Koom

Speed stays the same but the 1.1:1 ratio gives a torque split at the centre cause that is what gear ratios do. From Power = torque x rpm. Power is the same in both directions, rpm going forward is higher than that going to the rear so the torque has to be lower if that equation is correct.

So you're saying that the front wheels spin 1.1 times for every 1 revolution of the rears........ If you run the same diff ratio front and rear with a 1.1:1 centre split, the clutch pack in the centre will give up pretty quickly cause it will be constantly slipping 8% when driving in a straight line.

I bought a random ty755* 5 speed that I think came from a Forester. It had a 1.1:1 gear in the transfer case so the front diff was a 4.444:1 and the rear was 4.111:1. Which equates to sfa difference in torque split i.e. ~8% more torque in the rear.

Took this bunch of stuff off the workbench and put it into the car Also blew up the charger for the rattle gun so using that sparingly! That should stop the driveshaft from bashing into the "safety loops".

Isn't that what arguing on the internet is all about? Both sides end up looking like idiots haha

What about that sc42 that someone was selling either here or one of the facebook pages. That's a bigger standard location turbo isn't it. I've always thought the 20g needs to be on a td06 turbine otherwise it's too mismatched for my liking. The td05/18g does sound like a good hybrid. WRXER's one performed well back in the day.

Why does the forum no longer warn you of new posts while you were typing........

Will be 2.5 bar absolute. So 1.5 bar gauge pressure.

Go bigger. Garrett gtx2876r or gtx30 something. Holset hrc35 from Steve Murch etc. The turbos you listed, plus your current one are well suited to 98/100 octane but won't flow enough for e85 to be worth swapping between any of them I reckon.

Zip ties. Everywhere. Also got halfway through making a bracket to hold the oil pressure sensor before I got hungry and gave in for the night. Still waiting for my overnight parts from Japan (2nd week, waiting on cusco engine mounts and a bunch of bushes that will hopefully stop my engine moving around so much!)

That's an excellent point (and obvious now I think about it).

Had a similar issue with a spare not fitting over 4 pots. Had to swap a tyre off the rear to the front, then spare went on the rear.

Haha possibly. Hope not though. Do you still have those numbers? I've forgotten about that sorry. Which had been the main problem with this project! Too long between getting various things done and I keep losing track of what I'd originally planned.

I can't remember (was probably 3 years ago when I timed then) and I also can't find my notebook. From memory I was aiming to have them at the stock timing. Had adjustable pulleys on it to make sure that I could get them balanced side to side. I do remember having to change the two on the drivers side, most likely due to everything having been machined, messing up the distance from one side to the other.

Can't remember what RAC was running. I think it may have been the same ones. Not sure if changing the cam timing could help it breathe more but the jump from 15psi to 19psi gives about the same power increase as the next jump from 19psi to 24psi. Might explore it one day but I doubt I'll be changing the cams any time soon. And yep, it's twin scroll now (controversially with just a single wastegate.....haha).

Got it delivered to my house after Spec Performance have been looking after it for me The blue line is my old setup with a td05 on a pretty basic motor (gtb heads). The green line was when I put on the Holset HX35 on that same motor and it had a single scroll up pipe feeding the twin scroll turbine. Very sluggish to come on boost and it just peaked and fell off quickly. Pretty happy with the outcome. It's no longer peaky and in need of a tonne of revs to get things happening. The boost comes on really fast and the torque feels like it holds nicely right through the much wider powerband. It's only got standard V3 STI RA cams which are apparently holding it back from making better power in the higher boost settings.

I reckon it was useful for the early side feed rails but for the later model ones (phase 2) and top feeds I'd guess that properly sized fuel lines run in series would be just as effective. The very early fuel rails forced the fuel to flow through each injector to get to the next, rather than being able to just flow past each injector relatively freely like a top feed rail will do. And yeah, the line lengths won't matter too much as the pressure is equal in both legs.

Do they have to be from a true limited edition run i.e. 22B? Or do all two door specials come under that dispensation?

www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicle/importing/

Yep, just put the great stick into the desired position and it will go into that gear. No matter what. But allows for no need to swap left foot from brake to clutch to downshift. Just brake and basically smash down through the gears as needed. Much smoother for weight transfer etc as a result. Then it allows the driver to use constant(ish) throttle and regulate with the brake mid-corner instead of using one or the other. Sequential was another step up again as flat shifting on the up shift helped speed up that side of things too and less chance of hitting the wrong gear on the downshift.

Sounds like the bolt has stripped the thread off half the shaft. Could try cutting the head off and pushing the left overs into the chassis rail. Then hopefully the thread on the nut isn't completely poked and can be saved with a thread chaser or a tap. They're a fine thread that not many places round here seem to deal with. If you do this and just try another bolt in the hole, take extreme care to not destroy what remains of the thread. If it gets tight, take it out and fix the thread before putting a bolt in.

A dog box is also hugely beneficial. I've sat with drivers who were left foot braking with standard gearbox's and the dancing around on the pedals along with the split seconds of no braking as they swapped feet from braking to clutching and back to braking wasn't the best for the cars stability. With a dog box though, totally different and heaps faster.

The alloy v8's end up about the same weight as a 13b turbo setup according to the internet and the people who swap ls1's into rx7's.

Yep, that's correct. A holesaw is the only way to get access from inside the car. Dunno about the legality of doing so though.