Koom

Someone should start a pole. We all love a bit of a pole. Add a few names, others add in names that they think should be there etc etc. But should it really be left up to a majority/popularity vote like it has in the past?? I'm not sure that will work? I still think its a great suggestion to have mods separated from Reps. As having them intertwined left decent mods open to critism for being shite Reps and vice versa.

I agree fully with Turtle. You really have brought up some good points today. And CMPLSV has proved again why she shouldn't have ever had moderator rights. If someone (everyone?) is second guessing you every time you try to make a stand, then surely you must realise that the group didn't respect your decisions??

They all deserve one of these when they start waaaaaaaaaaa-ing; Then full IP ban if they delete their accounts while being little girls. Although it is quite funny when they return to check out their waaaaaa thread i.e. Rugged RS :

That sounds like a decent idea as I agree with Turtle, some of the people who are great at organising events and getting people together etc really shouldn't be given the power to moderate. Its been proven time and time again in the past year or so on here.

Does anyone these days actually have that thing called LOGIC?? There's fuel pissing out all over your hot engine, don't you think that that could possibly cause a problem?? Our education system is failing us miserably! And then to come on the internet and admit it kinda makes it even worse...... Some days I wish that Darwins Theory was alot more efficient.

Just as a note, the 440cc Yellows will flow ~520cc's at 100% Duty cycle and the 380cc Grey's flow ~460cc at 100%. Injectors are generally rated at 80% duty cycle (I'm guessing there's a standard to follow) but as far as testing at home goes its just simple to hook up at 100% duty cycle. There's calculators available on the intarwebs that will then let you figure out how much they flow at various duty cycles (i.e. at 80% to check against their rating). If you read up the American stuff (often from RC Engineering) their stuff is rated at 100% as the Yanks will refer to the early Yellow STI injectors as 550's and the Grey's as 440's.

More just putting it into the type of language that it appears he speaks The ringing in your ears for ages afterwards is a major pain though.

Ever driven more than 10kms in a car thats got straight cut gears?? Ear Muffs are necessary, and its sounds teh ghey

There doesn't appear to be anything written on the diode at all.

The bosch coils are reputed to be a good mod to fix the problem of cracked coils. I ran my factory RS coils for at least 18 months while running 1 Bar through the motor and never had a problem with misfiring though. I don't think they're that expensive to get hold of some half decent second hand ones. Just a bit of a lottery though.

Put a v8 in it? A really short ratio gearbox i.e. 4200 rpm @ 100kph NOS? I think nztintin had the most logical idea though.

There's alot of stuff that the factory put on the car that alot of people remove. The cars aren't designed purely as a performance vehicle. The accountants have their say on most aspects of the design so there is always areas that can be modified so the car suits my needs better. i.e. Subaru must have spent ages designing the suspension, I've removed half the factory bits and pieces are replaced with aftermarket or custom stuff.

And your reasoning for thinking that this is rough would be???? Just let the car cool down a bit before turning it off and the water line is completely redundant. So as mentioned by BC5RA, it removes a potential problem.

I just told you what the water lines are there for. Basically the same thing as a turbo timer. Allows idiots to turn off their engine while hot without causing too many issues. Relieves a bit of the heat soak that occurs on shutdown. We remove the water lines from the turbos on our rally cars too.

External fuel pump? Do you have one or just a normal intank one? It'll work for both types anyway as its just the electric motor gets worn out and struggles with the initial turnover. The pump in the wagon is in the same place as the sedan. Just need to pull the cover thing off the back of the rear seat and can get access to the fuel pump access panel just behind the rear passengers seat. (oval shaped cover panel)

All turbos will glow red under high load for long periods of time. Thats just the turbine side of it though. The only reason that the water lines are there is to cool down the bearing housing when you've shut the car down hot (which you should never do btw) and is really just a longevity/reliabilty for idiots which the car manufacturer has to assume everyone is when they design a car. The water cooling is in no way going to stop the turbine housing from glowing under long periods of high load.

The pump itself doesn't usually throw up a code when it dies. One way to test it is to give the top cover a tap with a hammer and then try to start it again. The wee electric motor will often start after a bit of a jolt. Its not really a long term fix but can get you going for a while. Once started they run as normal. I did this for a couple of weeks back when I was a rather poor student. The cover is in the boot behind the drivers side passenger. May have to pull the top cover off (4x phillips head screws) and tap the top of the fuel pump housing cover thingy.

I may be a twisted bastard at times, but this is what happens when I try to photoshop electrical components onto a pc board. You can kinda tell its been shooped by some of the pixels being out of place...

Hamsters gotten loose under the dash again? I have issues keeping the wee buggers under control at times. Does it look like someone has de-soldered your diode? Seems weird.

You could always mount your knock sensor to the firewall. But then its not going to do anything....... It needs to be where it is so that it can pick up noises from the cylinders. Can't really put it anywhere but where it currently lives. r.e. Coils. Does your car missfire? Or have you just spotted cracks while servicing?

Hope these help.

Fuel will still be flowing down the "dead leg" as there will be two openings i.e. injectors. I've always had a wee bit of apprehension about this setup (parallel) but it wouldn't really change much if it was a series setup with bigger fuel lines. Cause say for example that you had a parallel setup that tee'd back together into a single regulator, what guarantee is there that as the injectors start flowing more and more fuel that one leg won't take the majority of the flow (due to some sort of internal flow restriction due to the tee-piece or something) and still leave one leg to starve? As long as the fuel pump can supply enough flow to feed the demands of all four injectors and still have excess flow (at that pressure) that needs to be relieved then the system "should" work.

I actually had forgotten that it overboosted in the higher gears. (as you know I haven't been round and said hi in about a million years, really should some time soon ) I don't even remember what the exhaust is like on your car. Does it still just have the factory downpipe but then bigger rear section? Did NZEFI mention a cost for retune using just the factory ECU?

+1 Its not all about power. Especially on the track. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast and all that type of thing Driving skill will go alot further than just power. Whats wrong with the way it controls boost now? Is it holding steady or is the boost level fluctuating or does it taper off when it gets high up in the revs? Who are you scared of getting beaten by at the next trackday that makes you think you need more power anyway?? Go see if NZEFI can tune your HKS thingymajingy. A reflash of the standard ECU could cost a hell of alot for the first one to be able to buy the ECUTek rights (depends on who does the tuning etc).

Start using the last 3k rpm of the rev range, viola, more power