger over time. You can tell when a hydraulic lifter has packed a sad as it makes you car sound like a diesel and is very noticable. [quote name='Leese said: OK now this has got me a bit worried!! My lifters are noisy when the engine is cold - that's ok though isn't it?? (It's just cos the engines cold??) At a guess I'd say its more likely to be pistons that are rattling when cold. How many km's does your engine have on it? Not always the end of the world and again normally due to wear over time.

Agreed, GTB "should" have solid lifters (shim over bucket type). If they're rattling, there's something wrong that additives ain't gonna fix. Either that, or someone has chucked an old WRX/Legacy engine in there...

Tony @ RDL Performance 34 Klondyke Dr, Hornby Ph. 03 349 9615 Mob. 0274 695 425 or you can try Stu @ Stubaru (Him and Les at Autotech are the only other two guys I'd let touch my car in ChCh)

I've been over 1000 kph in a 747 with a tailwind in the jetstream between here and Aussie. Makes 655 kph look pissweak when there was a few hundred other people on the flying bus rather than just 2

If you jimmied up something so that both lefts fed back to the single stock regulator (which would need to be remotely mounted somewhere) it could work. The cost of all the extra fittings (and the extra work required) would just make it easier to use two right hand rails with reg's.

Imagine that......we agree on this Mr TheOtherWhiteGTB. I've used a VF24 on mine for this reason too rather than having to deal with the slightly larger VF22 or TD05. Hopefully it will move its ass reasonably quickly. A VF23 would give similar results, good power making potential and nice and responsive.

Could be worthwhile looking into. How comparable are the plugs? Or would you also need to find plugs from a V7+ loom? I think I know where there is a V7 ECU board available too.

A pod filter on a TT or a single turbo setup is going to have no differing effect on the AFM. It'll still vibrate and kill the AFM if you don't brace it. Also if you guys read up K&N's website, they will claim that they have done lots of testing and found that excess oil on the AFM will not effect its longevity or performance. (http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm) Also the belief that the oil from a POD filter is bad yet an oiled K&N filter in the factory airbox is ok seems a little misguided to me. A bit of info that one of the guys found out recently from our flowbench tech guy. He said that mildly dirty K&N filters actually flow more than freshly cleaned ones. He runs a car at the local speedway and only cleans his filter once every 6 events. Have heard similar evidence from rally guys aswell. (May not be applicable here)....but he also flow tested a standard EVO 8 filter and a replacement K&N filter for the same car. Had ~5% improvement in flow using the K&N. Haven't seen back to back tests on Subaru panel filters though. And whether this extra flow potential actually leads to more power would need to be tested in the particular application on a dyno (as Qwerty mentioned). As we're dealing with a restricted rally car, every bit less flow restriction could mean another hp or two ;D But as previously stated f you do put in a POD filter, it needs a cold air box, without it, its not going to be very beneficial at all (probably detremental).

Just fyi, the workshop that I knew of were looking into it for a local rotary workshop here in chch but it never went ahead as I think it was just cheaper to buy the crank pre-made from elsewhere. I had a bit of a look at that RX7 when I was up in Hamilton. Awesome piece of machinery and it sounded fantastic. Didn't get to see any of the GT1 races though

Na dive in head first and give it a go. Means you only have one person to blame when stuff doesn't go to plan but also you get to keep all the beer to yourself afterwards when it works out perfectly

Its pretty easy if you're mechanically inclined. First time I did one I was basically guessing but ended up finding a service manual for torque figures for the pulley bolts etc. (I have written the mini guide below for your information only, I may have forgotten stuff and its up to you to decide if you have the ability to do this job and its not my fault if something goes wrong. If you have a general idea of what you're doing, you'll spot anything I missed) Its easier if you remove the radiator, especially if the crank pulley doesn't want to come off easily. So 1) remove the bottom hose off the radiator and drop the fluid out into a big container. Then remove the top hose, unplug fan plugs and remove brackets at the top. Pull the radiator out. 2) To take the crank pulley off you need to stop the engine from turning. This can be done by putting the car in 4th and getting someone to stand on the brakes or by taking the starter motor off and using something to jam up the flywheel (I use an old big end bearing stuck in the teeth of the flywheel). 3) Now undo the crank pulley and remove it. It could be difficult to take off and won't rotate until you've moved it out far enough to clear the key that locates it on the crank. 4) Undo the three front covers from the engine ~10mm socket. Now you should be able to see the cambelt. 5) Put the crank pulley bolt back in and rotate the crank carefully (using a powerbar) till the mark on the toothed crank pulley lines up with the mark on the bracket above it. This makes it easier to line everything up when putting the new belt on. 6) Undo the bottom pulley that is just above the oil filter, this takes the tension off the belt and allows you to take the cambelt off. 7) Now you can take the cambelt off. Now is the time to remove all the pulleys/tensioner etc and check the bearings for any play. If you're doing a full 100k service then just replace them all including the water pump and thermostat (factory thermostat's have a different sized orifice from aftermarket too) 8 ) Bolt the new pulleys and tensioner in place (after replacing the waterpump). The torque for the bolts with 14mm heads is 39 Nm (29 ft-lb) [if you have the old style tensioner (better IMO) they have smaller bolts with 12mm heads and these are torqued to 25 Nm (19 ft-lb). LEAVE off the lower pulley (above the filter as this goes on after the belt) and LEAVE the pin in the tensioner! 9) Ensure the toothed crank pulley is lined up with the mark on the block. Then line up the double marks on each of the cam pulleys with each other. 10) To install the belt, you need to line up each of the marks on it with one of the marks on either the crank pulley or the cam pulleys. These MUST line up with every applicable mark or your timing will be out (by more than three teeth could cause valve to piston collision issues). The arrows on the cambelt show the direction of rotation which is clockwise when you're standing at the front of the car facing the motor (the direction arrow is normally printed on the belt next to the mark which lines up with the crank pulley). 11) Now that you have ensured that all the marks are lined up with the pulleys and the pulleys are located in the correct place (double marks facing each other) you can install the last pulley that goes just above the oil filter. This should tighten up the belt a wee bit. 12) Check the timing marks again and when you're 110% sure that all the marks line up and all the pulleys are tight, you can then remove the pin from the tensioner. The belt is now installed. I usually rotate the engine a bit with a powerbar to take up the slack in the cambelt and check that everything can turn easily. 13) Replace the front covers and the front pulley. The front pulley torque is 110 Nm (86 ft-lb). 14) Install the radiator and re-attach the hoses and fan plugs. Fill with coolant (run with the cap off when you initially start the engine to bleed the system). Should be good to go.

Nope, the 15psi spring sets the minimum boost that you can run. For example the factory wastegate actuators have ~7psi springs in them yet you can adjust the boost up past 20psi with a boost controller. Same thing with an external.

20b was in the Cosmo as stated. The Le Mans car used a Quad Rotor i.e. 26b. The custom made 20b that is made from 13b housings is refered to as a short 20b or something like that as the bits in between are shorter. A workshop where my old flatmate worked was looking into making two piece cranks for building the short 20b's as they could run better bearings with a two piece (or something like that). The quad rotors can be built with a custom crank too. There's a few of them around the country now. I think the Germans made a tank once that had 8 rotor engines powering it. Imagine the sound of that thing chasing you across a field back in WW2!!

Here's an ECU pinout that has the Early RS ECU pinouts on it. Just ignore the colours as I did that for doing single turbo conversions on BG5a's. Make sure you use the pinouts in the bordered boxes as those are the BC5 ones.

You sound quite confident about that statement. I've seen 2.5" and 3" downpipes with and without the blanking plate. Depends on who's made it. So in fact it may do :